Loved Csalogany 26 when there 3 years ago. Delicious tasting menu, thoughtfully selected Hungarian wines for pairing, and friendly, earnest service. In contrast, we found Borkonhya pretentious.
Related note, we used Context (walking tours led by academics) and loved the ability to see some off-the-beaten path and talk with a knowledgeable local.
Wow, count me as a fan of Buda and Pest. Did you know they’re actually two cities?
Good lord, it’s cheap to eat and drink here. That’s a nice change. Beer, a pint is less than $2. Super safe to roll around late at night, well, at least until midnight when the metro stops running.
We flew into the Budapest airport and immediately purchased a 72 transportation pass that’s good for everything except the 100 bus, for whatever reason, which includes trams, trolleys and subways. The transportation system in Budapest is awesome. Super easy. We jumped onto the bus that heads to one of the main subway stations and then rode for a couple of stops and popped up at our hotel. Easy. The things to see and do cover a wide area so the having the pass is great, never a worry. BTW - we still waked about 20K steps a day but it’s nice to get home quickly, late at night, or when heading out to dinner. It’s very inexpensive.
We stayed next to the parliament building, great area with a few real nice restaurants and a tram stop in front of the hotel and metro abut 200 yards.
#link to place over looking the parliament building
https://www.google.com/travel/hotels/place/15006011360358426934?g2lb=1362999%2C4181926&hl=en-US&gl=us&un=0&hrf=KhYKBwjiDxALGA8SBwjiDxALGBAYASgA&tcfs=EhoaGAoKMjAxOC0xMS0xNRIKMjAxOC0xMS0xNlIA
The food scene is fairly cosmopolitan, there is a mix of high end, trendy, traditional, and street food. We tried it all. Budapest is a fairly new city as we flattened the place in WWII. Hungry was an alli of Germany in WWII until they realized they were losing then wanted out and Germany took over. There’s a “complicated” relationship with history and the actions of Hungarians. The revisionist versions is the “Nazis” took over and the Hungarians fought to throw them out. Yeah… Well until late in 1944 they were busy exterminating the Jews. They don’t talk about that much but there are reminders around the city to make sure nobody forgets. Unlike say Munich where you’d have no idea except for the sign off the autobahn for Dacau. This creates an interesting dichotomy. The Hungarnian people are warm, friendly, and as nice as can be. We’ve never been treated better by complete strangers. Also, IMHO, the best area of Budapest was the center for all the misdeeds, the Jewish district which is anchored by the Synagogue. The area was a ghetto and left in disrepair until recently but still lots of old empty buildings reminding you that lots of Jews used to live here. Maybe 20 years ago pubs started opening up in the area because the rent is cheap. The area is called the “ruin pubs” and it’s awesome. Now, they’re might be 500 pubs and restaurants with a quarter mile radius. High end wine bars, trendy restaurants, beer gardens, and the classic ruin pubs which look like condemned buildings. Szimpla Kert being the most famous of them all. It’s WILD.
Szimpla Kert
Budapest, Kazinczy u. 14, 1075 Hungary
+36 20 261 8669
https://maps.google.com/?cid=2771757573889662372
So now the area that was a blemish in there history is now the cool trendy hipster place to hang out. It’s “complicated”
We were there for the first time in early September. Food is good, wine is good, booze (Pálinka!) is good. Hungarian Art Nouveau architecture is fantastic. The Gresham Palace is the most beautiful hotel I’ve stayed in. Loved it.
I saw it mentioned above, but I would also recommend Cafe Bouchon.
