Dining and lodging in Piemonte, Portovenere, Florence, Bologna, Venice, Verona, and Lake Garda

An_drew_Gelb · July 11, 2022, 9:27pm

Thanks for the amazing trip report, Andrew. This is pretty close to my dream trip!

I’ve only been to one place on your list, L’Osteria del Vignaiolo, back in 2006. It was not only excellent food, but one of the most memorable wine days of my life. We had spent a couple of hours with Teobaldo and Augusto Cappellano at their winery and when we asked a good place for dinner, Teobaldo said “If you do not have reservations already then you will have dinner with us!” So we went to Vignaiolo and had a fantastic dinner there. At the end of the meal I pulled out my credit card, and Teobaldo laughed and told me that they bought his wine at Vignaiolo and that my money was no good there. Despite my protests, he wouldn’t let me pay.

Nice story Marshall. I also had a memorable experience at Vignaiolo. On my first professional trip to the area, I had appointments with 5 very small producers in Barolo/Barbaresco (all of whom I work or worked with since). I saw their wines on none of the wine lists of the restaurants/wine bars…until dinner at Vignaiolo, where all 5 appeared. How to choose? Well, during our visit with Osvaldo Viberti he mentioned that he was able to acquire Nebbiolo from Cannubi just once - in the 2010 vintage. He told me he only had magnums remaining but offered me a taste. I politely but reluctantly declined . Sure enough Vignaiolo had 750’s of it. The next morning I called Osvaldo and told him I wanted all of his remaining magnums. (Footnote: since then, he acquired Cannubi grapes again only in 2017).

Anyway, its a very warm, comfortable place with gracious service and excellent cucina. Thank your for rekindling the experience.

Another great story about a place we really enjoyed! I have no idea when we’ll return to the region, but I know when we do we will dine there again!

A_Mishaan · July 15, 2022, 3:05pm

As an initial matter, other than some rides arranged by our first stop, the wonderful Hotel Castello di Sinio, we used “Daytrip” (https://mydaytrip.com/) for our city-to-city transportation throughout Northern Italy. We found it to be a very good and comfortable service. This was our first trip for which we did not rent our own car and did not get on any trains and instead relied upon the Daytrip network of very good, safe, friendly, and knowledgeable local drivers and their luxury cars. We prepaid for all of the rides, and everything worked very well. While I generally enjoy driving, we found it eliminated the stress one occasionally encounters on vacation when renting, driving, getting lost while driving, or trying to find your hotels in the crowded and ofttimes bewildering historic centers where they inevitably are located; not to mention the waste of then parking and storing the rented vehicle in each city until you head out for the next destination. In addition, we actually made friends of a few of our drivers. We highly recommend this service and will use it again.

Andrew, in addition to all the other great info in your posts, this is interesting to me. For our fall Milan-Bologna-Venice jaunt we would also like to avoid renting a car. I’m curious, did you use daytrip for any “touring” daytrips or just city-to-city? Trying to figure out the best way to base from Bologna for 5 or 6 days, and cover visits to places like Modena, balsamico and Parmesan producers, maybe Ferrari, and perhaps some out-of town dining (still doing basic research at this point).

Barry_L_i_p_t_o_n · July 15, 2022, 6:04pm

Train between the cities is a breeze. It’s only for outside that you will need transport.

I really enjoyed Ferrara, a good place for an easy trip from Bologna, with excellent restaurants.

An_drew_Gelb · July 15, 2022, 7:18pm

As an initial matter, other than some rides arranged by our first stop, the wonderful Hotel Castello di Sinio, we used “Daytrip” (https://mydaytrip.com/) for our city-to-city transportation throughout Northern Italy. We found it to be a very good and comfortable service. This was our first trip for which we did not rent our own car and did not get on any trains and instead relied upon the Daytrip network of very good, safe, friendly, and knowledgeable local drivers and their luxury cars. We prepaid for all of the rides, and everything worked very well. While I generally enjoy driving, we found it eliminated the stress one occasionally encounters on vacation when renting, driving, getting lost while driving, or trying to find your hotels in the crowded and ofttimes bewildering historic centers where they inevitably are located; not to mention the waste of then parking and storing the rented vehicle in each city until you head out for the next destination. In addition, we actually made friends of a few of our drivers. We highly recommend this service and will use it again.

Andrew, in addition to all the other great info in your posts, this is interesting to me. For our fall Milan-Bologna-Venice jaunt we would also like to avoid renting a car. I’m curious, did you use daytrip for any “touring” daytrips or just city-to-city? Trying to figure out the best way to base from Bologna for 5 or 6 days, and cover visits to places like Modena, balsamico and Parmesan producers, maybe Ferrari, and perhaps some out-of town dining (still doing basic research at this point).

