Sorrento, Capri & Amalfi

We are taking a last minute trip to Sorrento and Amalfi next month. We will take the ferry to Capri for a day trip. I am interested in dining recommendations.

I will be in Praiano for a week this June planning to head out to Capri would be interested to hear also.

George

Nice meal and atmosphere in Sorrento

http://www.zintoniowineandfood.com/en/restaurant/

Mont, a short drive (or bus ride) of approximately 6 kilometers will bring you to Ravello, high above the sea. Eat at Rossellini’s, which has two Michelin stars, for gourmet interpretations of local cuisine. Eat at Villa Maria if you want more scaled back fare, but still fresh from their own garden. When I was in Amalfi, I just ate casual.

George, Praiano is small, and I’m not sure you’ll find much there. Ravello is maybe 15 km away. West of Praiano is Positano, which will have more to offer (but parking in Positano in June is, well, good luck). Take the bus. Above Positano is the town of Montepertusso. Eat at Donna Rosa.

Waters were too choppy to take the ferry to Capri when I was there, so I’m no help there.

Brad I think you are right not a ton in Praiano but we will have a car but parking is an issue. I am pretty happy with just the small local cafes which there are a few within walking distance of the house. Definitely going to try and get to Rossellii’s if possible.

Thanks,

George

I second this for casual fare. If you want to try one of the best restaurants in Italy go to http://www.donalfonso.com/it/
and http://www.torredelsaracino.it/
In the hills above Amalfi if you want something traditional and real casual (I’ve never been but have heard good things) http://www.lucianopignataro.it/a/pogerola-di-amalfi-osteria-delle-sorelle-rispoli-dal-1947/36050/

FIFY, Riccardo.

Seriously, Don Alfonso 1890 is an amazing restaurant with a great wine list.

Plus the website gives me direction should I want to arrive by helicopter.

George

And you should!

Maybe that’s too much, but do get a taxi. And ask to see the cellar!

And their outdoor dining patio has one of the most breathtaking views of any restaurant on the planet

Are reservations difficult to get?

George

Parking is the least of your problems. You have to get to these places first. A 5km ride on tiny single track roads with vertiginous drops on one side can be both terrifying and take an hour if your stuck behind a bus or trying to get past one coming the other way. Forget 15 km drives to positano etc.

Ravello is absolutely worth it though as the views are simply amazing. Hotel Caruso (where we stayed) is heaven on earth and has a couple of nice restaurants. There’s another hotel in the village too with a better restaurant but it was inside, with no view, as I recall.

In Capri, once you get from the docks up to the town itself (either wait for cable car or take a taxi), you can walk into so many little places and have a nice meal in the shade. It’s Italy!

There are a few threads on the uk wine pages BB with lots of restaurant reccos for sorentto/amalfi.

Dan

Dan is right about the white-knuckle driving, but perhaps overaxaggerates regarding one hour to go 5k. I rented a villa in Torello (tiny, tiny village just east of Ravello) and spent a week there. Drove to Positano more than once heading west, and to Salerno and down the coast to Paestum (lots of Greek ruins there) heading east. Inland, drove to Pompei and Atripalda (Mastroberardino).

The coast road has earned its reputation. My wife completely freaked out was when we were driving the road from Amalfi to Ravello. There was a bus coming down the hill from the opporsite direction, and I had to back up to give it room to get by (with no guard rail on my wife’s side of the car). And, more than once, you’ll be creeping along the coast road and some local will whiz by you causing you to just scratch your head.

The drive from Praiano to Positano will be fine. As you approach Positano, you will see cars parked along the side of the road (because they couldn’t find parking in the town). Take your cue and park likewise and walk the rest of the way (flights of steps will cut across the switchbacks).

George, also between Amalfi and Ravello is a decent sized market. Many of the local wines are ridiculously inexpensive. You may also be able to have a local vintner fill a bottle for you from his cask. No doubt, you will also be in search of limoncello. Many making it and selling it out of their garages, especially around Minori.

Driving amalfi is fun, went everywhere and ravello is great. Slow and steady is all it takes.

Naples? That’s scary. They drive on train tracks, blast through intersections, and have a total disregard for the rules of the road.

Take the train to Sorrento and rent a car for the day to tour the coast. Much better than a bus.

We rented a scooter on capri, lots of fun. Ride to the blue grotto and jump right on a boat at the cave entrance over near anticapri.

There are no cars in Capri, everything is accessible by foot. There’s a great trail around that end of the island, beautiful hike.

On Capri, consider taking a picnic lunch up the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro in Anacapri if it is a nice day. Lovely views from up there and lots of wild onions to spice up your meal.

Capri is nuts during the daytime as the day trippers take over, but is lovely in the late afternoon and evening.

I’d say you can book a couple of weeks ahead with not too much trouble. You can’t just walk in but not stupid difficult either. In italy we are not too tolerant with restaurants that try to play too cool

Agreed. Traffic signs and lights are merely suggestions in Naples.

The first time I went there was in 1982. We were staying at a hotel in Vico Equense, right on the water. We asked the hotel to make reservations for us, but they said Don Alfonso was not answering the phone. The Michilen Guide said they should be open, so we just drove up there. It was a weekday and not busy at all. Alfonso told us that many local hotels will not call because they want a kickback and/or they want you to eat at their restaurant. He treated us like royalty. I remember ordering one of the legendary 1968 Mastroberardino Taurasi. I think it was the Castelfranci. He then took us on a tour of the cellar and sold me a bottle of the Piano D’Angelo at a fair price.

The last time I ate there was in 2000. I was amazed at the consistency.

Incorrect. As the saying goes, traffic lights are instructions in Milan, suggestions in Rome and decorations in Naples…