2017 Barolo / Barbaresco : What have you bought / planning to buy

WINE TALK
21

Trying quite a few LN, limited number of Barbaresco’ 17. I was quite underwhelmed. The LN includes a my first B. Mascarello, had the first bottle about a year ago. Felt tired, cooked fruits and not very inspiring to be honest. Had my view of 2017 sealed with that bottle.

Gave my second and remaining bottle a try last week and while low expectations it blew my mind, completely contradicted my expectations. The 2017 B. Mascarello was like a completely different wine, intrigued to the level I didn’t take any notes but it was a beautiful wine, very much alive, red and dark fruits, a balanced and elegant wine.

The things time can do to Nebbiolo - this bottle and its transformation (reminded and) taught me something.

22

Echoing David B and Jeremy - I buy my favorites every year, though perhaps more of them in a vintage like 2016, and I get pleasure from drinking the same wine over all sorts of vintages, barring something truly catastrophic. I like the differences, it’s important part of my wine exploration and passion. To Brent’s point as well - some vintages are delightful for drinking young while others sleep. It’s great to have some wines I don’t have to wait for! I appreciate them both. And many times those to-be-drunk-young wines turn out to age much better than anyone would have predicted.

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23

I am not going to buy much to cellar but will order it on lists and such when I see them. I have not been that pleased with the ones I’ve had to date though.

24

1 btl of Burlotto Monvigliero because the price was too good to pass up. Not planning on buying much more because 16s are still out there at non-usurious pricing.

25

2017 Trediberri RdA. Lovely wine.

26

Can’t be worse than '14 when many wines were not made at all. But I understand buying less this vintage than in others.

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What have you tried thus far upon which to base your vintage assessment?

Spoken from a perspective of experience, wisdom, common sense, good judgment and the all important “what is best depends upon for what and when and …” Thank you, Sarah.

And more experience, wisdom, common sense and good judgment.

Again, what have you tried to reach your “lesser” assessment? Lesser for what?

Oh, you have actually tried some 2017s upon which you reach an early assessment of the vintage? Now that’s an idea. Thank you, Jeremy, I have had many very good 2017s as well.

And more experience, wisdom, common sense and good judgment.

Dismissing an entire vintage (particularly without trying the wines) eases buying decisions, but it is seldom a prudent one.

28

I have purchased zero bottles of 2017. I went deep, too deep on 2016 and need to take a breather to keep my cellar aligned with my drinking habits.

TW

29

If you only buy highly regarded vintages that require lots of cellar time your drinking habits will never show that you drink the wines at all.

Not trying to question you specifically, but what the heck do some folks drink when they want a Barbaresco/Barolo and the 2008, 2013, 2016 (to name three structured vintages) are not ready to go? I like having some 2009, 2011, 2014, etc. around to just drink, much as I like having a fair amount of 2014 (to name one vintage) Burgundy - to just drink with less angst about “drank it too soon.”

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30

Doesn’t young Langhe Nebbiolo scratch your itch for Piedmont while you let the really structured vintages rest? That is my typical stand in, though I’ve drank through so much I need to restock.

Though my 2016 buying happens to align with a really structured vintage, it also happens to be when I really hit my stride with liking these wines and over extended my buying significantly compared to previous years. Thus taking off 2017 isn’t as much about buying an inferior vintage as it is taking a step back from buying too much. I did the same with 2016/17 in Germany after 2015’s but was very much back on the horse for 18,19,20.

31

Langhe Nebbiolo only takes care of it to a degree. I still like exploring the vineyard variations, even in younger wines. Maybe that’s just me.

Appreciate the details on your rationale. It makes a lot more sense with some color to the reasoning.

32

This forum, perhaps not as much as e-bob in the day, is to my eyes rather focused on ‘the *best producers in the *best vintages’. Given the recent thread discussing the heavy markup on Bartolo Mascarello wines, perhaps we need to ask ourselves whether we are part of the problem, buying wines because they are highly regarded by other people here / leading critics? I’m reminded of the Rick Steves guide to Italy, a guide launched as an insight beyond the usual tourist trail of Rome, Venice & Florence, but which has been followed in such numbers that anyone looking for an under the radar gem would need to put Steve’s book back on the shelf.

By all means understand vintage generalisations, and indeed producer style, but steer away from buying guides and critics who exhort us to buy from the 5th ‘vintage of the century’ this decade. More than that, go out and find your own favourites, even better if they are discovered by you visiting them. The experience is very rewarding, and if you would lose face by putting this unknown wine in front of your wine tasting friends, then you have the wrong wine tasting friends.

