Bordeaux 2022

A little expensive, most not horribly so (with a few exceptions). There are some reasons for my reluctance to buy too much (leaving aside my advancing decrepitude)

  1. 18/19/20. Too much good wine already out there. I bought a small lake of 2019 on the grounds of very high quality and very low prices. With that coming in, there is just not as much of a need for 2022.
  2. Weird year. Frankly, if it weren’t for you, WK, and others pointing out some real potential great successes and the real advances made in handling these kinds of weather curveballs, I’d not have taken the chance on the vintage at all, regardless of price. Most critics - and you are among them - have been careful to point out the unevenness in the vintage. That boosted your credibility; had critics just said this was best ever across the board I would have set my headphones to “ignore.” Saying there are some best ever efforts amidst a range of outcomes made me take the ones you did extol more seriously.
  3. Saving my money for 2022 burg, because I am a flaming idiot. :crazy_face: *
  4. There are some wines I made the decision to buy in secondary in small amounts. One of them is Cheval Blanc. Yes it will be more expensive but I can’t justify buying more than a couple of bottles. And if the secondary price is too high I will just walk away - I have a very nice vertical of CB as it is thankyouverymuch….
  • and yeah, my cellar is about 50% burg, most 1er and GC, so I can walk away from 2022 burg if it’s as insane as it might well be.
2 Likes

I think this is big. There is a lot of good Bdx on the shelves right now or coming down the pike soon. As recently as a few years ago, this was not the case.

1 Like

Birth year for my son so I will be buying a few EP’s:

  • LCHB
  • Beau-Sejour Becot
  • Grand-Puy-Lacoste Caisse Variation
1 Like

Spot on, John. 18/19/20: too much good wine already out there.

It is a simple matter of offer & demand. Seldom have we enjoyed four-out-of-five fantastic vintages out there. Not enough money in the pocket to catch up!

1 Like

It’s been implied many times, but one can also infer (from following the last multi-year run of En Primeur campaigns and reviews) that winemakers are getting better than ever at handling strange weather, turning good wine out of difficult conditions, and managing/maintaining the vines. It’s definitely a bit of the greedy feeling one gets when they are on a run… but when someone like Montrose gets a 97 or above for 7 of the last 8 years, there isn’t the feeling that you have to jump all over the “vintage of the century.” One almost expects for more good years than bad in the near term, thus removing the urgency from 2022 En Primeur.

4 Likes

That also suggests that even if it’s hard to sell 2022 at these prices, eventually they will be bought over time in secondary. It will probably take a while for the secondary price to cross the initial EP offering price (with the obvious likely exceptions ).

1 Like

The “only” difference is that for a good number of years stocking wine has been cost-free for the negociants. But interest rates are not below zero anymore…

1 Like

Good point, and the same thing is true for buyers that have to give up money for 2 years in EP

Hi Jeff

I can only represent my own views, but I know for a fact that my views represent at least one not-insignificant part of then en primeur buying community.

I think there’s a few bits of context that need to be detailed out before I fully share my opinion. Obviously you will know all of these things anyway, but its nonetheless useful to share them just to frame the nuance around my answer.

  • Year after year, even in bad years, we are told how great these vintages are, how they trump the previous vintage(s), and how you don’t want to miss out on buying these legendary wines
  • Year after year, prices go up. The wine industry spends quite a lot of time talking about Blue Chip Bordeaux, or now you see progressively more ‘investment’ lens on wine (albeit reducing in the last year or so as interest rates go up and traditional investments return better) - you have Cult, Liv-Ex, Vinovest, etc, all producing “annual statement” style reports for return on capital employed, return on investment, etc
  • Paraphrasing something you said a while ago, but no chateau ever think they produce bad wine, and there’s no price so high that they would ever be satisfied

Against that backdrop, you have decreasing overall wine consumption, a recession, hundreds of thousands of previously highly paid employees losing their jobs. A stock market crash, which is reducing share schemes. Increasing interest rates, inflation above salary rises

I came into 22 EP thinking it would be a bit of a ‘miss’ vintage in terms of quality. I think I’m just about convinced that the best chateau have produced superior wines to what they have produced in recent vintages, but there are plenty of chateau producing no different to the same level, or worse, than their last few vintages.

