2007 California cabernet sauvignon and merlot: Good as those in 1994?

I agree with Greg - there was a massive and well-documented style change for California Cabernet wines that was just getting started in 1994 and may have been close to its peak (in terms of dominance) in 2007. Most winemakers shifted to an increasingly unbalanced overripe high alcohol approach that focused entirely on fruit flavors to the detriment of complexity and ageability. Cool, dry weather in September and early October of 2007 (before a few minor rain showers arrived in mid-October) allowed most winemakers the lengthy hang time they wanted to get the rich ripe fruit forward wines that were all the rage amongst critics and drinkers alike.

Although most Napa Cabs are still being made in the high-octane style, 2007 probably marked the high point of the “richness is everything” approach, because within a couple of years we started seeing new Cabernets from Matthiasson and others, and the press started paying more attention to wineries like Corison that never altered their lower-alcohol practices. Changes didn’t just impact the Cabernets, either. Wells Guthrie famously dialed back his approach starting with the 2006 vintage, and by 2011 “In Pursuit of Balance” was making its mark by highlighting a radically different approach to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The pendulum is swinging back…

At $40 or more for a regular bottling from new vintages, I would seem to be
paying more for Napa real estate than for wine. The oak shavings and alcohol
seem more suited for starting BBQs on an associated patio than for drinking.

Brentwood Wine recently had 1994 Laurel Glen, for $42 each, which I took. It should outlive many pricier post-1997 California cabernets.

Nice pick up of the 1994 Laurel Glen, Victor. Those early 90’s Laurel Glen Cabs are excellent.

Thanks,
Ed

To my tastes they are not at all equivalent. 2007’s come off as rich but blocky. The alcohol is not a problem but the acidity and freshness is lacking compared to 1994.

Given your love of '94 Cal Cabs, I thought I would share some notes from a 20 year retrospective of 1994 Cal cabs at my home in October 2014, all from my cellar:

Mt. Eden old vine reserve. Subtle spearmint scent with black cherry fruit in the background. Nice cherry fruit in the mouth with plenty of tannins, acids and structure. Lots of sediment. Best just after after opening, fading a bit with air.

Laurel Glen Sonoma. Tea, earth, black and sour cherry scents. Riper and richer than the Mt. Eden. Plum and black cherry fruit with good acidity and plenty of tannins providing structure. Finishes medium length with ripe but slightly drying tannins. Great wine for a big steak.

Pahlmeyer, red blend. Was rich with big soft tannins and sweet plummy fruit. Open, ready if not fading just slightly. Faded to a stewy shell on the next day. Finishes dry, with sweet soft tannins. This was much better with dinner. Most advanced of all the wines.

Forman. Sweet ripe red cherry scent. Still very alive with great balance, smooth long finish. Red plum fruit, ripe sweet tannins, good acidity. A complete wine and very special.

Dunn Napa Valley. Very dark and extracted color. Sweet black cherry fruit in the nose with chalky minerals. Sweet black cherry repeats on the palate. Still has some tannic structure but finishes sweet, with a hint of herby mint flavor. Maybe the youngest of these wines. Should age much longer. Throwing significant sediment.

Dalla Valle. Dark purple, just barely fading at the edge, looks like a young wine. Big sweet black cherry perfume. Sweet and black cherry fruity in the mouth with really nice balance for a 20 year old wine. Finishes long and sweet with fully ripe tannins that finish sweet and dry but not soft. This wine can age another 10 years in a cool cellar. My favorite of the tasting.

Caymus. Fully resolved and very tasty if not unusual. Tasted like silky red raspberries with a touch of cedar.

94 has been my favorite year after 91 for Cal cabs. I did this again in 2015 and the '95’s were not nearly as enjoyable.

Anyone interested in my 2007 Lewellings should PM me. I have 1 of the regular and 2 of the Wight.

LOL - sent mine to wine bid long ago!