Indeed, thank you, Jeremy. Kermit Lynch imports these wines here and I have been getting them through him and selling them since the 2008 vintage, and I can’t remember Jean-Marc and Anne-Marie missing a step. For years, I have thought that the Auxey-Duresses Les Hautes and Santenay Blanc Beaurepaire have been among the best white Burgundies going under $100 and, until the 2018 vintage, they were about $50 (now $75). And, as you know, all the others, white and red, are of comparable quality. Following William’s Wine Advocate profile of the domaine which accompanied his notes regarding the domaine’s 2018s, availability tightened here and prices increased. Its great to her that Jean-Marc and Anne-Marie are such good people and that they are benefiting at least some by those developments.
Jean-Marc Roulot had quite bushy facial hair as he greeted us in the cellar to take us through the recently bottled 2020’s. It was part of him getting in character for a movie that he was starring in with Juliette Binoche. He was playing a forestier from the 19th century. He got straight into his alter ego as one of the great vignerons of the 20th and 21st century as we commenced the tasting.
2020 Domaine Roulot Bourgogne Blanc: This one is full of tangy citrus goodness. It is full and generous, fresh and very tasty.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault: This has rich orchard fruit aromas and flavours. It is dense and sappy in the mouth, but never heavy. There are gentle exotic things towards the back-end and it is beautifully balanced.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Meix Chavaux: A touch of spice to the aroma. Has the classic Meursault almond butter and pure white peach fruit. It is very fresh and very long.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets: Lemon and mineral aromas and flavours abound. It is rich with awesome tension. There’s flesh and beautiful cut to the finish.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault Clos du Haut Tesson À Mon Plaisir: 1er Cru quality here for mine. Great intensity of white peach fruit. It oozes minerality, has fabulous shape and is super silky. It is a wine of perfect harmony and wonderful persistence.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes: This is classic Charmes. It is full and generous, enveloping the mouth with sappy white peach and rockmelon fruit flavours. It has buttery richness and salty mineral tang to the long finish. There is real latent power here.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères: Rich and heady with the scent of citrus blossom. There’s some smoky mineral action too. It has dense white peach fruit and perhaps a suggestion of mango. It is voluminous, sappy and very long.
2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières: Such a fine and complex nose of Arum lily, white peach, citrus zest and flint. It is so direct, with incredible intensity and purity of fruit. It finishes with mineral and citrus cut and possesses phenomenal length. One of the very best whites of the vintage.
Jean-Marc’s right hand man, Paul Delorme, headed off to the far reaches of the cellar to open a few options wines for us. He ended up presenting a trio of Village Meursaults.
2018 Domaine Roulot Meursault: Just a touch of mineral reduction to the aroma. There are generous peach and apple fruit flavours. It is nicely balanced, fresh and vital. There are many 2018 whites starting to drink really well and this is one of them.
2014 Domaine Roulot Meursault: The nose is shy, with barely a whiff of grapefruit and some white flowers. It is tight and compact, with good intensity and a gentle nuttiness.
2015 Domaine Roulot Meursault: Roulot made very good ‘15’s and this one is humming along nicely. It is rich and heady, with fruit flavours that have been kissed by the sun. There is a pleasant, candied fruit flavour and good minerality. It feels lowish in acidity but is fresh and vibrant.
A few of you may remember the art installation I wrote about a couple of years back. It was essentially some large, visible words on the outside of the Roulot Domaine predicting the end. The Roulot team have taken the artists original idea and run with it to escalate a battle that started on social media. Another Meursault grower was essentially on socials telling everyone they should harvest late and make ‘old school’ ripe, heady Meursault. Jean-Marc instructed that Je vendage quand je veux… should be stuck up on the wall. I harvest when I want! We were each presented with our own T-Shirt advertising this. Colin’s was too small. Perhaps his should have said Je mange quand je veux. A few days later in Paris I was wearing mine and a sommelier said ‘you’ve been to Roulot’.
Nice, though rough on Colin–your son?
No, Colin is a dear friend. Older gent, slightly curmudgeonly.
Thanks for the notes Jeremy. What a relief to hear the 2020s from Roulot should be at least passable 
!
Have you formed any view on where the 2020s sit, say compared to 17s, 14s or 10s?
hilarious story well told.
Thanks.
A great domain. My last visit was in 2017 :
Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet 2016 : 17,5/20
Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Referts 2016 : 17,5/18
Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Perrières 2016 : 18/20
Jacques Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2016 : 19/20
Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Referts 2015 : 18,5/20
Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Perrières 2015 : 18/20
Hi Laurent. They are remarkably consistent wines, every vintage.
The Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet is a gem …
Btw, the same day in 2017 at the domain too :
François Carillon Puligny-Montrachet Perrières 2016 : 17,5/18
I’m not sure I have ever met a vigneron of more intensity than Bruno Lorenzon. In a good way that is. He has so much energy, passion and drive to make the very best wine he can. His vineyards are vital and alive. He plants at high density and canopy management is such that the vine puts all its effort into the fruit. Soil health is paramount. The cellar is clean and functional, and the fruit is respected all of the way through the winemaking process. He chooses his own trees to be coopered and controls every step of the quality process. He is a thinker and a man of action and has almost single handedly shone a light on Mercurey to remind the rest of Burgundy what can be achieved in this beautiful part of the world if you are completely quality driven.
This is a Domaine whom we are proud to represent in Australia and we have a decent amount of the wines in our own cellar. They are equally brilliant in white and red and the 2020’s are something to behold. You sense that Bruno believes these are the best set of wines he has made. There is incredible focus and purity to this set of wines.