With inflation at 5, 10%, with two years before wine is bottled, it needs to return 10-20% for it to be a useful outlay of capital, otherwise why wouldn’t you just wait until it is in bottle?

For me, this pricing from Bordeaux is insane. It’s sufficiently insane that it disillusions customers. Within 30 minutes of the Cos release, there were “private offers” at 15% discount to market price. One negociant said they haven’t sold a single bottle of d’Issan. Someone I know in the business was offered back-book “marketing development rebates” from negociants to push wines. The cos example isnt the only one, btw. I had “secret” offers on Palmer, Angelus, Ausone, and probably some other wines too. None of them were attractive enough to even consider pulling a trigger on imho.

There is still opportunity en primeur - the sell outs of Carmes, Carruades, BSB, Brane-Cantenac, Cheval Blanc show as much, but where prices jack 20-40% with no significant discernable quality improvement over 2019, 2020, then why would anyone buy the wine? Palmer, Angelus, Ausone, Cos, I’m willing to bet Pontet tomorrow, just scream of being completely out of touch with their end consumers.

No one is asserting these are outright bad wines - I’m sure many of the wines I’ve listed are the best they’ve ever been, or at least the best they’ve ever been recently. But when you can get 2018, 2019, 2020 all at a significant discount to 2022, why would you buy it? (As mentioned above, in some cases like Carmes, BC, there are compelling reasons)

Personally, I would almost wish that the chateau who can afford it do away with the pretense of en primeur. At the high end, it translates entirely into risk for the purchaser, with significant chance of no reward.

One comment I will make, as well, is that there is a certain level of disillusionment with critics as well. Whether its by the critics, or the merchants who chop and slice critics scores in a way to make sure wines sell, as I’ve said previously in this thread, no one is willing to call a lame duck a lame duck anymore. It’s always a marvellous, glamorous, extravagant aquatic bird that has done extremely well despite challenging circumstances - and priced for those words. I think the reflection on the Southwolds commentary earlier in this thread nicely sums some of that up.

For me, personally, if critics were more reserved with their praise, and a stellar year (hypothetically) like 2022 comes out, I would be less concerned about the price rises. But praise is often dished out, and even in the absolute worst case scenario, wines still score well but have “subtle hints of flaws” in their tasting notes.

For me, personally, EP 22 has summed up all the good things and all the bad things of en primeur. An informed buyer can do very well en primeur - my current calculation is 21% return on the money I’ve spent so far this EP. An uninformed buyer gets screwed left, right, and centre - and any industry that seeks to screw their consumer will not be in business for long. The ‘cost’ of these wines are so decoupled from their price, as well, that turning around and shrugging your shoulders and saying “inflation” just feels further out of touch. If the chateau were trying to pass on the impact of inflation on their cost of production, I’d get it - but, please, tell me - what’s the margin (to Lafite) on a bottle of Lafite? 80%? Higher? Someone told me they were told Lafite makes their wines all in for less than like 50 euros a bottle. 10% increase in the cost of production won’t explain the 15-35% increase in the cost of Lafite this year. 100% increase in the cost of production wouldnt. (This was a few years ago, so I appreciate its probably not the current figure, but you get the point)

Thre vast majority of wines, even “good” wines this vintage, will be the same price, if not cheaper in bottle - let alone accounting for inflation. Any sensible buyer is going to wait (exceptions of course for, e.g., people who live in countries where bottled Bordeaux is more expensive, or people who want to buy weird formats, etc) until the wines are bottled, see how they score, and see how the prices are justified then. I dont have access to the raw data, but I’m willing to bet the day 2022 Palmer came out, there was significantly more trade (in volume and value) of 2019 Palmer than 2022 Palmer. And that’s only marginally increased its market price since that day of release.

