In general I find a lack of freshness, or when a wine is “fresher” it lacks aromatic depth.
Not every grape belongs in every place.
Agreed . . .
I tend to buy South African Chenin Blanc when I am going New World -
Could be a great degree of the old one-size-fits-all winemaking. A region long known for making great ones will have figured out the “tricks” for the variety and passed them on to subsequent generations. Winemakers here don’t have that traditional knowledge as a starting point, and don’t necessarily have it planted at the most apt sites or know how to farm it optimally.
That doesn’t mean it can’t reach the same heights here. Some grapes have done better here than their traditional homelands. Some may do equally, but different. We also see wines from less common grapes being rediscovered in their homelands and making wines that far exceed the traditional, due to modern knowledge and more open thinking.
No doubt. There are other grapes that have champions (e.g. Sam Bilbro with Cortese) who have unlocked the code.
I’ve really enjoyed the Lo-Fi Jurassic Park and the Roark Chenin Blancs from my trip this past fall. Otherwise Sandlands Amador has been my favorite so far.
I’m in the Paumanok chenin blanc “like” category. From year to year they make a very enjoyable chenin that is right priced and down right delicious. In some years their “Minimalist” bottling is definitely a cut above from their regular bottling. My sense is that some of the west coast chenin blancs I have had seem to push higher alcohol and secondary fermentation which in my experience has not served this grape well in a wine form. Having grown chenin blanc for 6 years and making wines from it for 4 years is that not all the clones are created equal and that the ENTAV 982 clone carries more acidity. Would love to see more ENTAV clones make it here.
Also a Sandlands fan–not quite Chidaine perhaps, but when it’s on it can be very distinctive, lovely mouthfeel and aromatics, with good acidity and nice depth of fruit. Sometimes, for whatever reason I, too, have found it a little bit flat and muted, but when on, it’s outstanding.
Chappellet has been growing excellent Chenin Blanc for decades. I don’t see it much any more, but would not hesitate.
Dan Kravitz
There was a winery in Sonoma – Carmenet, I think – that made some really stellar chenins back in the 80s and/or early 90s from very old vines. There was some change in ownership or marketing (Carmenet was owned by Chalone) and that wine disappeared. (Probably planted over to merlot or something obscene.)
Pine Ridge in Napa made a decent one, but I haven’t had that in a couple of decades.
I know lots of people like that, but I’ve always found it sort of nondescript.
The Erica Orr Chenin Blanc Old Vines from Washington is a fantastic example of a sec version. Here is my note from the 16:
Popped and poured. Can’t rave about this bottle enough. My second, and it was just as good as the first. Really wooly, funky, broccoli nose. Absolutely loved it. Would have never guessed a Washington Chenin Blanc. A little juicy and cheek puckering with the tart quince and ginger notes. Smoothed out with a touch of ripe pear. Terrific bottle of wine. 92pts.
Looking forward to the 2017!
+1
Thanks for all the great recommendations. Chenin is really an underrated grape, which makes finding any wines, much less good ones, that much more difficult.
Kalin, Chalone are the best I’ve had. Mike Smith also makes a good one. Matthew Rorick also springs to mind. If memory serves, he made a sweet version a number of years ago that was quite intriguing. I would also give props to Craig Haarmeyer, who is making some nice restrained Chenin wines from the Delta.
I think you are remembering the Carmenet Old Vines Colombard Cyril Saviez Vineyard, a great wine. I don’t ever recall Carmenet producing a CB. The Colombard vines are gone now and I can’t remember who owns the property but last I heard there are some old vine zin still produced there.
Current release from Broc Cellars is pretty good.
+1 on Sandlands and Pax. Chappellet, too.
Chappellet, Sandlands, Chalone Old Vine and Pax in that order for me. Those dog days of summer in NorCal when its 100 degrees in August & September, Chenin hits the spot!!!
One more vote for Paumonok…As Gary pointed out, they make 2 different versions…my preference is for the basic Chenin as opposed to the Minimalist.
Another + for Sandlands, Leo Steen but want to also add a shout out to Kunin especially his skin contact Chenin
Oops. You’re right.
Never mind.
But, man, that was an interesting wine!