I can’t get past the raisiny taste, which is a note I dislike in almost all wines in which it appears. Funny, since I like raisins well enough. Quintarelli are the best I’ve had, and I can appreciate the quality, though I still struggle. My husband drinks them when I’m away.
Thanks Monica for the fantastic input!
Regarding complementary food, I first tasted Amarone when it was presented as a pairing at Per Se, with quail seared in caul fat with a cherry gastrique. It was marvelous - the acidity in the gastrique was a great foil for the body of the wine. I don’t remember the producer or vintage but suspect it was a recent release.
More recently I had the joyful pleasure of tasting a 74 and 04 Bertani side by side. The 04 fell on the more extracted end whereas the 74 had developed into something wonderful. One of the best “old wine” experiences I’ve ever had.
Here’s my note: Some even browning of the hue but less than I expected. The nose was captivating with many port-like characteristics. It had sweet figs, dark caramel, sultana raisin, and creme brulee. The taste profile, on the other hand, was like an aged sherry. Bone dry (totally counter to my expectations and the aromatic suggestions above), with oxidative notes (but in no way flawed). Candied citrus, toffee, and caramel popcorn on the long and graceful finish. Wow. 97 pts
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By the way, have you experienced interesting Sforzato (nebbiolo from Valtellina) ?
When young, I’ve preferred Nino Negri’s Sfursat Carlo Negri over their top-of-the-line 5 Stelle Sfursat, which can be quite modern and oaky. Carlo Negri feels leaner, more structure-driven and savory rather than sweet-toned.
However, with some age (+15 years), 5 Stelle Sfursat can be very impressive. 5 Stelle 1999 I tasted (blind) a few years ago was great stuff.
1999 Nino Negri Sfursat 5 Stelle > - Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Sforzato di Valtellina (7.7.2016)
Served blind in a tasting of 1964-1999 Italian wines.Brooding dark red color with slight bricking and a touch of haziness. Initially the nose is dominated by a heady blackcurrant aroma, almost reminiscent of blackcurrant juice concentrate and Chilean Cab. However, the bouquet quickly resolves to reveal aromas of dried dark cherry, dates, prunes, redcurrants, some truffle and sous-bois, a little ripe blackcurrant, ahint of chocolate and a touch of aromatic herbs, all wrapped up in matured, syrupy sweetness. Opulent and quite full-bodied in the mouth with rich, developed flavors of dried dark cherries, sweet maraschino cherries, cranberries, sour cherries, some raisin, a hint of chocolate and a touch of bitter spice. With its high acidity and rather pronounced, mouth-drying tannins the wine feels very structured and powerful. The high alcohol (15%) gives the wine some obvious heat. Structured, long and somewhat astringent finish with mature flavors of sour cherry, acidic red berries, raisin, some prunes and a hint of truffle. Good tannic grip with some alcohol heat.
An utterly compelling Sfursat; stylistically I probably wouldn’t have enjoyed this wine when it was young, but now, close to 20 years of age, it is starting to drink really nicely; I especially liked how the fruit profile veered more towards the red, cherry-and-tart berry end of spectrum instead of the dark fruit end, despite its sweetness and concentration. Has some quite developed characteristics, but feels far from being really old, with the structure especially feeling taut and sinewy still. Flavor-wise the wine has probably reached its peak, but structurally the wine is still very young; probably will keep easily for some years, but I’d drink this one sooner rather than later. Probably will start fading after some 20 years of vintage. In its current condition, the wine is hands-down excellent stuff. Close to being my wine of the night.
(96 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
Then there is Travaglini Il Sogno Vino da Tavola, which is basically a Sforzato made in Gattinara. Very powerful and serious wine, feels more like a concentrated Barolo or Barbaresco than the opulent Amarone-style.
2009 Travaglini Il Sogno Vino da Tavola > - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola (26.4.2015)
A wine made in the style of Sfursat from the neighboring Lombardy - by raisining the Nebbiolo grapes to concentrate their sugar and flavor content. First the grapes are dried for a 100 days, so that they lose up to 50% of their weight. After that, the grapes are pressed and the skins are macerated in the wine for 25-30 days. Finally, the wine is left to age for 40 months in old, Slavonian bottis of 2000 liters.Dark, translucent, slightly brown-tinted cherry color with almost colorless rims. Incredibly intense and complex bouquet with sweet, rich and concentrated aromas of figs, wizened maraschino cherries and cherry marmalade, some raisin, fragrant florals, a little tobacco and hints of dust. The intense palate starts off very full-bodied and concentrated, but then the high acidity and ample, firm tannins jump in and sort of dry out the wine, making it feel very firm, medium-bodied and with remarkable structure. Bold, complex flavors of wizened dark cherries, salty licorice, sweet plummy fruit, figs, raisins, some aromatic herbs and hints of tar. Very tannic, rich and sweet finish with extremely long, powerful and robust flavors of figs, dried cherries, raisin, roasted bitter spices, some minerality and hints of dried dates. The grippy tannins just coat and dry your mouth while the complex, layered flavors linger on the tongue for minutes.