I can imagine myself buying, and drinking, quite a lot of Bordeaux 2022. But not loads of it en primeur. As you and I discussed a few weeks ago even - its capitalism. Chateau can set whatever price they want for their wine. Consumers can not buy it, move their demand to other regions, or wait until bottled and prices drop. Well, that’s exactly what’s happening. En Primeur Update: The Unrelenting Soar  - Liv-ex

En Primeur takings have never even come close to reaching the high set by 2010 EP. And I think they won’t for many, many years. See this - Bordeaux 2019 en primeur: a full report on this year's campaign

Apologies for the rant, but I hope it answers your question. It’s a real shame, because I love Bordeaux wine. But there’s no point buying it until I want to drink it - unless you choose very specific purchases and have the access to get those allocations. And to be kind of blunt about it, too, having to sit down in front of a bunch of charts and compare 2010, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2022 pricing to work out where you should be spending your money is just taking the fun out of Bordeaux. I appreciate the irony in this, but it is of course correlated - if EP was such a good deal every year that it was a no brainer, there’d be 0 interest whatsoever in the sort of stats and insight we produce over at my website [with thanks to the many contributors, many of whom are WBers themselves]. En primeur, to me, feels like “which chateau will screw me the least”, rather than a fun, passion-led season of trying to buy amazing wines to one day try.

As context/disclaimer on that, I’m about £7k into en primeur. This will be significantly higher than my spend in 2021, but way below 2020 and 2019. I don’t expect that to change too much - I’ll probably buy a couple of cases of Canon, depending on price, maybe some LLC and Montrose.

One last statement - that is always echoed for me. If you’re not paying for something, you’re the product. That’s very much what en primeur feels like to me now. You get bombarded by critics, marketing, advertising, etc etc all the way up and down the chain [wine XYZ is a MUST BUY this year - even before prices are announced. Protip - nothing is a must buy, without context on the price!]. Your merchants tell you how amazing a wine is, and then when challenged they say “Ah, actually yeah this price is awful, I wouldn’t offer it to my customers” (not a joke. I had this exchange with two different MAJOR merchants just today re Cos).

I think we’ll see LLC release at a ridiculous price this year. Don’t get me wrong, by all accounts they’ve made an insanely good wine - but they’re now doing LinkedIn marketing (lol) to stress how many 100 point scores their wine has received - the phrase “Unprecedented by any wine in history” was used I believe?

Retailers don’t make their money if wines don’t sell - they aren’t looking out for our vested interests. Chateau ban critics if they don’t publish generous scores. No one is looking out for the consumer. That’s why you see disillusionment with en primeur - and that’s why you also see some of the disillusionment (e.g. in this thread) with critics (As an entity, not singling any individuals out).

Many of the practises we see in the wine industry would be outright banned in regulated markets.

[Once again, really sorry for the length of this post]

24 Likes

this is a critical point as well - and one reaosn why I think prices will reduce for many wines when bottled, and over the next few years. Interest rates are significant. If you’re using debt to finance a £1m wine portfolio, your cost of capital has gone from £5k to £50k a year.

There’s no need for me to shill my site any further, I think everyone here knows it by now, but the Liv-ex chart is there. It shows that, since 2015, only 3 vintages have had positive returns from EP (2015, 2019, 2020) to bottle. And many of those vintages were priced in around the 2021 line - despite being significantly better (eg 2018) - with the increase that is on average in 2022, it’s a huge amount of risk. There’s a real risk of -10% value just through inflation over the next year or two, and also -20% correction to the valuation of your wines. You’d be crazy to buy randomly

@Jeff_M1 Pricing will be crazy I suspect! The later ones in the game are leaving it to creep prices up. As pointed out elsewhere in this thread “I sold all my stock to the negociants” is success for a chateau, most don’t care a damn if any consumers actually buy it.

2 Likes

Anyone have any insight into Clinet?

In what sense? Should you buy or not?

Wow, Henry! I suscribe nearly every word of your post!

Just adding on the interest-rates increase, EP buyers are in effect paying around 8% more to producers and/or negociants even if prices were flat (4% Euribor for 2 years). So add that 8% on top of the 15-20% price rise and the thing becomes just crazy.

