I tried a number of different places in Japan, but probably suffered from a combination of lacking a knowledge of Japanese, of having an opportunity to speak to the proprietor in advance.
That said (BYO aside), I am struck by how much of the Japanese cuisine would benefit from some really good wine–I dined at what was described at the best tempura place in Fukushima City, beautiful menu of delicate and nuanced tempura dishes just screaming for a high quality Riesling or even white Burg (my prejudices of course). Beer just did not cut it…
My favorite tempura place in Kyoto - small but serious - has quite a nice little wine list. We always order a bottle of champagne because nothing goes better with fried XXX than bubbles. Usually they have Delamotte.
The same with me. I had nothing but fantastic food wherever I was at in Japan. I remember going to an American owned restaurant along the Champs Elyse of Tokyo and having a Japanese Tostado that blew my mind. Unreal Japanese/Mexican/Vietnamese fusion… chef was super clever.
When the Japan Michelin Guides started coming out, a number of friends made the trek to some of the recommended spots here, and afterwards complained to me about this very thing: little to no attention to a serious offering of wine.
It’s just not traditional, and many places still are that way. The wine scene throughout Japan has changed rapidly in even the last 10 years, though… lots of great wine lists out there.
And, to add a contrary note to the idea of BYOB… if I were going to a higher end restaurant and didn’t have a very good “in” at the place (like a regular customer of the establishment who would call ahead for me) I would think twice about trying to arrange for BYOB.
I find that very often it starts things off on the wrong footing, with the establishment taking the request the wrong way.
Cheers,
EDIT: Of course, if the place openly offers a BYOB option (on its website, etc) then it wouldn’t be a problem.