Planning a trip to Argentina

Hello all. I did a quick search and there are only a couple of Argentina related threads on the forums so I figured I would start a new one to generate some discussion. We are planning to go to Argentina (likely in April) and wanted to get some thoughts from anyone who has traveled there. It looks like you have to fly in and out of Buenos Aires but do you consider BA a must see aspect of Argentina? We definitely plan to visit Mendoza and the surrounding areas more towards the south of Argentina for more of the outdoor parks/nature related destinations. I am wondering whether we should just land in BA and immediately board a smaller plane to travel directly to Mendoza and then base our trip from there or to spend 2 nights in BA at either the beginning or end of the trip before heading back home.

Likely looking at 10 days overall for this trip. Any and all recs are welcome as we are just in the initial stages of trip planning and I know from experience that folks on here tend to have some great suggestions.

Thanks in advance!

If headed to Mendoza, you’ll have to fly out of the local city airport, not EZE.

As for EZE, be on guard at all times. The scammers, crooks, and pickpockets have everything worked out to a science. On our first day, an older couple told us how they were scammed out of their camera. As for us, savy New Yorkers, we almost got scammed with the bird shit ruse. After getting ‘dumped’ on, a husband/wife team were wiping us down, all the while trying to get my wallet and into my wifes zippered bag. We were lucky. We had our wits about what was happening.
Caution. While I’d head back to Mendoza, we won’t return to EZE.

Try to get to Iguazu Falls - Wikipedia

if you stay in BA, there’s a huge outdoor antique market in the old part of town, I think each Sunday. Don’t miss this - it’s spectacular stuff. BA in general is a wonderful city with lots of good stuff, so worth checking out.

It’s a few years ago now, but I probably spent several days in Buenos Aires all up and loved it. From memory, the international airport was much further out that the domestic airport and as I spent about a month in Chile and Argentina, I flew in and out of the airport a few times and never got more North than Cordoba. You could easily spend a few days in BA.
Ultimately, it depends on what your priorities are and what else you want to see. Argentina is a pretty big country so if you are aiming to go to a few different places you’ll eat up some time travelling. 10 days isn’t enough to see too much so you will need to pick your spots.
I did have a couple of issues being passed fake bank notes as change in BA and La Boca in particular. I don’t know if that’s a problem that still exists.

A few nights in BA is a great idea. It is a world class city, kirchnerismo aside. Mendoza and Salta/Cafayate are great that time of year. It will be cold in the South (March is a better month to visit). I would say that 10 days for BA/Mendoza/the South is pushing it but a 4/4/2 night plan is doable. Just remember: any flights to most domestic locations will require you to go in and out of Aeroparque (AEP). AEP is easy to get to if you decide to stay in Recoleta or certain parts of Palermo.

In all honesty, I would stick with the wine regions versus heading South (San Martin de los Andes/El Calafate), as that region deserves at least a week of your time.

Disclaimer: I lived in BA.

Hi Rich - you may have already read my post here from a couple years back 10 Days in Argentina - Buenos Aires and Mendoza (Long) - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers but wanted to make sure you saw the link in case you hadn’t, as it sounds like you’re going at a similar timeframe/have a similar agenda as we did.

In short I’d think that 2 full days in BA is good for an overview, getting a couple good meals (don’t miss checking out the Puerta Cerradas) and then head on out to wine country, where you could easily do a full week.

Don’t hesitate to let me know if you have any other questions!

Buenos Dias Rich,
Fair warning! Be careful what you ask for. Long read ahead.

As Dan Hammer wrote, international flights arrive and depart from Ministro Pistarini International Airport (EZE). Once in Argentina, your flights will most likely originate from and return to Jorge Newbery Airfield (AEP). Depending on traffic, those airports are over an hour apart so I wouldn’t plan on arriving EZE and immediately taking a taxi or car service to AEP. There are taxi/car service booths in the terminals at EZE and AEP where you can arrange your ride. You will prepay at that time.

