Wide-ranging request re. Italy

My wife and I are going to Italy late-Spring. We are doing a lot as it is her first trip there and only my second. We will have some stuff set-up by producers as far as meals/visits/accomos, but will also have some blanks to fill. So any gem reccos are appreciated. The trip will be as follows:
Rome 3+ days
Florence/Tuscany 3 days
Milan/Piemonte 3 days
Venice 2 days

Don’t spend much, if any, time in Milan.

Great casual place near Alba we enjoyed.

http://www.villalafavorita.it/

If going to museums, get tickets on line beforehand. Saves hours of waiting in line.
Eat as much gelato as possible.
The Italians eat a small breakfast, coffee and a pastry. Lunch is a big meal. A glass of wine and some snacks late in the afternoon, then dinner late.

Marina and I stayed in Venice back in '99 at this place. It was perfect. The place is basically on it’s own private piazza and very well situated. Our room overlooked the front with a private balcony. Highly recommended.

Locanda Antico Fiore
San Marco, 3486, 30124 Venezia, Italy
+39 041 522 8043 (Fax) ‎

I just returned from a week in the north. You guys will have a great time.

Along Eric’s thinking, have as much pasta and cheese as you can. And if you wife is into shopping then Milan works otherwise I’d skip it and take the train to the lake for the day.

You convinced me – looks great. Too bad I don’t have a trip to Italy planned.

1. You can shop in Rome and Florence. Milan is, frankly, not the place to spend time your first visit in Italy unless you have a lot of time.
2. Order matters as it will affect travel time. Honestly, I’d consider dropping Piedmont and Milan since Piedmont itself it out of the way and aside from food and wine there’s nothing there (yes, I know… but for a first trip it’s a niche thing).

Basically, what I’d do is this (I realize you might have reservations, etc).

Fly into Rome. Spend time there.
Take the high speed train to Florence. Spend time there. MAYBE do some stuff in Tuscany, but 3 days isn’t much time.
Drive west from Florence to the coast, up the coast to Genoa, north to Piedmont. That’s a long day. Alternatively, train to Milan, drive to Piedmont.
Eat and drink in Piedmont. Drive to Milan.
Take the train to Venice.

Remember that driving the countryside is usually more time that you might anticipate from the distances.

My wife works for a large wine distributor. We will have some visits set up in Piedmont and Tuscany. We’ll also look for a couple of other visits. When I say Milan, we will probably only spend one of the nights in the city itself. In general, I realize this is a lot of moving and not so much relaxing. That is fine for this trip, we’ll go back and relax more next time.

In Piedmonte (near la Morra), Trattoria della Posta was off the hook. Ate there twice in four days.

In Milan, there is great seafood to be had. Ristorante a’ Riccione is fabulous.

In Venice, Fiaschetteria Toscana is my favorite (over other greats such as AIlle Testiere and definitely over Al Covo). For a big splurge (big $$$), Osteria da Fiore. La Mascaretta, near Campo Santo Maria Formosa is my absolute favorite wine bar in Venice.

In Florence, Taverna Del Bronzino is my favorite.

I second Trattoria Della Posta. It was fantastic.

John:

I will provide my Tuscany and Rome dining notes and some thoughts soon. Just back from Israel and need to get un-lagged.

Cheers,
Andrew

Also what is a must stop for me is Peck, Italy’s version of Fauchon.

The truffled percorino cheese is amazing, bring some of that back. Also, I you can get Pamesean from the spring milk, which I think is sweeter than the other seasons (they can tell you what season it’s from).

You will have a great time! We can talk next week in between making fun of the Dodgers!

Cheers!
Marshall

Yes thanks. Though I hope your Italy advice is better than your opinion that Madison Bumgarner is as good as Clayton Kershaw.

Not to get tooooooo far off subject but A) the final chapter isn’t written yet and;
B) Mad Bum is still only required (as I said) to be a #3 as of now while Kershaw is the clear ace.
Quite a bit of pressure on Mr. Kershaw.


Cheers!
Marshall

John
here’s a few tips, if you are more specific on the locations I can be a little more precise

In Rome: Go to Roscioli as many time as you can , it’s just great
Also try Pizzarium for sliced pizza

Florence:
Traditional: Mario, Sergio , Burde (these three only open for lunch), RUggero
Definitely eat at Cibreo
Also try Pitti Gola, great wine bar in front of the Pitti Palace

If you go to Siena go to Osteria Le Logge

have fun

Looks wonderful ! thanks.

Literally it’s 400 yards up the hill from the old town Alba looking over it all. Gal that owns the place, roberta, is great. Has a nebbiolo vineyard in the back, fresh squeezed juice every morning. Bottles of her wine in the house, just grab one.

Like I said, it’s casual, you’re basically staying at her farm house. Awesome experience.

Moliterno al tartufo? That’s my favorite! A Sardinian pecorino with huge veins of black truffle running through it. Fortunately available at Salumeria Italiana for anyone in the Boston area.

And I couldn’t possibly agree more with Riccardo’s suggestions for Roscioli and Pizzarium. One of my favorites meals EVER was at Roscioli. Get reservations a few days ahead of time, peruse the online wine-list at your leisure, and be sure to try the burrata (preferably with a nice Franciacorta). The carbonara, the cacio e pepe, the amazing selection of prosciutto, jamon, and salumi, the Zalto Denk’Art stemware … yes, it’s chi-chi and just a tad pricey, but even the freakin’ black pepper is Slow Food approved.

And Pizzarium - what a great excuse to visit Vatican City! As we stood in line with all the other pizza pilgrims, who comes striding in but Gabriele Bonci himself! I back-slapped him hard and he hugged the breath out of me. My wife spun around too quickly, accidentally burying her elbow deep in his ample gut, and he didn’t even feel it. The man, the legend, the Bonci.

If you’re in Rome on Sunday, there are many places where you can get a fine, traditional Sunday lunch. I can certainly recommend Perilli. It’s right near E. Volpetti in Testaccio, but that great little grocer is unfortunately closed on Sundays. We may have been the only tourists in the joint, but it couldn’t have been more welcoming. Be sure to bring your appetite - you’ll have to eat by the wagonload to avoid insulting the signora. Really close to the Testaccio metro stop near the Pyramid.

In Florence, check out Caffe Coquinarius, a little enoteca just off the Piazza del Duomo. Try those sublime little pear tortellinis, or the goose breast, or the pasta all norcina (their version was very truffled, not mascarponey), or just have Niccolo or Ygor have the kitchen make you up a plate of their best stuff. Like everywhere in Italy, roll in late and stay a long time. Communicate your interest in wine, and watch the pours keep coming!

It has been some time, but we stayed at this very small hotel within easy walking distance of all the major sites in Florence. Quaint, extremely comfortable, reasonably priced, friendly staff . . . a memorable stay. I have no similar recommendations in the other cities, as I have never found a place that I would unreservedly recommend