I didn’t love El Ideas. Frankly, I thought the service was markedly better than Schwa (no wine theft and the staff was lucid), but the food wasn’t as good. The two dishes I remember most vividly from El Ideas were the french fries in ice cream (very enjoyable and fun) and five onion tarts in a row, which just made me go, “huh”?
The dishes at Schwa were better, but with the possible exception of the truffle ravioli, there was nothing that I ate that made me think “I want this again ASAP”. For instance, our first course looked like a tree branch with little birds (I’m assuming that’s what the mushroom were supposed to represent) on it. The mushrooms were good, but the branches…meh. Even the truffle ravioli felt slightly gummy, though the flavor was on point.
Mind you, I think haute cuisine is difficult to do well and while I enjoy it for what it is, I don’t crave it. Of the restaurants that would broadly fall into this category, I think Grace is far and away the best. The artistry and flavors were there and everything else (service, room, wine list) was great too. In fact, I daresay it was the most comfortable dining room that I’ve ever experienced.
Unfortunately, while I appreciate the creativity of these restaurants, I think that the food tends to lack soul. I struggle with this concept, because I hate the concept of “cooking with love” or other trite cliches, but every time I dine at one of these places, I enjoy it in the moment, but it’s an ephemeral feeling.
In contrast, 4 couples went to Restaurant Michael in Winnetka the Sunday (free corkage) after our Schwa experience and it blew me away. Disclaimer: while Rob Pollard-Smith chose the venue, I know Michael and he said he’d treat us right. That he did. We had a menu that was partly off the menu and partly selections he made for our party. I ordered a potato and truffle soup with sweet potato ravioli off the menu and it blew me the f*ck away. It was delicious – flavor was as good or better than the truffle ravioli from Schwa and texturally it won hands down. The rest of the dishes were similarly excellent, but the other notable dish was a truffle soufflé that was indescribably incredible. Somehow the warm, earthy truffle sauce contrasted perfectly with the slightly sweet dough of the soufflé. The dish was at once both modern and traditional. I daresay, it was magical.
A bit OT, but that dinner was everything I want in a wine dinner. Very good food, wine, service and most importantly people. And while the wines were very good, no one was rushing to line up bottles for dead soldier pics or hurriedly posting notes to CT from the table. Just a wonderful evening with wonderful people. And Rob.