I’m also sorry to check in on this thread so late in the game, been a busy few weeks for me as well. But loved the read, tremendous thanks to Craig, Andrew and Chiara for organizing and sourcing wines and to everyone for their thoughts. FWIW, my own impressions over the course of about a year’s time on some of these:
Dinner in London, May 30, 2014 (blind)
“Mine was in a decanter for an hour, and that makes it prettier than last taste, with florals. Coffee later and quite a bit tastier and also gains fullness with time in the glass, some softness now. Later, the texture fades a bit, or more that it coils up, and an absolutely cappucino nose flirts with you. Simon and I had gleeful fun with the others, as there were guesses of New World when it was Morey St. Denis. Neither of them could believe it was a 2011, but this again is Maison Ilan 2011 Morey St. Denis Les Monts Luisants. Simon had tasted from barrel, but never from bottle, and he and the others were very appreciative. This showed well tonight.”
August 3, 2014 dinner in Atlanta:
"2011 Maison Ilan Mazoyeres Chambertin
I probably didn’t do this wine proper service, as I opened it to slow-ox for about a day before, and perhaps should have given it less. At any rate, I am happy with the aroma, which shows raspberries, dabs of cocoa and even this early, a touch of soy. On the palate, while it has its smooth quality after this time, I kind of agree with Dave that it’s missing some typicity for MSD. I get some earth and roots, but no “green” as I’d think of it. While this doesn’t show an extra level or gear at this point, I’m willing to give it some time. I may be in mild disagreement with Dave in feeling that it does have a good level of elegance already."
May 29, 2014 with Ray at the winery:
"2011 Maison Ilan Volnay Robardelles
My first chance to try the Volnay. Again, about 22 months in oak. At first tight and somewhat gangly on the nose, but speaks of plum and dark cherry with a dab of forest floor and later opens quite a bit, actually fooled me into thinking it was one of the moreys, with stones, earth and even a little gaminess showing to me. Mouthfeel is pretty smooth and starts with a cedary and sweet spices profile to to tart and nice berry fruit. Later, cherry, plum, a nice coffee accent and more fullness appears. I’d want to leave this for a few years at least—it came in at 12.3% and I guessed 13.2%, as I got what seemed like a small amount of heat in the middle. Overall, I was pleased.
2011 Maison Ilan Morey St. Denis Les Monts Luisants
29 months in those older oak barrels. 11.2% alcohol—wow…I’d guessed 12.1%, since it was cool as anything. Trust me, doesn’t suffer at all for the lack of alcohol. Coffee, chocolate, quietly in the uzzie. Deep dark plum and cassis underneath. Still very primary on the palate with blackcurrant jam mixed with boysenberry. I do wonder whether the depth will get there, but maybe it doesn’t have to—and the flavours do have some concentration to them. It’s more a question of guessing where the feel and texture will end up. As with the others, this opens up more in the glass.
2011 Maison Ilan Le Chambertin
This came in at 12.6%. Light mocha notes strike first, and then cocoa, earth and plum emerge. Ahhh—this is smooth….smooth. Good, solid balance, red fruits and some plum. Structure is there for many years’ enjoyment, but it also has a nobility of feel about it too. It is Chambertin, maybe a bit more demure than the 09 and 10 vintages…which makes a kind of sense. And it develops more complexity with each sip, always a good sign. Still hard to say if it will be a true superstar, but there’s certainly “very fine” potential."
March 29, 2015 at dinner in Toronto
"2011 Maison Ilan Charmes Chambertin Aux Charmes Hauts
Dave brought this, which I procured for him. I think this is my first try of this. Decante for 1 hour. A sublte cherry and strawberry bouquet, definitely no sign of wood or char. On the palate, it’s lacking some definitive personality at this stage, but it does have elegance and lift and found many approving—if not exultant—comments at the table. There’s a dash of sweet plum on the 2nd taste. It is hard to say at this early stage whether it’ll grow into its terroir, but it’s enjoyable wine."
A bientot, j’espere
Mike
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