2 Likes

Thank you Juan! :slight_smile:

With prices at +20% to fair market value, and inflation at 5%, over 2 years you can probably be out 30% on some of your EP purchases if you dont buy well. I’m not 100% sold on that yet btw - I’m not yet sure if some wines will regress to their historic means (QPR wise) or, their historic means will be pulled up to the current release prices. There’s definitely the potential for a game of chicken between chateau/retailers and consumers, but I’d say I don’t have enough expertise/experience with EP to make a call on that one. I dont think we’re at risk of a 2010 EP style collapse yet, though.

A terrific analysis for me, @HenryB . Really appreciate the references to back up your points. Well done!

3 Likes

Trust me on this, nobody has access to tomorrow’s newspaper today. The pros, or folks ITB have no idea if wines will be cheaper, or more expensive in 1-2 years. This is not to say buy, wait or pass. It is solely to remark that as soon as anyone claims they know what will happen, ignore them, as they, along with everyone else have no idea what the future holds.

There as a few things unrelated to the quality of 2022 that can increase or decrease pricing.

The world economy.

Exchange rates.

2022 in bottle scores. My bet is, almost every wine hits the top end of tasters’ scores, and my next bet is, many of the top wines are going to score even 1-2 Pts higher as barrel aging will add a lot to the wines.

2023 BDX, if it is a weak year, expect pricing on 2022 to remain stable or increase. Weather disasters. For example, there was a recent hail storm that decimated the 2023 crop in some vineyards. I do not think La Fleur Morange will produce any 2023. I am sure there are others in the same boat. That is not to say a few vineyards not producing make a difference. It is only to point out the capricious nature of agriculture.

The stock market. Stocks have been steadily increasing in value. When people feel wealthy, they splurge. When the market is slammed, consumers scale back.

Again, none of this is saying buy, wait, or pass, it is simply to illustrate some of what goes into pricing.

1 Like

To build on what you have said, there are 3 wines on my shortlist. I doubt the pricing on any of these will be close to what I think the fair pricing is based on what 2016/18 & 2019 is currently available for in the UK secondary market. E.g. I would buy LLC at UK GBP 1000/ 6. But I doubt the pricing is anywhere close to that.

I am sure the rebuttal that 2022 is massively better and you cant compare to those vintages is coming.

3 Likes

Well if those are the 3 you’re looking at, congratulations on not spending any money this EP🤣

I think all 3 will break recent historic releases. Two of the three I think will break recent historic secondary prices.

2 Likes

Henry… Great post, thoughtful and reasonable.

Some feedback on a few points. Nothing I post should be construed as recommending buying or waiting.

Year after year, even in bad years, we are told how great these vintages are, how they trump the previous vintage(s), and how you don’t want to miss out on buying these legendary wines

Wines are, or at least they should be looked at and tasted for their character, and at the top end, their uniqueness of character. Character and quality, while related, are not the same metric. Today, with the knowledge vignerons have, and the willingness to ruthlessly declassify, it is very difficult to have a bad vintage. Historically, until the '80s, at most, 2 vintages per decade were collectible, maybe less. Today, clearly, that is not the case.

Year after year, prices go up.

Everything goes up year after year. But unlike most luxury goods, estates cannot produce more wine. In fact, they often make less. Sooner or later, the supply-demand curve moves as more people covet the same wines., so prices rise

Paraphrasing something you said a while ago, but no chateau ever think they produce bad wine, and there’s no price so high that they would ever be satisfied

You are missing the last sentence, which is that no price is ever low enough for the consumer :slight_smile:

With inflation at 5, 10%, with two years before wine is bottled, it needs to return 10-20% for it to be a useful outlay of capital, otherwise, why wouldn’t you just wait until it is in bottle?

A reasonable conjecture. Though as I pointed out in my previous post, there are numerous reasons why wine prices will adjust up or down, or stay the same. Perhaps more importantly, you can always use that logic until you want to pop a cork. If you wait 10 years, will that wine be worth 50% more, 100% more, or if it stays the same, does it matter? IMO, once the money is spent, unless I want to resell it, I do not care what I paid, or what the bottle is worth. I simply want the wine in my glass.

