Opened a 2005 Ursules magnum last fall, needed a few hours to open up. Was pretty boring initially then exploded
i have a few friends that rave about these wines, but i have been let down more times than i have been thrilled. i feel like it’s probably best to stick to the blanc des noirs based wines as both the haute lamblee and boloree yet to deliver at least for me. i do like the 2012 ursules william noted and have drank quite a few which i bought from a poorly marked caviste in the marais for only 49 euro. a friend offered me a rose at 120 euro and i balked but with how prices have escalated maybe i should have given it a try.
Good to hear on some accounts if the old vintages holding up. I have a half case of 04/05/06 that I’ve been looking for the right occasion. I ordered a lot of mediocre wine from garagiste back in the day, but the introduction to Bouchard was the real prize for me from that mailing list.
Those vintages are showing well today, and now is a good time to open some.
I think the wines of today (and this gets to Brad’s point) are more vibrant and tightly wound than those early vintages—that’s simply a function of farming—so will show even better, longer.
Thanks for the kind words!
For me, Cédric’s wines hold up very well after opening, and in the glass, though I can’t say that they generally survive more than an hour at home. But when I’m reviewing them, sometimes I follow a bottle over several days and I haven’t personally noticed a deterioration.
Great article, thanks William, and great additional perspective, Brad. I think I’ve still got some '06/'07 of one or two cuvees and have been uncertain about how they age / whether they improve with age. The only cuvee I would confidently say always needs a few years is the “basic” Val Vilaine, which really kicks it up a notch 4-6 years after release. With the other cuvees I’ve found my preference far less consistent. Great wines. I recall one particularly eye opener - matching Creux d’Enfer with venison. Not your “typical” champagne!
If anyone has some 04-08 they’re unsure of, I’d be happy to take it off your hands 
Does anyone have a copy of this article that they could share with me (it is now behind a paywall)? I bought a bottle as a gift and wanted to share this with the bottle. Thanks
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Question for those who have tasted 2012 and 2014 Côte Bechalin. A merchant recently shipped some 2014 in an order that was for all 2012.
Should I gripe? It isn’t what I ordered, but if ‘14 is (at least) on par with ‘12, I’m inclined to let it go. Of the various other champagnes I’ve tasted, I generally prefer ‘12 over ‘14.
Thanks.
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Thank your lucky stars you got anything.
If you paid normal retail then I’d let it go. While I have not yet had them both I would bet the 14 is not a significantly lesser wine, just different.
The 2014 is very nice! So I’d keep it. And I’d ask if they could send some 2012, too.
They sent 3 each ‘12 and ‘14. I’ll follow William’s advice, which confirmed my inclination. Thanks!
12 is a bit more vinous and 14 a bit more fine-boned, but both very good wines
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I’m piggybacking on the latest discussion, but I also grabbed a 2014 Côté Bechalin, with a more recent 2021 disgorgement ( I also bought a 2019 Val Vilaine).
Should I wait before tasting it with room to improve or is it good to go ? Reading the discussion in 2020, seems like it is not a domaine that particularly benefit from aging ?
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I disagreed with that point of view in 2020, and continue to do so: Bouchard’s Champagnes age slowly, like still wines, which may disconcert people who expect the dosage-related chemical reactions that most Champagnes undergo with a bit of age (Maillard reactions, degradation of sugars to produce furfurals etc) and that account for those toasty, roasted, caramelized aromas. But they do age and improve. Of course, that does not impede them from tasting very good on release.
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I might try the 2014 Bechalin and leave the 2019 VV for later then
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That’s why I am holding onto my bottles as long as I can resist. An ‘07 Bechalin and ‘08 Boloree direct from the source were absolutely fantastic last year.
An interesting and well written article. I think however one puts an over emphasis on Bouchard, no question a truly great producer, but there are others who did a lot of pioneer work in similiar directions but do not get the credit. As I am now a subscriber to the Wine advocate and I have been reading a lot of your reviews, Aube really does come a bit short, especially the new exciting genreation of producers.
The new generation of producers in Aube deeply influenced by Bouchard, especially the low dosage/low pressure induced by a low tirage as a better means to express terroir is more common than one thinks. And although I don’t beleive there are producers qin the new guard at Bouchards level, a few are not far off.
Never the less good that a critic understands the relevancy of the maillard reaction.
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Who ya’ got? Drop some producers’ names.