Paris (and Champagne) in October; recs please

We’re visiting in mid-October for our 25th Anniversary.

We sandwiched a week in Champagne between two three day stays in Paris. We’re looking mostly for Paris restaurant recommendations. Maybe one or two Michelin starred experiences, but mostly more casual fine wining and dining.

For Champagne, so far we have dinner reservations at L’Assiete Champeniose, Le Royal, and Le Bellevue, the latter two at the Royal Champagne Hotel.

Cheers,
Warren

If I’m honest I’m not sure that the dining experience at L’Assiette Champenoise is worth the tariff. Racine in Reims, on the other hand, I highly recommend. They have a rather nice list of grower champagnes…

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Oh and this is really random but I enjoyed the heck out of Gyoza Bar in the Passage des Panoramas in Paris. We are dumpling fiends who’ve eaten far more than our fair share in Japan and China and Taiwan, but I’m coming back for this the next time I’m in Paris

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I would humbly disagree- we went for lunch in 2019 and it was a fabulously executed and delicious lunch. There were multiple courses where I thought it was the best example of x (tomato, peach, rhubarb) I’d ever tasted. Of course the lunch strategy often works to lower your total bill at high end restaurants. Order a 3 course prize fixe and they can’t help but to bring amuses, bread, palate cleanser, mignardises… order some cheese and you’re in business. At L’assiette I had 2015 PYCM Corton Charlemagne by the glass, which was quite a treat. Our experience there was comparable to 3* restaurants in Paris

We also ate at Racine, which had a more interesting and competitively priced wine list, but the food was way more hit or miss for me there. Lighter fare to be sure and that kitchen works with impressive diligence but if I could only revisit one it would be L’assiette Champenois.

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That’s fair, and I agree that certain dishes (e.g. lobster) were standouts that I still remember to this day. They sent us home with a glossy cookbook to remember them by, which was a nice touch

I second the recommendation for Racines. We loved our meal and had a nice bottle of G. Selosse on top

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I’d spend at least one night at Les Crayeres and have dinner at Le Parc. We’ve done this several times since Gerard Boyer opened the ‘new’ maison in 1983 and it is always a joy to return.

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So here was my take a few years ago.
We had reservations for 7:30 and arrived on time.
They said our table was not ready, but to go into the garden for some Amuse Bouche.
They were very good, but the staff was pretentious and one came walking out with Jeroboam of Champagne with no comment about ordering something instead to drink. I knew we would get hit with 18€ per glass. It felt they were they there to only separate our money from us as much as possible. So after 30 minutes we get to be seated. When we went into the dining room, two tables were taken out of ten or so. They tried to give us a 5 top at the entrance to the dining room (worst table in the room), asked for a corner two top and the obliged. We went with the 6 course Saveur menu for 185€.
The food was excellent. One server would bring out the dish explain it very fast in heavily accented English and could barely understand what the ingredients were in the dish. Then the Captain would come a few seconds later with a great flourish to sauce the dish. This went on all night.
As far as the wine goes we were treated indifferently until I handed the sommelier my card showing I have the Level 4 WSET Diploma in Wine and Spirits, he changed his tune in a second. I did this on purpose of course to receive better treatment and it worked. Overall it was an ambivalent experience. For around $600 for two I would have expected better. One last comment. We tried to take a cab outside for a short ride just across the river. The cab driver refused. So we began walking. Then here comes one of the hotels employees running and asks us to come back that the cab would take us. That put a nice finish on the evening.

Different approach here. Last time in Paris we decided to eat in bistros and avoid the high end restaurants and we even picked a few randomly. Two surprises that we loved. Au Petit Sud Ouest, which is like half tiny market/half bistro, has a menu focusing almost exclusively on duck and fois gras, with a toaster on each table. You can pick out your Sauternes off the shelf to go with your fois gras. Heaven if that is your thing. Another was Vins des Pyrenees, a very good bistro in the Marais, that we had to go back to again. Enjoy the trip.

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Thank you all! Keep the recs coming!

I recommend Le Cinq for lunch for a wonderful 3 star experience. They had a sport coat for me since it was August and a heat wave. The hotel and the flowers are incredible.

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Love Au Petit Sud Ouest been going there for years! I also am interested in others suggestions on Bistros…as those hidden gems are my favorite ones to find when visiting the city.

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There is an entire thread on Paris in the Epicurean section with lots of updated information:

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Not sure if it’s open but Rigmarole is fantastic. Best meal on our trip in 2019. We also went an old favorite, Au Passage. Still rocking’ it. We took my partner’s father to Frenchie and also enjoyed it, though a bit more touristy.

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Rigmarole hasn’t yet reopened and hasn’t yet announced when. Selfishly, I hope they reopen in Sept. Reservations — Le Rigmarole

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Sorry I’m just chiming in without reading much of the thread.

Around Champagne:
Le Gare in Oger - go for lunch, Raveneau by the glass
Sacre Bistro - burgers & bubbles in Epernay
Les Avizes - I stayed at the Selosse estate and had my birthday dinner there 2 years ago, go for dinner, access to incredible wine menu
Wine Bar Le Vintage - drink up
Le Coq Rouge - Food/wine bar in Reims, go to after Le Vintage

Paris
I know people may look at you askew but Passy Mandarin near Palais Royale is one of my favorite places in Paris (and anywhere). It’s old school bow tie and jacket waiter Chinese food.
La Carte Des Vins on Rue Beaumarchais - a nice wine shop & if in the area stop by and check out Romain Henin’s MPQR (Maceration Pinot Quorum Romani - “Pinot like the Romans”) which is the still Pinot he is making while he waits for his Champagnes to be ready to release in the coming years.
L’Etiquette - take a walk on the natty side on the island near Notre Dame, the guy who runs the shop is a character
Yard Bistro on Rue Mont Louis to hang out with all the cool kids

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la carte des vins is a low key gem. easy to pass by, no hype, just tons of cool bottles and sometimes even a few steals. i used to buy bouchard les ursules for under 50 euro here.

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La Carte des Vins has a few interesting whiskies from time to time, too. The bakery across the street is open on Sundays and is also pretty good.

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Second Le Cinq. My wife and I went for lunch and had their tasting menu (I think it was 6 courses). Every dish was amazing. Somm also made some nice wines by the glass suggestions.

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Already booked for mid September lunch.

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