But when you can get 2018, 2019, 2020 all at a significant discount to 2022, why would you buy it? (As mentioned above, in some cases like Carmes, BC, there are compelling reasons)

As a semi-reformed wine-buying addict, there are many reasons to buy. Obsessive compulsion disorder :smiley: Collector already bought those vintages. They want the style of 2022 in their glass. They have the money now and know they will blow it on something else if they do not buy the wine. Some people just like collecting.

Personally, I would almost wish that the chateau who can afford it do away with the pretense of en primeur. At the high end, it translates entirely into risk for the purchaser, with significant chance of no reward.

The easy solution for the consumer is to pass. It accomplishes the same thing. :slight_smile:

For me, personally, if critics were more reserved with their praise, and a stellar year (hypothetically) like 2022 comes out, I would be less concerned about the price rises.

That depends on who you read, or not. Frankly, the best thing for consumers is when a trusted critic raves about a wine, putting their name and reputation out there for the wines that move them! As for the wines, the truth of the matter is, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, and 2022 make a remarkable string of high-quality vintages. Until now, the best consumers were rewarded with were back-to-back vintages. 28-29, 59-61. 89-90, 09/10.

Lafite makes their wines all in for less than like 50 euros a bottle. 10% increase in the cost of production won’t explain the 15-35% increase in the cost of Lafite this year.

Cost is not relevant. All that matters is supply and demand. The same for every luxury good. Though Lafite could make the argument they are losing money. My guess is that Lafite could find multiple buyers for the estate at 9 or 10 Billion dollars or more. The rate of return they are making on a holding of that value is not very much.

As you and I discussed a few weeks ago even - its capitalism. Chateau can set whatever price they want for their wine. Consumers can not buy it, move their demand to other regions, or wait until bottled and prices drop. Well, that’s exactly what’s happening. https://www.liv-ex.com/2023/06/en-primeur-update-unrelenting-soar/

Sadly, there are few advantages to getting older. One is having bought stuff cheaper. As a bit of history, I started buying with 95 futures. First Growths were $125. In 1994, 90 First Growths were in the store at $100. By 2000, they were $250. I was shocked prices jumped that fast. But I purchased them. 2005 First Growths were $500-$550. Haut Brion came out first at $375. HB was the last First I purchased. 2009 was the last vintage I really jumped on as futures, though I bought some 2010, a bit more 2015, and then some 2016. That was it.

I am sure over the years, I made a killing! But I bought to drink, so when purchasing my thought has always been, is the wine priced at a level I can afford to drink? Not a smart strategy, but it worked.

Today, there are some wines I would buy as futures, some I would wait and grab on release, and others I would pass on. You seem thoughtful, educated, and into it. But wine appreciation is more than economics. It is about pleasure and passion, which is not always on the same page as economics.

I am not sure why Bordeaux is always about price, and other regions get a pass. But that is how the game has been and is played. I do not care. It is simply an observation.

if EP was such a good deal every year that it was a no brainer, there’d be 0 interest whatsoever in the sort of stats and insight we produce over at my website

I can tell you that with 2000 futures, you could double your money in less than 30 days. Prices jumped that quickly. The Bordelais left a ton of money on the table. With few exceptions, that never happened again. They deserve the money, not the consumers. That being said, that does not mean consumers need to buy futures either. It is a 2 way street where buyer and seller need to profit. Else, why bother?

I think we’ll see LLC release at a ridiculous price this year.

There are numerous reasons for that, some of it is about the wine, some of it is because they have a new President that wants LLC to have more respect in the marketplace and they have a new multi-year marketing plan.

Retailers don’t make their money if wines don’t sell - they aren’t looking out for our vested interests. Chateau ban critics if they don’t publish generous scores.

Retailers have until the end of the year to pay, and some get terms allowing them to pay on delivery. Very few chateaux ban tasters for low scores. It does happen. But not that often. I do not agree with it. Some writers are banned, but it is not for their scores. It is deeper than that.

Many of the practises we see in the wine industry would be outright banned in regulated markets.

Really? Maybe you are right. But in a capitalist society, what practices would be banned?

4 Likes