Couldn’t agree more, Robert. Especially the 2015s out now. Mostly serine, planted on granite after WW 2. I’m told 20-30% whole cluster. Only 15% new oak, the rest old 600 liter casks. Meat, olives, violets. They make a few different SJ cuvées but the straight vv is fantastic. Woodland Hills introduced us to LF. The Côte-Rôtie Reviniscence in 2015 is terrific as well as the viognier is done with a more deft touch.
We’ll probably open a bottle this Independence Day weekend now that you’ve mentioned it.
Polaner, the importer, gives more details. I suspect what you’re describing as “modern” is mostly less stem inclusion:
Granit 30: Younger vines on a less steep slope. No stems.
Granit 60: Older vines on slopes of ~60%. 33% whole cluster.
Geynale: Extremely old vines. 90% whole cluster.
All are fermented 2/3 in barrel and 1/3 in tank. All are aged in barrel for a year or so.