life in Piedmont in 1 month

Our mid June trip to France was canceled because we can’t get into the country. This is our third canceled trip to Europe since Cova hit and we’ve had enough you need to get out of here.
I hear Italy is fairly open. We are thinking of going to Turin, Bra and then visit some of the local wineries.

Does anyone know the current quality of life going on in Piedmont? Are restaurants and cafés open and are people on the street?

Doesn’t exactly qualify as essential travel.

that’s why our trip to France was cancelled

got this back from a chef friend near Padova:

Cher ami, entre jeudi on va communiquer les dates d’ouverture du Calandre et des autres restaurants, on est en train de decider.

Marisa, qui nous lis en copie, va te communiquer la date précise.

Bien a vous et j’espère à très bientôt.

A Piedmont winemaker friend says the smaller restaurants are already open in that area. (Calandre is three Michelin star)

does not look very appealing…

Perhaps you’ve heard of this little bug called coronavirus?

My wife was working in Monza when the country went on lockdown and made it out in the early morning of March 7th to our farmhouse in Ceresito (Biella). Where she has stayed ever since…

Things are only just starting to reopen and it is very slow. Our house is fairly remote (hour north of Turin, two to the west of Milan) with Biella being the nearest city. She was down in Biella yesterday to head to the supermarket and a said a few more businesses were open and restaurants are slowly reopening with still many unknowns. She simply hasn’t ventured far out for obvious reasons as she is very safe where she is…and has work. Italy is a chaotic place in the best of times and there is still so much uncertainty, so trying to project a short month out is a bit of a crap shoot. I am trying to get over there and we were originally thinking 2nd half of June but more and more it is leaning towards July.

One of our favorite haunts in Caluso is Ristorante Gardenia (one star) and they are planning to reopen next Friday. Her building has a fairly large garden area so they are going to be using outdoor space. Even with warmer weather coming it may be better to do lunches than dinners where as restaurants will be using outdoor space to the maximum extent possible.

The border between Switzerland and Italy is due to reopen next week. Switzerland is not as locked down as Italy and a stunning trip could be starting in Geneva (home for 20 years), head along the lake to Lausanne and Montreux (Lavaux wine area), up the Valais to Sierre (stunning vineyards and world class wines) and then if you wanted to head back down the Valais and over the top of the Col du Grand St Bernard. By June the old road will be open (you veer off just before the beginning of the tunnel) and that drive is eye popping. It dumps you out right near Aosta and then you have your choice to either head south to Turin or east to Milan. Or can be done in reverse.

PSA: there are some crazy cheap fares around right now. SFO-GVA in biz for sub $2K on European flag carriers.

Got this email today: Decided on Tuscany because an Italian friend said the more South you go, the safer it is:


Here in Pistoia (as in the rest of Italy) the life is coming back to its normality. The museums will open after the 3rd of June. Churches are open. All the shops are already open. Some restaurants are open and most part of them will be open after the 3rd of June.



One concern is will the locals (we plan on going to 2 small villages) feel uncomfortable being around potentially higher infectious risk Americans?

The Italian government is supposed to decide if we can enter the country on June 14 and I am ready to pull the trigger to leave 6/16

Yes, I would advise that locals will have concern. Last year we spent October in Piedmont. Beautiful time of year! Would you consider pushing to fall?

Perhaps the warmer weather will kill the virus. Be sure to get a second doctor’s opinion. If you REALLY want to go, there is an accommodating medical expert who can assist you, whose office is 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington DC. Let us know if you can get an appointment soon.

P.S.: The office entrance has been moved temporarily to underground. Just ask the attendant wearing dark sunglasses.

P.P.S: Do not land your Screagle helicopter there. Somebody already has first dibs on the pad.

Our favorite time is late September into October. Just love the weather. We had a trip starting the 16th for a week on Lake Como, then Switzerland for a few days then back around for a few more days east of Turin. I canceled in early February. I knew what was coming and felt so sorry for the country. Can’t go wrong with Tuscany.

Truffle season! As long as you don’t lose your sense of smell.

-Al

A friend from Turin said there is a 14 day confinement in effect if you’re coming from USA. This somewhat contradicts what the consulate says since they told me a new regulation will be issued June 14

So We are still up in the air as to leaving June 16

Philip - Keep a close eye on the The Foreign Affairs Ministry statements. Here’s an English version of their most recent: https://www.esteri.it/mae/resource/doc/2020/05/dpcm_20200517_eng.pdf

In short, Article 11 states that the changes are in effect until June 14, hence the consulate’s message to you. With that said, your friend is correct that there’s still a 14 day confinement in effect (see Article 6). In typical Italian fashion Article 6 mentions the quarantine is in effect until June 15 while Article 11 states that everything in the update is effective until June 14. I love this place…

Then there’s regional restrictions to consider, which I understand is a tighter in the Northern provinces. Seems like you’ve got the inside scoop though with your friend from Torino so I’d rely heavily on them.

People are willingly getting on airplanes right now?

Don’t give in to the fear, and to the health “professionals” throwing darts at a board. We Chris’ must stick together!!

Yeah, I was gonna go to a health “professional” to have a stent put in one of my arteries, but I figured this guy who does balloon animals at the Farmers’ Market would be cheaper. Wish me luck!

Smart move… and I believe they like to be called “balloon animal artists” now. Make sure they accept insurance!

Philip - If you’re heading central or south at all it’s my understanding that some of the Tuscan, Umbrian, and Calabrian wineries are opening up to visitors. Good luck!

the 15 June EU ‘opening’ date has been pushed to 1 July for all non-essential travel