When we go to Argentina, we go to our Airbnb/Hotel from the airport. We use BA as the hub of our travels often times renting an Airbnb for the entire time because they are very inexpensive compared to hotels. We leave what we don’t need to carry in the apartment when we take our side trips. At a minimum we recommend a minimum stay 1 - 2 nights in Buenos Aires at the beginning, 1 – 2 nights in the middle, and 1 – 2 nights at the end of each trip. We have always stayed longer. Buenos Aires is a large city, population about 3 million with some fascinating neighborhoods that reflect the ethnicity of the Europeans that settled in Argentina. You should explore BA and the best way to explore it is on foot with an experienced and knowledgeable guide. My wife and I highly recommend Marcelo Mansilla. He knows BA and its history exceptionally well. If you want to see and understand BA, Marcelo is the man to hire assuming he is available. He is often booked. He speaks English fluently. His rates are reasonable. You will do a lot of walking and take public transportation (bus/taxi) when necessary or you feel the need. You will pay for that. It isn’t in his fee. https://www.ciceroneba.com.ar/.

We recommend at least two full days of walking tours in BA. The neighborhoods of Palermo (where we typically stay), Recoleta (where the famous Recoleta Cemetery is located), Puerto Madero, San Telmo, and La Boca are a short list of neighborhoods to visit. There are others depending on available time. La Boca is a short, daytime visit only. It is a working-class neighborhood and not considered safe for a nighttime visit. It is kitschy but fine in the daytime. We typically split our walking tours among our arrival, mid-point, and departure stays. Adam Frisch mentioned an antique market. He is no doubt talking about the Feria de San Telmo which does take place between 10am – 4pm on Sundays weather permitting. Weather is mild and accommodating in April. The market is not limited to antiques. San Telmo is one of the oldest neighborhoods in BA and it is the center of the antique and silver trade.

Mendoza is on every wine lovers list. It is a vast wine area. The primary regions are Maipu Valley, Lujan de Cuyo, and Uco Valley. It takes a minimum of two days to visit all three regions but you really should allow three full days to tour. Logistical planning and finding the wineries in this vast area is a challenge. We hire an experienced guide and driver for our tours. No driving drunk or getting lost for us. I recommend Peter Cubillos, https://peterwinetours.com/. Peter knows wine. He has worked in wineries doing everything from scrubbing out concrete tanks, working in the laboratory, and making wine. He is fluent in English. I prefer to visit smaller producers. Before each trip, I send Peter a list of wineries that I think I want to visit. Sometimes he suggests changes based on his experience, availability, and other factors. We visit three wineries per day. The last visit is at a winery where we have a multi-course lunch paired with the wines of that winery. We typically stay 3 nights in an Airbnb in the city of Mendoza. On the last tour day, we take our luggage with us and Peter’s driver drops us at the airport to catch our flight back to BA.

Dan Hammer recommended that you try to get to Iguazú Falls or Iguaçu Falls Iguazu Falls - Wikipedia. He is absolutely correct. Do not go all the way to Argentina and miss them. It is easier and a shorter flight to fly to the Argentine side of the falls (IGR). There are tour operators but we have never used them. I would plan on two nights because you really should see both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of the falls. The views are very different. The Brazilian side is better organized. If you are familiar with the Belmond brand, they have a hotel in the park on the Brazilian side. Take a look at their homepage if for no other reason than to see what the Brazilian side of the falls looks like. Hotel das Cataratas, A Belmond Hotel | Hotel Beside Iguazu Falls. If you fly to IGR on the Argentinian side, there are cars for hire than can take you to the Brazilian side and the park entrance. From there it is easy. Just remember you will need your passport to cross back and forth over the border. You can pay the park entrance with a credit card.

