Jim- you are rolling !Thanks for trying and posting on so many 16’s. I’ve already picked up 3 wines I had not purchased.
I grabbed a bunch of the Via Nuova earlier this year but the notes on CT all seem to indicate it’s really young and not showing much. Your note was a bit more positive outside of the oak influence. I’ve had 2 Scavino- the normale which i thought was fine but wouldn’t buy more of(it fell well short of my favorites) and the Monvigliero. It just came off as a big wine and very modern in style. I’m more Napa than BDX and it just reminded me of a very modern Cab. I enjoyed it more with food and on day 2 when it calmed down a bit.
I do like to have some earlier drinking Barolos in my cellar while I wait for the $75+ wines to be “ready.” Have you tried the 2016 Trediberri? $45-50, but I wouldn’t rate it as high as 94.
Cordero di Montezemolo is a big and historic winery. It’s owned by a wealthy family (a brother was head of the Italian manufacturers’ association or some such, a position that landed him on TV regularly). It’s a major vineyard owner – with 26 hectares owned and a total of 51ha under their control including leased sites.
They’re pretty far over in the modern camp. The winery website describes the Gattera thus:
Maceration takes place over 6-8 days in stainless steel tanks, followed by 10-12 days of fermentation > [on the short side - JM]> . Wine is then drawn off into small French oak barrels to undergo malolactic fermentation > [malo in barrique is definitely untraditional - JM]> .
The Monfalletto:
4 – 5 day maceration and another 10-12 to complete fermentation in stainless steel tanks > [very short - most traditionalists go with 21+ days total - JM]> . Drawn off into different sizes and types of wood barrels where malolactic fermentation takes place > [sp evidently partly in small barrels - JM]> .
… All the various lots undergo a period of aging in different types of French and Slovenian wood for a period between 18 to 24 months.
Chambers Street has had a number of CdM Barolos from the 70s over the years, and many of those have been excellent.
2h decant
I tasted these with the last glass of the Vajra Bricco delle Viole (which was under argon) as a point of comparison.
2016 Paulo Scavino Barolo Prapo
Garnet color with some brick at the edges. Straightforward nose with black cherry fruit, iron, and a bit of cinnamon hard candy. Crunchy ripe red and black cherry fruit. Good beginning, middle and end to this wine. It ticks all the boxes… but, not super exciting tonight. Happy to have more — we’ll see where it goes. But, if I had to choose…
2016 Paulo Scavino Barolo Carobric
Touch murkier garnet color with more brick than the Prapo. A good bit more complex on the nose with a slightly riper feel — dark cherry, plum, some loamy earth, licorice, pine, and orange peel, all lifted by some barely perceptible VA. Another wine that just pops and fans out on the palate. Juicy, super ripe and super fresh at the same time. Such a great combination. Plenty of structure, but like so many of these wines, it’s just buried in fruit at this stage. Long and powerful finish. If you have this one, open a bottle. It’s super tasty tonight. Terrific QPR here. Very highly recommended.
With respect to oak — I’m not clear on the elevage of these wines but if they used much new oak, it’s not obvious. They may well have — but, it doesn’t stand out if they did (as was the case with the Via Nuova). To me, the Carobric and Via Nuova are comparable in quality — the latter being comparatively more modern in style and definitely showing overt oakiness.
I went back to the Vajra BdV. Spectacular stuff and my favorite 2016 so far… The purity and depth of fruit is so impressive. How do you not love this wine?
I started reading about Cordero di Montezemolo’s history recently and it led me to this fascinating article from the WSJ in 2011 about Luca Cordero di Montezemolo, the Marchese di Montezemolo - Luca Cordero di Montezemolo - WSJ
Former Chairman of Ferrari and Fiat who entertained the idea of trying to become Italian prime minister after Berlusconi.
I had a bottle of Cordero di Montezemolo Enrico VI Barolo, a special bottling they make from grapes out of Villaro. I believe it was a 1982 (maybe 1985) and it was outstanding! So good indeed that I paid them a visit in 2003. Imagine my disappointment when I found the cellar wall to wall with new barrique. It was not a highlight of the trip.
First, let me commend you on the correct use of “lifted”!
On the oak usage, the winery’s website is conspicuously silent. Skurnick’s website has some details, which I read as an answer to the reputation the wines had for being very oaky in the past:
Winemaking at the estate has evolved over time… In 1993, rotofermentors arrived at the estate, and between 1996-1999, Slavonian casks were replaced with French oak—but barriques here were always and only used for the first 10 months of aging to help fix color before the wines were transferred to larger oak botti. The percentage of new oak has been much reduced from a height of 30% from the 1990s to 2004, to only 20% new from 2004 – 2008, 17% new in 2011 & 2012, and for the 2015 harvest they have even reduced to a further 14% new.
… Vinification and aging are the same for all of the non-riserva Barolo to emphasize the terroir of each site. Each cru & sub-cru is vinified separately in stainless steel. Native yeasts, temperature control during fermentation, 8 – 12 days maceration, 20 – 30 days of alcoholic fermentation. Selection of the best performing plots during the first year of aging. … Aging 10 months in neutral French oak barrels, then 12 months in large casks, 10 months in stainless steel, 10 months in bottle before sale.
Based on the ample maceration/fermentation time (~30-40 days), the rotofermenters must have been abandoned.
