I’ve done at least 15 roundtrips on the RER from Charles de Gaulle to downtown in the last 10 years - never even a hint of a problem. It’s a great service, and no Peripherique traffic jams!
Those damn chickens roasting in the front looks so good and smell so good but are always so dry =(
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I’d estimate having <5% of bought dry chicken roasting in front of butchers in Paris, ever.
My wife and I went to Paris over New Years. Hadn’t been there since 2007 when I studied abroad. It was great going back and experiencing the city with a little bit more money. The one thing I had forgotten, was how many times the French people, specifically vendors of any kind greet you, thank you, and say goodbye.
That market effing blew us away! It’s where we bought an Epoisses that I brought home, and we did the oysters as well. So much food, and amazing quality and variety of prepared foods too. One thing you mention that is so true it made me laugh, was knowing your weights and fractions. One stand was selling dried fruits, nuts, spices etc. I wanted some candied orange peels, and the vendor jokingly asked me if I wanted a kilo. I hadn’t pre-translated kg to lbs in my head, but managed to recover gracefully and got deux cent grammes. I think it was like 3 euros, and they were delicious.
Sounds like “Markets” is the topic de jour, so my two cents 
I’ve discovered two kinds of “markets” here - traditional farmers’ markets (Bastille, Saxe) that show up a couple of days a week and large, covered markets (Marche de Passy) that are collections of independent stands under a roof. For this post, I’m leaving out “street markets” that are really extensions of a store out in the street (Rue de Levis, etc). Thoughts below on each.
Farmers’ Markets - there are few things I like more in Paris than an open-air Farmers’ Market. Now that the sun is out, I’ll be hitting more, so will hopefully post pics when I do. These markets are generally open two-three days a week and the two I’ve hit up repeatedly are right off of Metro lines. On Saturdays (and Thursdays, but I’m working), we like to hit up Saxe-Breteuil, which is a short walk south of the Eiffel Tower. Sundays, we’ll go to Bastille Market (along Blvd Richard Lenoir), which is also open on Thursdays. We usually take people to the Saxe-Breteuil market, as we can go hang out at the Eiffel Tower (pro tip - if you want to go under it, walk through the gardens and go around the back… it’s a prettier walk, 1/4 of the people in line and you don’t have to wait with half of West Africa trying to sell you Eiffel Tower key rings, hats, etc.) and then head over to the market for a quick, early lunch.
Great thing to remember about these markets is that you’re not just getting fresh food / flowers / cheese, etc. - quite a few of the vendors cook food there. Kids in tow, we picked from stand after stand and ate as we went, with the girls choosing jamon, culeto and cheese, the boys scarfing down a stash of random fried stuff and the wife and I eating a rotisserie pork knuckle.
Why I like these markets so much:
- Many of the stands are highly-specialized. We counted 19 different types of olives in an olive stand and you can see the pics of the tomatoes below. The fish stands, especially, go on for days and often have a mix of fish from Normandy and the south trucked in.
- You’ll find stuff you don’t find in the normal stores, depending on the season. See the fish example below - everybody sells 100 type of fish; you generally only see things like rays, shark, crazy shellfish at the farmers’ market.
- You catch one-offs like my dinner last night. While I am an aspiring alcoholic and take joy in wine, IPAs, bourbon and anything else in a cocktail glass… I’m really a foodie at heart and there are few things as exciting to me as stumbling across a quarter suckling pig for 10 euros and figuring out what I should do with it. One thing was certain, however - I was chasing it with a bottle of pinot noir
There are a couple of downsides to these markets. If you don’t get there before 11:00 AM, you’ve missed 20-25% of the inventory, and the later it gets, the more it feels like a living Tetris exhibit than it does a walkable market. The other challenge is that you’re going to need basic French for some of the stands. I usually smile and point a lot, but words I’d know - “tranche” means ‘cut/sliced’ (think charcuterie, bread), “moitie” means ‘half’, “c’est tout” means ‘that’s all’ and “aussi” means ‘also.’