Hello A. We used Daytrip for city to city. However, I believe if you look at and play with their website you’ll see that, after you put in your to and from locations, stops in between and tours are suggested. So, they likely can provide what you seek. That being said, there are many companies that specialize in the food (and auto factory) touring business. In 2018, we used Parmalook (https://www.parmalook.it/en/), and the day we spent with them was really terrific! For dinners out of town, you might ask your hotel for drivers; I am sure that can be easily arranged, and it is what we did for dinners and some lunches while in Piemonte.

And may I add, here’s a specific fantastic driver we now consider a friend, with a great car and who knows very, very well the Bologna (and the Veneto) region. Paolo Pasin +39 329 276 9132

Salute!

A_Mishaan · July 15, 2022, 8:35pm

As an initial matter, other than some rides arranged by our first stop, the wonderful Hotel Castello di Sinio, we used “Daytrip” (https://mydaytrip.com/) for our city-to-city transportation throughout Northern Italy. We found it to be a very good and comfortable service. This was our first trip for which we did not rent our own car and did not get on any trains and instead relied upon the Daytrip network of very good, safe, friendly, and knowledgeable local drivers and their luxury cars. We prepaid for all of the rides, and everything worked very well. While I generally enjoy driving, we found it eliminated the stress one occasionally encounters on vacation when renting, driving, getting lost while driving, or trying to find your hotels in the crowded and ofttimes bewildering historic centers where they inevitably are located; not to mention the waste of then parking and storing the rented vehicle in each city until you head out for the next destination. In addition, we actually made friends of a few of our drivers. We highly recommend this service and will use it again.

Andrew, in addition to all the other great info in your posts, this is interesting to me. For our fall Milan-Bologna-Venice jaunt we would also like to avoid renting a car. I’m curious, did you use daytrip for any “touring” daytrips or just city-to-city? Trying to figure out the best way to base from Bologna for 5 or 6 days, and cover visits to places like Modena, balsamico and Parmesan producers, maybe Ferrari, and perhaps some out-of town dining (still doing basic research at this point).

Hello A. We used Daytrip for city to city. However, I believe if you look at and play with their website you’ll see that, after you put in your to and from locations, stops in between and tours are suggested. So, they likely can provide what you seek. That being said, there are many companies that specialize in the food (and auto factory) touring business. In 2018, we used Parmalook (https://www.parmalook.it/en/), and the day we spent with them was really terrific! For dinners out of town, you might ask your hotel for drivers; I am sure that can be easily arranged, and it is what we did for dinners and some lunches while in Piemonte.

And may I add, here’s a specific fantastic driver we now consider a friend, with a great car and who knows very, very well the Bologna (and the Veneto) region. Paolo Pasin +39 329 276 9132

Salute!

Super helpful. Thanks again.

Ian_Sutton · July 17, 2022, 11:58am

It’s a charming city isn’t it, especially for anyone happy to jump on a bicycle to explore (it’s pretty flat), though walking also excellent. You can also drink wine in the same enoteca that Copernicus used to drink in, and it’s a good one, not the tourist trap it might be in a more touristic city.

A_Mishaan · August 10, 2022, 4:32pm

Any sense of how far in advance we should be looking to book restaurants for an early November trip (Bologna, Milan, Venice)?

Barry_L_i_p_t_o_n · August 11, 2022, 5:18am

Venice in November I don’t know, but 5 weeks wasn’t enough for Alle Testiere in late spring. Unless you hate fish, book online as soon as reservations open.

Ian_Sutton · August 11, 2022, 12:21pm

I’ve heard Milan can be a place where advance booking is advisable, but that’s going to depend from place to place. Venice I don’t know, but of the places we went to in Bologna, we typically turned up without a reservation, or phoned earlier that day. That’s normal for us though, as we don’t like a set itinerary, and I usually go armed with ideas for many more restaurants than we’re likely to actually visit - but that’s good for impromptu decisions about (for example) somewhere good for a lighter meal in a particular district.

I guess if there are 1-2 restaurants that you feel are major reasons to go to that city, then that makes sense to book well in advance, as it might irritate to think you’re there but can’t go. It doesn’t feel unreasonably early to be booking for such places.

A_Mishaan · August 11, 2022, 1:21pm

Done! Thanks for that.

A_Mishaan · August 11, 2022, 1:22pm

Any sense of how far in advance we should be looking to book restaurants for an early November trip (Bologna, Milan, Venice)?