Hi John,
I figured that to be the case considering how approachable the wine was. There was a slight richness to it which I attributed to the oak but the fruit is just outstanding and the tannins are there but very fine. I’ve had a few bottles now and it doesn’t seem like the style gets in the way. The Gattera remined me a bit of Grasso. I love traditional Barolo but these scratch a nice itch as well. I got a bit of a “flabby” perception on the Scavino Normale which I’m thinking could be oak ? I thought the Cordero Monfalletto was significantly better.
On another note I had my final 2008 Schiavenza Cerretta over the summer. What a wine. As many have said before I wish I would have let the rest get to this point.
8/14/2020 rated 94 points: This is clearly in it’s drinking window now. It has notes of tar, dark red fruit and hints of menthol that fill out and expand in a seemless finish. Tannins are super fine and barely perceivable. It hasn’t taken on any secondary characteristics but it’s in beautiful shape right now and everything I want in Barolo. We paired with Pork Rib Roast and it worked perfectly.
Hi Justin- I have not had the Trediberri but have seen some positive notes on it. Will take a look. At this point I’ve had the following normale Barolo ranked in preference.
Top wines
Burlotto
Vietti Castiglione
F. Alessandria
Cordero Monfalletto
I splurged on the Burlotto and have some for the cellar but won’t buy more based on price. The other 3 are excellent and right there with the Burlotto.
Very good
Massolino- so young. Finally showed up on day 3. Won’t touch for 5 years but buying more
Pira- more approachable and very good.
Vajra Albe
Good
Sebaste Tresuri- if you have a Total Wine near you these are winery direct wines you can get 15% off on. Solid for the $35 I paid
Scavino- pretty good and one I’ll open for Barolo newbies. Not buying more.
I haven’t veered near the Cru’s like Jim has and have only opened the Scavino Monvigliero which was excellent.
Tempting me to try one as these are always one of my favorites every vintage. A recent 12 and 14 are excellent. I might try the 15 Ravera first. The recent notes on CT are really positive
[
I went back to the Vajra BdV. Spectacular stuff and my favorite 2016 so far… The purity and depth of fruit is so impressive. How do you not love this wine?
Decanted for 1h and tasted next a glass of P. Scavino Carobric for reference.
2016 Elio Grasso Ginestra Casa Mate
Another great 2016 Barolo. Interesting and masculine nose with black cherry fruit, something a little musky, a bit of camp fire, and some rust. Just a little heat. Bit richer than others tasted recently. Huge plum and dark cherry fruit keeps building on a base of stiff tannins and some prickly acidic bite. This is a very juicy wine builds on the palate like a ‘V’ — just growing in volume through a really long finish. Should cellar a very long time. Quite open and interesting. Worth opening soon if you have several bottles but will likely close down given all the structure.
I slightly prefer the Vajra Bricco delle Viole, Cogno Ravera and F. Alessandria Monvigliero to this — but, it’s not far behind for me. Roughly on par (for me) with several of the P. Scavino wines I’ve tried (Carobric, Ravera, Monvigliero, and Bric del Fiasc).
I enjoyed the Elio Grasso Casa Mate but I thought the E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi was a significant step above it or any of the Scavino cuvees.
Jim- you’re opening some of my favorites. Love the Casa Mate.
Mont- Thanks for the update on Pira Cannubi. Seems like it is a favorite for sure.
I’m continuing to work my way through the line up of base Barolo’s. I’ll add Azelia to my list of favorites. Really enjoyed this one and will be buying more.
2016 Azelia Barolo
12/3/2020 rated 92 points: Really beautiful wine with floral, cherry and mint tones on the nose. It’s very expressive and persistent and deep in flavor with similar notes on the palate. This is medium body and weight with the tannins showing up on the long finish. It shows some of the Serralunga imprint with power and tannins but approachable now with air. It should develop nicely over the next few years. I’ll be buying more. Very good
I liked this one but didn’t buy more because I hate the plastic corks. I feel good about DIAM closures and have had very good experience with them, but I’m just not comfortable with the spongey plastic ones that they’re using. It’s probably not rational.
anyone had any of the 2016 Nervi-Conterno’s? Scores are all over the place on the regular bottling and I see some pretty highs cores from AG on the singles but he’s saying the Molsino will need 15 years to come around whereas the Valferana will need half the time
I had the '16 Giacomo Fennochio - Villero last night. I liked it, but it was very different in style from the Schiavenza -Ceretta I posted on a few days ago. If the Schiavenza was extracted, juicy and dark-fruited, this was lighter bodied and more (yes) brown-fruited. This seemed like it might have seen more air somehow. Not that it was oxidized, but it tasted more like a Barolo that had spent more years in cask. More austere. Both producers are pretty traditional. I’m sure some of the difference is the terroir – Serralunga (Ceretta) versus Villero (Castiglione Falletto).
It was good with gorgonzola-stuffed gnocchi in sage butter, and with cheese, but it wasn’t as immediately appealing as a lot of '16s because there was less fruit. With less flesh, the tannin and acid stood out more, though the tannins weren’t particularly hard.
I’m buying the vintage very selectively, and I’ll probably pass on this. But I’d still give it 90-ish points on my tough-grading scale.
![[wink.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/04707e6a7bbb03e0153e349d8a9270d30e1e9525.gif "wink"){kind=small}