Links here:
The other markets I like (and hit this AM) are covered markets. These are very similar to the Spanish neighborhood boquerias, although nowhere near as massive as La Boqueria off La Rambla. You’re not going to find anywhere near the selection as a good farmers’ market, but they’re usually open seven days a week and are guaranteed to have high-quality stuff day-in and day-out. The one near my place has an Androuet, which means I’m going on a cheese adventure every time. In all seriousness, given the number of people reading this that AirBnB Paris… it would be one of my first questions to the owner, once you lock a reservation. Link to the Passy one → https://theweekendinparis.com/when-markets-trump-museums-in-paris-le-marche-couvert-passy/
Quick follow-on, given the note in the link above (Passy) regarding Aux Mervueilleux de Fred.
AMdF (I’m lazy) might be the only time I’ve been walking through a neighborhood, stopped dead in my tracks and Pepe le Pew’d myself TWO blocks to a store. The smell was nothing short of mind-blowing, largely due to the location in the 8th having an oven vent that opened on the street. I don’t know how much I spent that first visit, but I’m pretty sure I need to make an immediate credit card payment. Their claim to fame is their whip cream/bake meringue desserts, which they make in the window while you watch. It’s the go-to dessert if you’re eating at our place; macaroons and cannels are for the tourists 
While their desserts are why most people go there, we go early on the weekends to grab their brioche (sugar, chocolate). See pics below.
And finally, just for a shot of randomness… a pic of the Poulet de Bresse mentioned a few posts back.
Andrew, Thanks for all the updates and observations. I’m so jealous!
Come visit, BRING BEER. You’ve already seen your bottles with the Tower in the background, taken hanging out of my apartment window
Last note, given I’m conscious of the fact I’ve made 10 posts in the last 48 hours (blame the long May Day weekend). One of my scores at the Saxe market was two rabbits for 12.50 euros. I’ve always wanted to try cooking rabbit, so I went all out with a “braised rabbit in mustard sauce” recipe, using Maille from the boutique and some crème fraiche from Androuet. Pics/recipe posted at my more or less defunct AK Grill site (apartment living killed the grills) → Redirecting... Apologies for the off-WB link, but didn’t want to do it twice.
Andrew – nicely done on the rabbit. Fresh game for cooking is one of the huge benefits of hitting the markets. Lots of feathered game, rabbit, etc, dirt cheap.
Andrew,
Next time you are at the Bastille market, walk up the street to Marche D’aligre. I have always found this market to have more choice and cheaper prices. Also access to African and middle eastern foods
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Most rabbit will be farmed. Quite different to wild.
Here are some cooking options for your rabbits:
JXuqJ4c1dxE
In France?
Pretty sure he means macarons 
Andrew, so great that you are enjoying Paris. Nothing like it for quality, interesting food. France at its best. And the pictures are great, bring back so many memories (I lived in France for 3 years, and have been back many times since).
When you say Bastille market, I guess you mean the one along Blvd Lenoir. If not, check that one out, it’s very large and IIRC well-stocked.
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Correct. Have only seen it referred to as Marche Bastille, but is on Lenoir.
Yes re: macaron. No coconut goodies that I’ve seen.
Back to the grind today, although my old team is in town tomorrow, so I’ll get a free dinner out of them 
Easily one of the best and liveliest market adventure in Paris is Marche d’Aligre.
A nice lunch of fresh seafood and champagne at this retail store’s restaurant, Sea Bar Paris Peche (https://www.paris-peche.com/seabar/presentation-paris-11.html), and some fresh wines and pate with locals at the city’s most fun wine bar, Le Baron Rouge (Le Baron Rouge - David Lebovitz), is a must for us every time we’re in town.
Speaking of Bastille markets there’s a fun Antiques Fair every November nearby the Bastille metro stop. There’s a high end market in a big tent and more casual stuff in an open air market.
I just said every November but after looking it up they also have one starting tomorrow:
https://joel-garcia-organisation.fr/category/nos-salons/antiquites/
There’s a fee to go in but if you sign up for their email list you can get free tickets, or at least you could in previous years.
Enjoying your write ups very much. Thank you for taking the time to do them!
It’s been a hell of a week. We all have them, and I’m guessing my approach is similar to yours if you’re reading this - I picked up a USDA Prime-style dry-aged steak and stopped by my neighborhood Nicolas for a $30 bottle of Bordeaux (I’m a baller on a budget). I walked up to the register with the bottle and then I saw it - a bottle of Chartreuse on the back shelf, with “Cuvee des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Sommeliers” written on it. I immediately thought of this thread → Chartreuse Trivia - Beer and Spirits - WineBerserkers (and have appreciated Stuart’s cheese recs), so I jumped on it.
