I was hoping to mine some of the WB community knowledge. I am stopping in Nice for a couple days prior to my annual pilgrimage to the Langhe in late April- early May of next year. I am completely unfamiliar with the city and was wondering what part of town I should stay in. I will be traveling alone and will likely rent an apartment. I would like to see the sea and walk to restaurants, cafes etc. Old Town seems very interesting to me, but I know next to nothing. I am not a night owl and am way past the bar scene stage in life. Also, any restaurant rec’s would be appreciated for anything from delicious casual bistro to Michelin level food.
Also, I am flying into Nice, but do not have to stay in Nice, and if I would be better served driving east some and staying somewhere en route to the Langhe, I am open to any recs of places to stay on the sea.
Was in Nice in April. We stayed here: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/28331718?source_impression_id=p3_1570900071_js1YvOn3JYuDgoWA
We had dinner at Maido, a japanese inspired place, very good. Also visited La Part des Anges, a very nice wine bar with cheese and charcuterie. They have a bistro down the street that is also excellent. http://lapartdesanges-nice.com. Nice is avery walkable city. If you want quiet, stay away from the old town and major streets in the city proper.
It really depends on what you want. You basically have the entire south of France in to Italy within an easy drive from Nice. There are beautiful hill towns, you can stay on or near the sea or you can stay in a city. An Apartment for 3 days doesn’t seem like it would be worth the hassle. If you are traveling solo maybe move around a bit.
Todd, as a lad (age 8 or 9) I was spoiled by a week at the Hotel Negresco with the family…including Bastille Day. Quite the experience. I’ll never forget the dining, the cheese cart, the multi-course meals, the wait staff choreography…the waiter carefully peeling a peach like a surgeon, etc… I believe there’s still a 2 star Michelin restaurant inside the hotel. The Mediterranean just across the street. It was a splurge 50 years ago…but what a place. We took side trips to Monaco and the local park/mountains. Seems like the hotel is still operational and just as over the top.
Sad to say that the negresco hasn’t even had a lick of paint, let alone any kind of serious refurb in the 50 years since you were last there. Laughably awful rooms there now.
Todd, we split our time between California and our apartment in Nice. I’d recommend you try something in Nice on the Promenade des Anglais, preferably at the 4th or higher floors to get above the street traffic and noise. We’re on the 100 block in the area called Magnan (“may-yawn”). I do see Airbnb signs here and there. It is a walking town with an excellent new tram. You can take the tram from Terminal 2 all the way down to the port with Old Town nearby. I wouldn’t worry about restaurant choices. Take a walk to Old Town and pick a sidewalk cafe or restaurant. For a stunning night out, take an Uber to the haut of Cagnes-sur-mer. It’s a hilltop of very old architecture and cobblestone with beautiful views and good eats and its quiet. Arrive an hour before and walk the small town. We like dining at Restaurant Les Baux there, even though the wine list is weak. If you have time to get on the train in Nice, then a trip to Menton or over to Ventimiglia is quick. Menton another beautiful seaside town and Ventimiglia in Italy with a market full of pasta, cheese… that we fly back to California (no meat per customs). They are an hour from Nice and easy day trip on the train that travels right along the edge of the sea. One final piece of advice is pick pockets are very active there, especially on the tram as there is a group of five young girls, twice I have stopped them from picking tourists when we we there last month. We may be there when you are. PM me and you can come over and we’ll open a barolo or…
ive been to the cote d’azur twice in the last four years. it’s become one of my wife and my favorite places to visit. first time we stayed in menton…about 35 minutes east of nice and right by the italian border. we LOVE menton but i actually found it to be a bit further out than I prefer.
we visited nice just this past september and stayed in eze above cap d’ail…about 15 minutes up the mountain from nice. we found it perfect as a location for a few days in the area. we went to beach each day in st jean cap ferrat and cap d’ail…and then drove into nice for dinner most nights.
unless you are a city type, id opt to stay in another town…eze, st jean cap ferrat, roquebrune cap martin, villefranche sur mer…anything except monaco. we avoid monaco like the plague.
i HIGHLY recommend you have a car if you are staying out side of nice. drive up the hills to gorbio and have lunch at le beausejour in the tiny town square, have seafood at the bar at peixes in old town nice, have dinner at Jan in Nice (EXCELLENT 1* from a south african chef) and just enjoy the amazing area.
lastly, we had dinner at mirazur in 2015 and our favorite part was the view and the bread. and that was before the prices skyrocketed. food is fine but really not as memorable as the accolades would lead you to believe.
With just 2 days stay and looking to walk to many restaurants, markets, sights, and still be within very close/walking proximity to the sea/beach, I suggest staying in Nice. Stay close to the Promenade.
Staying at Eze (where we stayed at during our last visit), or at other small towns up in the mountains, provides much less options on dining and with no access to the sea/beach, especially if you don’t have a car. Uber and cabs would be limited and, I suspect, would cost a lot just to go anywhere. Even if you have a car, going to the beaches, or big cities like Nice, would have you driving around for quite a bit just to locate available parking.
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