Me? I’ve not bought any 2017 Barolo or Barbaresco, but then again I have no 2016s either. I do have some 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo, Grignolino, Ruche etc. plus a Roero and a Donnas. Just one 2017 Piemontese wine bought so far - a dry brachetto, as I’m a fan of the grape in sparkling form and so wanted to try one fermented dry. Mostly this is down to me having plenty maturing in the cellar and partly down to not having visited Italy for 3 years, as visits are often an opportunity to discover new wines either at **wineries or in the enoteche.

Regards
Ian
p.s. FWIW credit to J Galang for the starter post. It’s good to see the challenge to think about different vintages.

  • both are far more matters of personal taste than the critics would have us believe.

** Tasting 2006s-2008s on one visit to Piemonte, I went in with the view that 2006 was my style of vintage, 2007 probably wasn’t, whilst 2008s I was keen to try. I came away with quite a few 2006s, as it mostly (but not universally) did hit the cellaring style I prefer, some 2008s joined them, but also a handful of 2007s - they were open, had decent balance (for my palate) and had enough charm to give confidence that they could be drunk young or cellared in the medium term. We even got to taste a 2009 from a producer I’d never heard of, but unusually for the Langhe, had a drop in tasting room (his front room) where he was happy to chat to anyone who popped in. The discussion / company was excellent and so was the wine.

33

Glad I am not the only guy who enjoys Ruche!

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34

I mostly skipped the vintage. It’s not because the wines aren’t good but I have limited storage. I was floored by many of the 2016s and bought a gazillion of them. I’m sure I’ll buy a good amount of 19s. So with 2017 I only bought a few essentials. Sure you could drink some 2017s earlier than 2016 but I don’t really see the point. For example, the 2017 Burlotto Barolos showed extremely drying tannin a few weeks ago, and except for the Cannubi these are wines that can often be approachable young. Will the fruit keep up over the years? Who knows. Walter Speller doesn’t think so. I bought them, I chose to not roll the dice on others. I don’t think we’re talking about such radically different aging curves between vintages at this stage (excluding vintages with characteristics I want to avoid altogether, like 2003 or 2009). I’m skeptical that all 2005s are that much more ready than the 2004s, or the 2014s vs. the 2013s. The 2014s I’ve had need a ton of time. But a 97 vs. a 96? Sure, if you’ve been buying that long. So depending on your palate, wallet, and storage, I really don’t see the heresy in sitting out a vintage based on opportunity cost.

What to drink in the meantime? I think some 2006, 2008 and even 2010 Normale are delicious now. Verduno can sing. Barbaresco and AP too. A recent 2010 Cogno Ravera was just entering its drinking window and was not at all infanticide. Then Brovia is nails and 06/10 Vajra BDV tasted like they were bottled yesterday. Lessons learned, check back in 2030. Some higher end 99/01 I’ve had recently are in a good spot for my palate. Then my annual case+ of Burlotto LN sparks joy with every bottle. I do not regret passing on opportunities to recently backfill 2007, 2009, 2011, 2012. YMMV

35

Speaking for myself (and I’d expect many others would be similar), I have no shortage of wine in my cellar to drink, so there isn’t a need to buy broadly in lesser vintages. Focus on the best vintages.

Furthermore, given the way prices have moved, the better buying strategy for vintages such as 2017 is to wait for close-outs and deep discounts, or pick up at auction. You mentioned 2014 - look how easy it is to pick up that vintage now. There is no hurry.

I have my handful of producers I’m passionate about and I’ll buy them every vintage, but outside of those I’ll pass 2017 for now.

Incidentally, I notice that most people advocating for buying every vintage appear to be in the wine trade. If I could buy wines at 60% below retail I would be buying every vintage as well.

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I am not in the trade. I just happen to enjoy exploring what each vintage provides. I find it more interesting. Careful selection of producers avoids kissing many frogs.

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I am not in the wine trade and have no special pricing sources for anything but one brewery’s sake.

38

I’ve tried a decent number of 2017s given that restaurants are generally selling the latest vintage or two.

I really don’t mind them! Some can trend ripe, of course, but the good producers managed them well and they’re quite silky and generous to boot if certainly less complex and deep than 2016. It’s “just” a Langhe Nebbiolo, but the Vietti Perbacco is a standout as it is every year - the 2017 Produttori is also pretty darn good though surprisingly sturdy. Olek Bondonio’s Roncagliette was gorgeous and already showing so well. I’ve just recieved my Elio Grassos and will be getting Burlotto soon, so I’m excited to check in on those. Genuinely excited for Vajra Albe as a restaurant staple, too.

I also think only buying the best vintages is a bizarre way to engage with everything this hobby has to offer. Of course, stock up on wines that are going to be stellar in time, but if you only buy the blue chip wines in blue chip years (or even only the blue chip wines at all!) I feel like your wine experience will suffer.

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39

Sounds prudent to me! [snort.gif]

40

Odd, noticed that as well.