Rome, Naples, Apulia (Puglia)

My daughter and her husband are flying to Rome for a few days and then driving to Naples for a few more. They are then driving from Naples to Ostuni via Apulia (Puglia) where they will stay a few more days. They will fly back from Brindisi to Austin via Rome/ATL.

Any restaurant recommendations you might have in any of those cities or in route from Naples to Ostuni would be greatly appreciated. Also, if you know of any wineries in route or an easy reach from those cities that are worth the visit, please share that information.

Thank you

Hi Michael
Not much to help I’m afraid, except for some musings on Puglia.

I’m assuming the route they’ll take will be via Matera for the cave dwellings. If they want a short but interesting stop just before, then Gravina in Puglia might appear a humdrum little place, but we found it friendly, plus they have a remarkable ravine splitting the town. Later on, Martina Franca worth a stop, but it’s so close to Ostuni that it’s probably better as a day trip (n.b. parking can be a bit problematic in Martina Franca, though we got very lucky on both occasions).

For food, the only place that I can remember, is the agriturismo/masseria we stayed at in Speziale Masseria Narducci | Agriturismo e Ristorante in Puglia From the pictures they’ve very much lifted their game on the accommodation, but the food was good back then and very much local/regional (even if that meant there was a tripe dish). We even lucked on a very enjoyable aged primitivo for €7 that was very much in the style we like (lighter alc% and also had some leather/barnyard).

For wineries I’d probably head down through Mesagne and onwards to some of the stalwarts of Salice Salentino: Candido, Cantele, Leone di Castris, but also try and mix in some smaller places that look promising (website searches can give a feel).

Aside from that, we liked Ostuni (albeit it’s a bit bigger than the other towns), Martina Franca, Locorotondo and Cisternino. Alberobello felt that bit more touristy, but is ‘trulli central’ if that’s a great appeal of the trip. We also didn’t think much of the coastal resorts near Speziale, much preferring Trani, but that’s up north of Bari. The Caves at Castellana might appeal, and appear very popular for school trips.

In general the driving in the region is super easy, with open vistas, and light traffic… punctuated with brief moments of more tricky driving as you pass through small towns, where the roads are narrower and the routing confusing. Then there are the bigger cities, which are generally best avoided for driving in.

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Michael,

My wife and I spent time in Puglia, a bit north of Ostuni, after our wedding in Tuscany last November. Since we did some extensive winery visits Montalcino and Chianti we abstained from wineries in Puglia.
Favorite Towns:
Locorotondo, Polignano a Mare
Favorite Restaurants:
Osteria Il Rosone in Locorotondo - intimate place in old town with great food and stunning and enormous salume e formaggio platter.
Serri Bistrot in Savelletri - owned by two brothers, a chef and a oenophile, with great seafood, wonderful décor, and an impressive regional wine list.

Cheers.

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Naples
Tandem Ragu
Pizza Fritte de Fernanda–was on the Stanley Tucci show but legit
Sorbillo Pizza

Looking at the map there are two ways to Ostuni. The fast way takes you down the Adriatic side through Bari. Bari is a happening town and worth it. But the southern route takes you through Salerno and I think it might be better, though I admit I’m not totally familiar with either route.

Salerno-
San Salvatore Winery has a tasting room there, highly recommended. I guess the Italian word is ‘Lanificio,’ Google that with San Salvatore. BAI is a great beer bar across the street.

Definitely do Matera. The ruins are a tourist trap, literally. GPS doesn’t work and my friends got lost the first time. They said it was absolutely fantastic.

If they are willing to take a quick detour south, lots to do in Cilento. Check out my friends’ travel site:
www.feastonhistory.com
Paestum ruins
San Salvatore winery
Luigi Maffini Winery
lots of Buffalo mozzarella farms, most notably Vannulo

Manduria is close to Ostuni. If they would like to go to Produttori di Manduria winery let me know.

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Thank you Ian, Patrick, and Brent. My daughter and her husband appreciate your recommendations and they putting them to good use.

Michael,

My friend Danielle just spent almost a month in the Cilento and Naples, they should take a look again a the Feast on History Website and check out her substack for more new ideas/suggestions.

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