2020 Bruno Lorenzon Montagny 1er Cru Le Mont Laurent Blanc: The first scent is that of chamomile. There’s lemon butter too. It is rich and textural with real saline minerality. The finish has chew and length to burn.
2020 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Champs Martin Blanc: There’s restrained exoticism here with notes of pineapple rind, mango and rich peach fruit. It has tremendous shape and power but is light on its feet. There’s plenty of underlying minerality and the finish is bright and so long.
2020 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey Le Chapitre: 50 % whole bunch and a nose that is so inviting. Violets, pomegranate and raspberry. It is full and flavoursome, with a finish punctuated by bitter fruit freshness leaving a delightful inner mouth perfume once swallowed.
2020 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Champs Martin: This one is 75% whole bunch. It is loaded with red and black fruits. There are notes of wild strawberry and cherry. It has serious chalky structure and awesome depth, with superb balance and proportion. Length of flavour goes on and on.
2020 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Clos des Champs Martin Carline: 60-year-old vines and 90% whole bunch. This is ripe and succulent, with blackberry and blood plum fruits. It has chalky grip and something cool and stony lurking below the flesh. It is a seductive wine of latent power with an endless finish.
2020 Bruno Lorenzon Mercurey 1er Cru Piece 13: A combination of the best old vine holdings this is extremely complex and pure. It has notes of violets dried flowers, sarsaparilla root and cassis. It is so silky of texture and voluminous. There’s a line of wonderful minerally acidity and the wine is 100% whole bunch. Length of flavour is phenomenal. It is delicious and beautifully balanced and will live for several decades.
i remember drinking his champs martin in 2015 and loving it…maybe 2012 vintage?
also love he’s a cyclist wearing assos off the bike.
Not much availability of the Bruno Lorenzon wines here in the states by the looks of it. Thanks for the great notes - I’ll need to try some of these at some point!
Sokolin has two of their wines which seem like better ones, I just ordered two of each yesterday.
never heard of him or seen the wines. Got to correct that second half of the phrase now!
Zachy’s has Lorenzon’s whites
Panzer also imports him
Had the same experience when we visited in November and was so thrill to taste his Bienvenues from tank, was very generous of him. Such a kind calm man - my visit was on my B Day. Later than day I was able to buy a bottle of the '18
I will be on the hunt for more of the straight Puligny… I enjoy that wine very much, and look forward to trying the '20 at home.
The new cuverie being built at Domaine Dujac is something to behold. From its cathedral like roofing, through to specific processing layout, the place oozes quality, functionality and high design. I’m sure the winemaking team are eager to get in there for harvest 2022 and give at a serious road test.
Jeremy Seysses was kind enough to meet us for a tasting of his brilliant 2020’s. Whilst Jeremy ponced around in the cellar, slurping on vinous treats with us, poor old Diana was slaving away doing all of the work. I hope he stepped up and pulled his weight after our departure. I’m sure he did, as all of us Jeremys possess a chivalrous quality. Our departure was drawn out by a long discussion about where to eat. This is a topic of conversation that we have spent many hours on with various Seysses family members over the years.
2020 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières: Just 12.2% alcohol, but also quite rich. There’s some struck match to the aroma along with white peach. There’s stony mineral lurking and a finish cut by grapefruit.
2020 Domaine Dujac Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes: Super intense and sappy, loaded with orchard fruits. There’s plenty of minerality, great shape and a long finish with a touch of saline.
2020 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis Blanc: Lemon curd, candied peel and mineral. Full, powerful and expressive. Already quite giving.
2020 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Monts-Luisants Blanc: This is really good. Tight and compact for now, emitting a bare whiff of lemon and flint. Good intensity, chalky structure and very long.
2020 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis: Raspberry and sandalwood aromas. Rich and layered with a creamy mid-palate. Cherry stone freshness to the finish.
2020 Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny: Black cherry aromas and flavours. Deep and succulent with a real juiciness. There’s a suggestion of licorice. It has real build.
2020 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 1er Cru: Great nose. Floral spice with red and black fruits. Real depth and expansive though the palate. Excellent persistence.
2020 Domaine Dujac Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes: Ample structure but light on its feet. Has cherry and plum fruits with some ginger spice. There’s a rich core of fruit. Should be wonderful after a long slumber in the cellar.
2020 Domaine Dujac Charmes-Chambertin, Grand Cru: Briary, ripe fruits trimmed with some sweet earth. Good depth and density. There are stony traits and balance is excellent. The finish drives on.
2020 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis, Grand Cru: A spicy nose of rose petal, sandalwood and aniseed. Highly perfumed fruits are perfectly ripe. It is direct and fleshy, expansive with a silky mouthfeel and fabulous length. Brilliant.
2020 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru: A touch of reduction. Very luscious and powerful. Such an intense core of fruit. Some earth and loads of floral spice. Perfectly ripe tannins carry the finish on and on.
2020 Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts: The nose is all red and black fruits and Chinese 5 spice. It is sensual and velvety against the gums, with exotic flavours. Despite the wine’s open-knit nature, it does have a strong backbone and theirs is something fresh and stony punctuating the insanely long finish.
2002 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis, Grand Cru: Strawberry fruit coupled with some earth and florals. Elegant and nicely proportioned. Structural elements are relaxed. In a really good place.
1999 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis, Grand Cru: Some forest floor development. Plenty of floral spice and a touch of licorice. Complex, with excellent fruit intensity. Excellent cut to the finish and savoury flavours linger. Super wine!
Thanks again for the notes, Jeremy. Any views on why the Malconsorts was served last of the ‘20s?
Cheers Rauno.
I think it is because Jeremy has observed that Malconsorts is actually amply structured and a strong wine. It fit perfectly after the CdlR in the 2020 tasting.
Regards
Jeremy