Beaujolais for drinking at release?

[Robert_M_yers]

I drink a lot of Beaujolais and I’ve only ever had one bottle that I can think of where I thought it was backwards. (Clos de Metz). The single vineyards or luxury cuvées are often more dense and darker fruited, but to me they have not been unapproachable.

I wonder if because they aren’t cherry fruited zippy wines if some are taking this as they have to age? I am betting some of them can age and have a cellar full of them to find out, but for my palate I’m never afraid to open one too early. The fruit and freshness is usually there just in a different profile. If you prefer the lighter (traditional) style then just stick with villages or entry level wines from quality producers.

[Sean_S_y_d_n_e_y]

It’s been mentioned above I believe but the '19 Lapalu Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau was great this year - we had it on BTG at the place I work at and while it’s definitely in the “funky” camp and doesn’t hold up too well after being open for more than a day it had surprising grip and balance for wine little more than a year old. It’s not going to blow your socks off as far as complexity but it’s wonderfully drinkable.

[Markus_S]

I drink a lot of Beaujolais and I’ve only ever had one bottle that I can think of where I thought it was backwards. (Clos de Metz). The single vineyards or luxury cuvées are often more dense and darker fruited, but to me they have not been unapproachable.

This.

I haven’t had many crus that are unapproachable-drinkable in their early years like say, a Taurasi can be. Some can benefit from short-term aging to tame some of the newness, but the gamay grape really doesn’t have the tannic structure of the famous reds like cabernets and nebbiolos.

[William_Kelley]

…the gamay grape really doesn’t have the tannic structure of the famous reds like cabernets and nebbiolos.

Sure, but nor does Pinot Noir.

But, like Pinot Noir, Gamay can undergo amazing transformations with extended bottle age. Or, at least, it used to be able to do so when made the old fashioned way. And I do think wines from producers such as Bouland, Desvignes, Thivin and Coudert stand a chance of achieving the same thing, if you pick the right vintages. I actually lined up a 1971 Morgon to drink tomorrow and was thinking of doing an article on the subject.

[Robert_M_yers]

William, do you find them unapproachable early though. I’m often excited at the fact that there is potential in many, but I still don’t find them without merit when consumed young. Maybe that’s an unsung beauty of Beaujolais, one of the widest drinking windows of any region?

[William_Kelley]

William, do you find them unapproachable early though. I’m often excited at the fact that there is potential in many, but I still don’t find them without merit when consumed young. Maybe that’s an unsung beauty of Beaujolais, one of the widest drinking windows of any region?

Oh absolutely! And there’s a whole other kind of pleasure drinking them young.

[GregT]

But, like Pinot Noir, Gamay can undergo amazing transformations with extended bottle age. Or, at least, it used to be able to do so when made the old fashioned way. And I do think wines from producers such as Bouland, Desvignes, Thivin and Coudert stand a chance of achieving the same thing, if you pick the right vintages. I actually lined up a 1971 Morgon to drink tomorrow and was thinking of doing an article on the subject.

Bingo. I would love to try that 1971 Morgon. I haven’t had them quite that old but they rarely disappoint.

I realize I over-simplified the CM thing but that was in the interest of length. I edited a lot since the post was already way too long and I don’t want to irritate Mr. Alfert.

The story of the nouveau phenomenon and it’s origin is interesting in and of itself. Often overlooked by many is the contribution that Dubouef made to the region in general. I think he’s too often and too unfairly dismissed.

CM is used in lots of places - I’ve had some wines from Rioja and also Australia, where, if I remember correctly, someone patented a method using a sealed bag rather than the more common tank you describe. The problem is that although CM is associated with easy-drinking young wine, it’s pretty hard to do exactly right. The grapes have to be in really good condition and completely intact. As a result, it’s close to impossible to get 100% CM - you can almost never prevent the grapes at the bottom of your container from breaking open. The best solution is to let that juice run out as you describe, but I’ll defer to you here - I was under the impression that most people do just like you described Follaird.

For me Beaujolais is a little bit like Riesling. Some like it older, some younger, but it’s always pretty good. Rieslings I prefer younger, Beaujolais can go either way. I always wish I had more with some age but we end up drinking them on the young side just because they’re easy to enjoy that way.

[Kris_Patten]

It was long my understanding (perhaps incorrect) that the beauty of Beaujolais was that they were so appealing and approachable at release. Get 'em, drink 'em. More and more now, however, it seems to me that there’s a trend in these houses making wines with more structure that will seriously benefit from ageing. There was a recent TN in CT on the 2018 Thivin in which the taster reported it to be, “…brutally young and backward…” and this is a taster I respect. Perhaps it’s just the top Domaines and I’m not buying the right ones for near-term drinking. I don’t want to have to age every wine I buy. I’d like to be able to buy and drink some great Bojo young.

What are your recommended Beaujolais for drinking at release?

Costco probably still has some Maison L’Envoye Cote du Py 2017. Its tasty young and probably about $12.

[Jurgen_Steinke]

I had a 1990 Fleurie from Duboeuf from a cold cellar not long ago and it was still a fine wine. About 10 years ago I had a sip from a Beaujolais Cru from the 60th (Magnum size bottle) that tasted like a mature Pinot Noir.

[Brandon_R]

Great stuff, All. Thank you.