Some context for the following:
This is my third visit to Barcelona in 2.5 years and second in 6 months. When I was here in June 2017/2019, the weather was way too hot to explore the city and environs, so I decided to come here in January when the weather is moderate and re-acquaint myself with the city. In the meanwhile, I made the acquaintance of a wine industry professional (Jason Axmith) who commutes between Toronto and Barcelona who kindly offered me his abode in Barcelona for my stay.
Uneventful flight on Jan 4th, got in with no issues - clearing immigration was trivial - no questions: scan my passport, stamp it and off I go.
First hiccup - I had booked a ride from Airport to the hotel I was staying at, but the driver was nowhere to be found. Like an idiot, I had not checked my SPAM folder for their response, and figured something went sideways, and took a taxi to the hotel. Of course, then I get a message 10 minutes later that the driver is waiting for me. Well, there goes a few Euros.
Check in and then lunch time - Went back to Coure where I had been before and where I was blown away last time I was there. Same bartender - recognized me, and gave me the English menu. She does not speak much English, so not much conversation. Food was just as good as before (June 2019), but it no longer blew me away. The Roasted Pineapple dessert was still as amazing, but having had that a couple of times last time, I was not as mesmerized. Menu had not changed at all - and that surprised me. Still excellent, but having had excellent, I now want more.
I met Jason at this local wine shop/cafe - Bodega Bonavista. Tiny place, great selection. The owner and proprietor named Mark was super nice, not much English, but welcomed me all the same. Being introduced by Jason as “mi Amigo” got me some cred, but when I mentioned that I had been to BISAvis Tavern last visit, got me even more credibility. Turns out the chef from there hangs out here on Fri/Sat during the day. Will be returning there soon 
Tripadvisor has some nice pics: https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d6560583-Reviews-Bodega_Bonavista-Barcelona_Catalonia.html#photos;aggregationId=101&albumid=101&filter=7&ff=134404105
Jason had made reservations at Gresca - where I had dinner two and a half years ago and was again amazed. This time around though, not so much. As I said of Coure: Still excellent, but having had excellent, I now want more. Still the best eggplant I’ve ever had, and there were also many many tiny clams filled with goodies as one of the dishes. The Beet Salad was amazing as was the Leeks and Burrata. The Burrata I have had here in Barcelona has been amazing - creamy, delicious and nothing like what we get in Ontario. This is true of the next night’s dinner at Monocrom (see below).
After dinner, we went our separate ways after planning a visit to a small winery in the tiny town of Puiggros the next day (Sunday).
In the following paragraphs, I have omitted the specifics of the winery and names to protect the innocent and their interests. It is unlikely that anyone here will ever come across these wines, so there is that ![[snort.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/b/bdc3944606213c4dca6c1169cf0a166c8bc4f8c9.gif "snort.gif"){kind=small}
Sunday morning the a wine maker friend picked me up at the hotel and drove me to the winery where he makes wine and rents cellar space. The drive was about 90 minutes and was quite pleasant. We went through some very thick fog on the way as well as on the return journey.
We tasted a vertical of his Garnatxa Blanca (2016 - very good, 2017, good and 2018 needs time), an orange wine that I did not care for, and a couple of reds. There was one from Priorat that was super big that I did not care for at all - all the elements may come together in about 15 years, but until then - Yikes!
Had lunch at a local restaurant - nice, nothing to write home about. The owner of the winery where my friend makes his wine sent over a bottle of his own making - a red that was awful. Well, at least he was not at the table or the restaurant which saved us all the embarrassment of saying what we thought of it.
After returning back to the city, after a nap Jason and I headed over one of his friends’ restaurant called Monocrom. This is a small place (about 30 seats with a small bar), hidden gem that only locals know of - and met the owners: a brother and sister team. We were there on Sunday Jan 5 which was the Three Kings holiday which is a major holiday here somewhat like Christmas Eve. Except for me, all the tables were occupied by local families celebrating the festival. Very charming and and enjoyable experience.