Thoughts: the color was a bright yellow-green, almost reminding me of dull-colored anti-freeze. (great start, I know). Syrupy, sweet but with anise/pepper/vegetable overtones and at 45%, a bit of a burn afterwards. I’d love to try this in a gin-based cocktail or maybe paired with a blue/roquefurt cheese. I don’t know that I’m in love with it enough to pay $500/bottle, like some of the articles in the thread above, but was fun to try something new?
The Louvre
Last Saturday was cold and rainy here, but with 4 kids (including the twin 4 year olds), we had to get out of the house. My wife suggested going to the Louvre - it would get us out of the house, it’s pretty wide open and we don’t have to worry about the kids making too much noise. How crowded would the Louvre be on a rainy three-day weekend, the day before the election?
First sign things are going to go sideways - my 13 year old daughter decides to go get lunch at Chipotle, rather than going to the Louvre. Actual question and answer “You’re SERIOUSLY telling me that if I ask you to choose between the Mona Lisa and Chipotle, you’re opting for the ‘Burrito Bowl?’” “Duh. It’s Chipotle. Alex, I’ll take ‘Soft Corn Tacos’ for $600.” I’m doing my best to avoid being a “Dadtator,” so I let her go… as anything is better than listening to “uhhh another painting. Can we go?”
Pro tip - on rainy days, the entire city of Paris attempts to ride the 72 bus line from Beaugrenelle to the Louvre. The only worse than getting jammed in with 50 people on a single bus or subway car? Getting jammed in with 50 WET people on a single bus or subway car, while dragging 3 kids.
We’re now standing in the street in front of the Pyramid at 11:30 AM. Of course, it’s the day before the election and none of us thought Macron would be giving his acceptance speech here (the big political stuff is usually at Trocadero, with the Eiffel Tower in the background). There are fences, scaffolding and giant TV screens set up… and people EVERYWHERE. Apparently everybody else had the same idea. And now, one of my 4 year old kids has to pee, which leads me to my next tip.
Pro tip - don’t stand in line with the Mongolian Horde of people in front of the pyramid. Go down to the Carousel (or get off the Metro at Louvre/Rivoli and walk directly there) and get in line there. The line is much shorter and the skylight is pretty cool. Note: you’re not waiting in line for tickets here; you’re going through security. See pics below.
My wife got in line and we went off in search of a bathroom (they’re upstairs, next to McDonalds). Paris’s restroom model is generally pay-to-play, so I’d like to say I was shocked that it was a euro per kid to use the restroom. I’d gladly pay that two euros again IF I DIDN’T HAVE TO WALK BY McDONALDS TO GET THERE. We jumped back in the security line and, after saying “NO FRENCH FRIES” for the thirty-second time, got into the Louvre mall area. Note: if you plan on going more than once in a year, consider the “Friends of the Louvre” package. 120 euros gets you in for a year and you can bypass the lines. If you’re AirBnB’ing for a week or two or are staying in the area, go check the Louvre out for an hour or two a day in the AM or at night, rather than do the Museum Death March for 6 hours (“oh look, it’s another Renoir. what time is dinner?”).
We made it up the steps to see Winged Victory, down a few side halls and then spilled into the Mona Lisa room. It’s everything you’ve imagined and less… 100 people all angling up to the ropes, concert style, to take selfies with a small painting in the background. We back-tracked a bit because I wanted to see Venus de Milo and it was relatively close to the Mona Lisa. Again, actual conversation, but with a 4 year old this time:
Me: “Son, look! It’s Venus de Milo. She’s supposed to be Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty.”
Court: “Peeew peeew peeew.”
Me: “Did you know that somebody found this buried in an ancient city (thank you God for making Wikipedia)”
Court: “Peeew peeew peeew”
Me: “What are you doing?”
Court: “I’m shooting webs at it. I’m Spider-Man.”
#facepalm
Down the escalator, into the security lin. Could not have picked a worse time to go, but it was infinitely shorter than the main entrance.
Turns to the left, and you’re there.
