Italy notes

Recent trip to Rome & Tuscany with an afternoon in Orvieto. Weather great (Tuscany is in a prolonged drought), sights great (Orvieto above all) and people generally very gracious.

We stayed Hotel Nazionale in Rome and Hotel Santa Maria Novella in Florence. Both were well located and fine for our purposes. La Chiusa, near Montepulciano was restful, hospitable and the views are spectacular.

We ate constantly and very well. Wine prices are a delight.

Here is the summary

Rome

Highly recommended
La Tavernaccia da Bruno (life altering lasagna)
Retrobottega (Rome Parisian style)
Armando al Pantheon (amazing this place is so good given location)
Fatamorgana Gelateria (2nd best of the trip)
Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fà (Cantillon on tap! & a fine Italian DIPA)
Colline Emiliane (oh the pasta and nice Lambrusco choices)

Recommended
Pizzeria Emma (fabulous toppings but I was underwhelmed by crust/nice wine list)
Casa Bleve (enoteca(?) a bit full lof itself - maybe best octopus ever)
Pizzarium Bonci - a nice experience but below expectations
Trattoria Cesare al Casaletto - not the most welcoming - outstanding carbonara)
Roscioli Caffé Pasticceria (they are building an empire)
Cafffé Camerino (very good caffé)
Forno Boccione (Kosher bakery in time warp. Unfriendly but fine crostone)

Tuscany & Umbria (Florence unless indicated)

Highly Recommended
Osteria Acquacheta (Montepulciano) (communal tables, lots of locals, excellent & cheap)
Coquinarius (enoteca, great list, prices and best salumi/prosciutto of trip. Radikon x 2!)
Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori (fun, soulful food but wine list out suburban US Italian joint)
Perche’ No (best gelati of trip. Pistachios don’t taste this good out of the shell)
Sandwichic (great panini. These guys are are dedicated)
Osteria dell Enoteca (newish osteria by Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina folks. Fine bistecca and well curated wine list (duh!)
Ditta Artiginale (seriously good coffe - Italian or 3rd wave)

Recommended
Gastronomia Aronne (Orvieto) (nice porchetta and wine choices)
Gelateria Il Gelato di Pasqualetti (Orvieto) (much better than expected)
Trattoria da Fiorella (Pienza) (also much better than expected)
Dolceforte (chocolate shop - Amedei at good prices!)
Todo Modo (really fun wine bar in the back of a bookshop. Nice selection of wines)

Many thanks for posting this Greg - I’m sure of use to travellers heading over there.

In addition to the wine prices being a delight in restaurants, that also extends very well to the enoteche, with often an interesting range by the glass, for a fair price, with invariably anything from a few nibbles to a plate of buffet style food to accompany each glass. They do wine very well there.

Great post Greg. Thanks!

Thanks for the report Greg - heading back in May so will come in handy.

Just had dinner at Osteria Acquacheta tonight. That place and this town are ridiculously charming. You go to Rome and thinks it’s charming, then you come here… Mama Mia…

The hill towns of Tuscany are magical

Greg
the website for Osteria Acquacheta mentions The Tavern rules but then doesn’t show any. Looks like one glass for water and wine and you sit at communal tables. Also looks like you can bring wine. The reviews look great. Did you try the Bistecca ?



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The place is a blast. Communal tables and we have had wonderful encounters with everyone with who we were seated.

Didn’t know about the corkage. Thanks for alerting. Glasses are very modest as you can see. The women in the photo ordered house wine and were not given separate glasses (had to alternate water and wine). The tiny wine selection is displayed on the wall. Each time we have ordered the only Vino Nobile Riserva (different each time and top producers for about 40 or 45€).

The steak is good but US beef is better imo. Pastas are fine and the peasant dishes and offal shine.

Two seatings and everyone gathers outside until they call names. Miss your call and lose your table. Go and enjoy!

Thanks Greg !

You get a glass for water and a glass for wine. They’re nearly identical. The house wine is really cheap — like 8 euros a liter (but I liked it). They have a small corkage charge maybe 1.5 euros per person drinking. They give proper glasses if you buy a bottle. Communal tables. I loved it. Was one of my favorite meals in Italy.