This is an incredibly huge, impressive and remarkably structured “Amaroneized” Nebbiolo with stunning depth and ridiculous cellaring potential. What is really incredible is that the wine is at 15,5% of alcohol, yet it doesn’t show one bit - not in the nose and not in the mouth. Probably not for people who enjoy the lighter, delicate expression of Nebbiolo, but even I was blown away by this super wine - after all, it doesn’t feel its opulence comes from excessive new oak or from overripe fruit; it is just very concentrated, pure Gattinara fruit. Astounding stuff.
(94 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
I haven’t tasted other producers yet, but I’ve got one bottle of Rainoldi Sfursat waiting in my cellar.
Never heard of Sforzato. I had no idea it existed. I’ll have to try that!
Going to a dinner celebrating a dearly departed friend tonight. He was born in 1975, so decided to bring along my Masi 1975 for everyone to try. Level is a little low and the cork looks a bit tainted, so not sure it will hold up. I’ll report back.
That’s not just any Amarone, but Campolongo di Torbe, which has been consistently the best Amarone in the Masi range (at least to me). I’ve never been too fond of the Costasera bottling, which is underwhelming by any Amarone standards, but all the Campolongo di Torbe vintages I’ve had have been exceptional. And this from a guy who doesn’t normally like big, extracted reds.
Otto,
I had this Nino Nergi 5 Stelle Surzat 1999 in an Amarone tasting in 2003 (we also had Triacca 999).
The 5 Stelle was not rated that high (90/100) but the wine needed time.
In the same tasting, an interesting wine : Primo Estate - Mac Laren valley Coonawara Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot “Joseph Moda Amarone” 1998 (Australia)
Paolo Bea makes an interesting sagrantino passito in Umbria (recioto style).
I still have Bertani 1971 and 1974 in the cellar. Must get around to one or both, thanks to your note!
I can report that the 1975 Masi was still in the game, fighting. Certainly a more brick-like color and with raisins on both the nose and palate. Very rounded, still with great acidity, which surprised me the most. No hotness at all and actually didn’t feel like a “big” wine - felt light on its feet.
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Palate.
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Here’s a video of my long neglected, long forgotten, very minuscule Amarone collection unboxing after it arrived to my house here in the US after 15 years in less than ideal conditions:
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Cool unboxing Adam. Someday…
I noticed that you have Recioto mixed in with your Amarone…yum!
My daughters got me a split of 2004 Masi Amarone a while back, and I was in love.
I’ve got 50+ Amarones in my cellar, a couple of cases in a corner, mostly around 2009-10 that I will unbox sometime in the future.
We had a Dal Forno with our Anniversary dinner last year, and I’ve got Quintarelli Recioto for this year (with a 40 day dry aged rib roast/steaks in process now).
We went to Lake Garda last Fall and traveled into the Veneto Region to taste, and hit Quintarelli and Marion. Fabulous trip!
I think I have a 2006 Masi Torbe on the rack…I’ll go look.
Laurent…Sforzato?..Why do you do this to me??? I’ll report back later.
Thank you all for your input.
Randy, how did you get in to Quintarelli? We will be in the area in June.
Thanks Joel
Joel,
I looked them up on-line and called or emailed them, and requested a tasting
for a particular date. They were happy to accommodate. We arrived a little early
and walked around the vineyard. Fantastic tour and tasting. There were 8 people
at the tasting. Our guide didn’t speak English well, but that was OK. We paid
50 Euros each to a man who I believe was Giuseppe’s grandson.
My wife loved the last wine we tasted, a Recioto…so I got one for our anniversary
next month. Didn’t buy it there, I “acquired” it after we got home. Also, we tasted
at Marion, and I’m a fan of their wines. In fact, after we got back I had a case of
their wines shipped to me from an exporter in Italy. Incredible prices at the winery!
Be careful driving back…I blew out two tires on the rental car going down the hill.
We popped one of my two 1995 Masi Amarones last night. I was not impressed
at first, but it got better as it sat. We’ll finish it tonight, and I’m hoping that it has
improved.
Day 2, yes it has improved. Chewier, less acid, better integrated.
Randy, thanks for your quick & detailed response! I have had trouble locating their email address, but on another try just now, I was finally successful & sent them an email. We have already set up a tasting at Dal Forno & tentatively with Bussola this June, while we be in Verona. BTW, we recently had a bottle of the 04 Quintarelli Alzero which was a unique & delicious experience. Thanks again Joel
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Joel,
Have fun!
We didn’t get to go to Dal Forno (best wine I’ve ever had!) because it was
harvest season…in fact, we went to Marion the day after the last day of harvest.
Dal Forno seemed like it was a big deal, and costly. Bussola would be good.
The appassimento (I think) Cabernet from Marion is what sold me on their wines.
This year we’re doing a cruise that goes from Rome to ports in Greece, then
back to a few ports in Italy. Should be fun.
By the way, we rented a Trike from Lezise and went up Lake Garda to Trento.
Fun trip!
Randy