If you have more time available, I recommend you visit Uruguay while in BA. It is just across the very wide Rio Plata. It is a 2 ½ hour ferry ride from the ferry port to Montevideo where an overnight stay is warranted. You could visit a winery or two while there. Bodegas Carrau and Bodega Bouza are close by. You will find some great Tannat and Tannat blends available. For a day trip, you could take the 1 ¼ hour ferry ride from BA to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. It has a picturesque historic quarter that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a fun to explore the quarter. Don’t forget your passports.

Money: Our last trip to Argentina was in 2017 but from what I hear, things have not changed much. ATMs in Argentina have a very low maximum that can be withdrawn and it varies between ATMs. Typically, you might be able to get the Peso equivalent of $100 USD maybe a little more but it will cost you $10 - $15 in service charges to get it. Not all ATMs in Argentina are connected to the international system so finding one that will work is a matter of luck.

Miscellaneous:

  1. Use a credit card whenever possible.
    a. When leaving a tip at a restaurant or anywhere else, leave it in cash (Pesos or USD equivalent) on the table. Many POS systems in Argentina do not accommodate tips. Large international hotels are an exception.
    The underground economy is hard at work in Argentina.
  2. Take new, clean, crisp, unmarked $100 USD bills that have not been torn or dog-eared. Many supermarkets and mid-sized to large restaurants will accept USD and return Pesos in change. Just know the exchange
    rate they are offering. We usually went to a local Supermercados Coto supermarket, bought a bottle of water or some other small item, gave them a $100 bill and got our change in Pesos. We found the exchange
    rate to be fair and the process convenient. At other times, we paid for restaurant meals with USD and received Pesos in change. However, we used our credit cards whenever we could.
  3. In all large cities and wherever tourists are gathering anywhere in the world there is petty theft and mugging. Never ever wear any fancy jewelry or watches. Don’t carry high dollar designer goods (Louis Vuitton)
    etc. Never let anyone see a wad of money. Discreetly remove the amount you might need in advance. Keep your phone close. Extending your arm to take a selfie could cost you your telephone or worse. iPhones
    and other phones are very expensive in Argentina and they are the number one thing stolen.
  4. Dan Hammer mentioned scammers. While not as sophisticated as the ones in Paris, they are present. Being aware of your surroundings, scanning the area, and remaining alert are necessary in any large city or
    tourist area.
  5. Taxis, Uber, and car services are plentiful in BA. If you decide to use Marcelo Mansilla, he can also arrange car services for you. He does not receive a fee for doing so. He arranged all of our trips to and from the
    airports.
  6. Just for fun, if you are a coffee drinker, you need to understand what to order in Argentina. It is different.
    Decoding the Argentine coffee menu - G Adventures

¡Ten un viaje maravilloso!

Michael

Hello,

My late husband and I covered all of argentina for our Honeymoon in 2014 in April/May. I would recommend a few days in BA to explore the sights and have a wonderful steak dinner. I would recommend you stay mostly in Mendoza as there are several regions within Mendoza to explore each day. We had a private guide the entire time and it was reasonable. Very attentive and accommodating to our high maintenance needs. After the first day, we explained that we don’t need a winery tour, we just want to enjoy the wines. When you’ve seen one winery, you’ve seen them all. The owner is David Olmedo, you can reach him here: davidwinetours@hotmail.com. Again, I can’t emphasize enough how wonderful having a private driver was. We stayed at a B&B but not 100% sure I’d recommend it since I ended up having an allergic reaction to some insect b/c they left the windows open in our room.

I hope this helps!!
Cheers!

Hey Rich -

My wife and I just got back from a week of wine tasting in Mendoza. We had a blast. I wrote up some tips/thoughts on wine in a separate post, in case you’re interested. You can find it in this forum or here’s the link: Mendoza: 8 pieces of advice, and thoughts on wine too! - Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum - WineBerserkers

Bob

+1 on spending 2 nights in BA, and +1 on the Sunday antiques market. Some really cool stuff on offer, and even if you don’t buy anything a fun way to spend a couple hours.

this is fantastic! Jen and I are planning a trip to Chile/Argentina for my 50th, in April of 2021 - this will be a very valuable thread!