Margauxās estates (including Chateau Margaux) were the biggest underachievers in the entire Medoc for what seemed like decades. Margauxās turnaround was in 1977/78 with new ownership, but it really wasnāt until 1983 that we saw so many of the other underachievers produce a good wine.
Lascombes, Rauzan-Gassies, Durfort Vivens, Brane-Cantenac, DāIssan all seemed to come alive in 1983. I donāt think one of them produced a decent wine in the entire 1970s (outside of maybe Lascombes). I was heavy into selling futures back then, and the excitement over the vintage was intense. dāAngludet was one of the great sleepers (Was selling it retail for $88 a case), Palmer was damn near perfect, it was an exciting vintage.
It was the lesser properties in Margaux that were making good wine in the '70s/early 80s; Kirwan, Ferriere, Marquis dāAlesme-Becker, Marquis de Terme, Du Tertre and dāAngludet.
I have nothing to contribute, other than 1983 was a great year since I was also born then. I bought a village Burgundy from Envoyer and am waiting to open it for my 40th.
Excellent choice. Iām an 83 kid too and went trough quite a few bottle over the past two years. VCC is great today, Cheval was the best so far, Margaux is very close and fantastic, Yquem is great, Jaboulet Aine La Chapelle is very nice, Penfolds Grange & Palmer are still young but very promising. You can find my notes on these and other 83s on Cellartracker (Cailles).
'83 here as well and the best I would say was a BA Riesling (750 as well). Behind that Sauternes (Ch. Rieussec is what I had). Reds were tougher I had Beaucastel CdP, Graud Larose, Sociando Mallet which were fine for the novelty but Iām not thinking about them. The one red was a Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard Merlot that came from their cellars as it was a gift from one of their old assistants who I am very close to. I think as we approach 40 when it comes to reds you really have to like the style of drinking āolderā wine. Granted I havenāt tried to find any 1st Growth BDX and stuff but honestly for me itās not worth the gamble. I would rather spend that money on something else even if itās 1st growth but maybe a bit more recent that I would enjoy more.
I just think the desert wines are easier to enjoy for my personal tastes at 40. Maybe itās because we eat the flavors of caramel, butterscotch, dried apricots more regularly than say a red that tases like prunes and a dusty horse saddle.
A nice group was meeting locally last night night and this comment spurred me to bring the '83 Pichon-Lalande. Double-decanted before going to restaurant, maybe 2 hours before serving. Intoxicating nose, elegant on palate, long on finish. For my palate this was at apogee, and no danger of sliding down soon. One person thought it faded after a bit but I took a repour at end and thought still delicious. A 1983 LMHB seemed a little clumsier than other bottles Iāve had, but it was just opened at restaurant and was coming along with some air.
Of course bottles and palates differ, as always.
Opening a 1983 Prieure Lichine this weekend in honor of our daughter in-law who turned 38 yesterday. I have 7 left from a case purchase at a HDH auction from a few years ago. It has showed very nicely so far. Hope it continues to show well.
So, just to bring this topic to a closure for me, Iāll post what I did.
I bought a 1983 Chateau Margaux from an auction at K&L. I BYOBād it to a restaurant that is known for quality food but is casual enough so they would have no clue what kind of wine it was.
The waiter struggled with the cork and politely suggested I should store wines on their side so the cork does not get dry. I nodded and smiled.
He got it out in 3 pieces but the bottom of the cork still looked healthy, I donāt have much (well, any) experience with almost 40 year wines, but it looked good to me. The bottle had no foul smells or anything suggesting a bad bottle (it was a high shoulder fill).
I asked for a decant which they did. After a while, I started drinking the wine with my BMS7 Wagyu NY strip.
Now, pardon me, I am not a good taster. I usually like a wine or I donāt, but I am horrible on putting flavors in written form.
Dark ruby, slight sediment but clear otherwise. Canāt really tell the age from the appearance.
Initially a very subtle wine. Subdued dark fruit with loads of mushrooms and earthy tones. Medium tannins, not harsh, but hiding fruit and other flavors in the background.
After an hour or so, the wine started to sing. Very, very savory. Tannins softening up, dark fruit becoming a bit more prominent with a very obvious menthol note on the palate. Leather, wood, mushrooms, and the feel you get when you smell the forest floor a few hours after rain has stopped.
I wish I had the vocabulary to express it, but it was damn good.
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you enjoyed it. Try Cheval Blanc or Vieux Chateau Certan (great QPR on the VCC) and donāt forget to store some Yquem (wonāt get cheaper and itās one of the better vintages for Yquem).
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