Very nice and long wine list - mostly local wines, but well chosen. We had a few snacks, and some wine and since he was leaving for Toronto the next day, we both decided to knock it off early.
Monday morning was a late breakfast at the hotel, caught up on work and a nap. Then I made my way over to Pau Claris 190 - a restaurant I discovered on Tripadvisor of all places two and a half years ago. That was when I had the best Turbot ever - and met Chef Raphael and his partner Lizbeth. I went back there during the previous visit in June 2019, and felt a little more comfortable - there was a dish that was not satisfactory and I mentioned it. They remade it and the chef came out and introduced himself and presented it. I also had gone there with a friend who is a vegan and they took very good care of us.
So of course, I went back - this past Monday was a major holiday in Spain, so there was only other guest besides yours truly. They recognized me when I walked in and had a big smile and hugs all around. We chatted for a while and the shy person that I am, I made known my preferences for smaller portions and other things. Of course, the chef sent out a huge salad of which I would consume a third. Finally, the pasta dish was of perfect portion with some extra shrimp with a bit of heat and absolutely scrumptious. Washed it all down with two half bottles of Perrier Jouet Grand Brut.
Once the service was done, I ended up having a few drinks with the Raphael and Lizbeth. I was invited to go back on the 24th for chef’s birthday, but since I am leaving that day, I will return on the 23rd for a tasting menu and a few drinks with them both after service.
Also, my sister had requested that I get her some Spanish Saffron of high quality (like I know what it means) - and in a moment of inspiration, I asked Raphael where I can get some. He brings out a brand new sealed container of 8g of Saffron and says “here you go” and he charged me his cost. Same supplier who used to supply El Bulli in those days…so I’m pretty sure it is of the highest quality.
Tuesday I met up with a friend I met here on my first visit, and since she is a vegan, she chose a Mexican Vegan restaurant (Gallo Santo) a few doors over from where I’m staying. I am always skeptical of vegan restaurants - but whatever these folks are doing, they are GOOD! ![[welldone.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/f/fc9709a841aa9379fd892a9cf0b535b05f473b86.gif "[welldone.gif]"){kind=small}
their vegan “chicken” - both texture/taste was spot on. Had the Fajita’s which I inhaled - very, very good - the flavours were spot on, the texture of the vegetables etc. Yummmy! ![[winner.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/07ec25c9fd71159fe15d7f1ba5fad64e91238d0e.gif "winner"){kind=small}
Back in June I had dinner at Xerta (1 Michelin Star), that was a wonderful experience, and I decided to go back. Well, it was a bit of a disappointment.
Evening started off less than optimally - the sommelier that I got along with was unfortunately off tonight as he is sick.
The other staff recognized me - and I got the same table/seat as last time (I’m nothing if not a creature of habit). Sam Finan - friend was there last week for dinner and was at the same table/seat. How is this relevant, you ask? it is not - I am just rambling.
Anyway, the menu had not changed from the last time I was there, and that was disappointing. I found the dinner quite disappointing, but on the positive note, the service was spot on. The food, I felt, was missing finesse that I would expect from a Michelin star restaurant. It felt flat and uninspired and just “Meh”.
I expect a Michelin Star restaurant to wow me every time - they sure as hell charge like it. So far, the best meals I have had have been at Paul Claris 190 
and Gallo Santo. Between the two of them, they barely came up to the cost of one meal at Xerta. I doubt that I will be returning there anytime soon.
On that note, I was curious to see how I would react to my second visit to Ricard Camarena (where I had the meal of the year in 2019), but they are either closed or booked when I am in Valencia.
So far, the best meals have been at unheralded places, so after Angle on Friday, I am going to try and track down off the beaten path restaurants with the help of locals.
Fini, Part 1.
![[blush.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/6/69fdd33e0271fef98daa1424c2be1bf616ee7243.gif "blush"){kind=small}
so thanks for checking back on the thread and responding to John.