I’ve heard Milan can be a place where advance booking is advisable, but that’s going to depend from place to place. Venice I don’t know, but of the places we went to in Bologna, we typically turned up without a reservation, or phoned earlier that day. That’s normal for us though, as we don’t like a set itinerary, and I usually go armed with ideas for many more restaurants than we’re likely to actually visit - but that’s good for impromptu decisions about (for example) somewhere good for a lighter meal in a particular district.

I guess if there are 1-2 restaurants that you feel are major reasons to go to that city, then that makes sense to book well in advance, as it might irritate to think you’re there but can’t go. It doesn’t feel unreasonably early to be booking for such places.

Thanks. Yes, I think we will leave plenty of days/nights open, but there are a few specific places I’d like to make sure and try to get to (thanks largely to the excellent reports here).

Yao_C · August 11, 2022, 3:25pm

I went in Nov 2021 and the popular restaurants in Milan filled up quite quickly, particularly Ratana and Contraste. I imagine that goes double this year, with travel picking up. Would definitely look to book as early as possible

A_Mishaan · August 11, 2022, 4:27pm

Thanks. Grabbed Ratana. Looks like Contraste hasn’t opened November dates yet.

An_drew_Gelb · August 12, 2022, 5:51pm

Others have advised about Milan, which is a city I really don’t know. I agree that you should just go ahead and try to book everywhere sooner rather than later, especially in Venice, Bologna, and Piemonte, if you’re also going there. It does seem like there’s a lot of interest in travel again, lots of pent up demand.

A_Mishaan · August 26, 2022, 1:13pm

Okay, one more question (for now): any experience with cooking classes in or around Bologna? Seems like there are a number of places, but hard to get a bead on what might be worthwhile.

https://www.cookitaly.com/

Zachary_Ross · August 27, 2022, 11:51pm

Andrew, thanks so much for this extensive rundown. I referred to it often on a trip to Italy that my family and I just got back from today.

We were in Florence and went to Frescobaldi - very good, and like you we would return. Also we went to Manarola by train and arrived about 11:30 and immediately headed up the hill to Cappun Magru based on your recommendation. Totally fantastic place, so charming and the food is authentic and delicious. The local anchovies are outstanding. Thank you!

An_drew_Gelb · August 28, 2022, 11:56pm

Zachary, thank you for the kind post, which made me quite happy. It’s a pleasure to learn my notes made a positive contribution to your trip!
Salute!

Zachary_Ross · August 29, 2022, 1:24am

Even more important, the lunch at Cappun Magru fueled us for an intense hike over the hill from Manarola to Riomaggiore. Utterly rigorous and downright punishing under the bright coastal sun, the hike was also life-affirming and afforded jaw-dropping views of both towns from about 75 stories above (according to my iphone).

bradkaplan · September 8, 2022, 4:23pm

Heading out soon… rough itinerary w potential food related stops, many thanks to this thread… a few last questions for the crowd: Any favorite places for a dinner in Bergamo? Anything (sights, food, etc.) from Riva del Garda down the west side of Lake Garda and on to Bergamo that warrants a stop? Anything on here you’d change out!??

Fri night in Florence - dinner at Coquinarius
Sat AM train to Cinque Terre, hike Corniglia to Monterosso, likely stop for bites at Bar Pan e Vin in Corniglia, Il Gattacio in Vernazza, and Cantina Pescatore in Monterosso before a sunset cruise, late night drinks at Enoteca Elisa
Sun AM torta Monterossina at Pasticceria Laura, hike out towards Levanto, train to Corniglia and hike on to Manarola, meal at Trattoria Billy or Cappun Magru, train back to Florence to hit up a wine bar late (Le Volpi e L’uva or Pitti Gola)
Mon explore Florence - dinner at Osteria dell’Enoteca (lots of notes on casual stops for gelato, sandwiches, markets, etc. throughout the day,
Tues explore Florence - dinner at Vini e Vecchi Sapori
Wed rent car and drive to Modena, visit Bio Reggiani parmesan then lunch and visit at Pedroni/Rubbiara then on Riva del Garda, likely dinner at Lido Palace hotel
Th hiking around Riva del Garda area, Ponale trail, eventually up to Rifugio Marchetti on Mount Stivo for the night
Fr hike back down, other hiking/lake stuff like trail from Torbole, dinner at Peter Brunel
Sat explore Lake Garda area then on to San Vigilio al Castello in Bergamo (pit stop before Sunday AM flight out of Milan), haven’t found a dinner destination to get excited about…

Odd_Rydland · September 12, 2022, 8:34am

Modena without the Ferrari museum?