Yes, I think there is sometimes a bit of a contradiction in the way we talk about white Burgundy, which is, on the one hand, to decry premox; and on the other, to open '15s, '17s, '18s today and complain about about a bit of oak or sulfites. For me, almost the whole interest of white Burgundy comes with bottle age (admittedly, I am professionally saturated with young wines, so any desire might otherwise have to try them is over-satisfied), so I am actually quite encouraged to taste wines being made for the long haul. And, if lots of people love how that style tastes young, with a bit of nutty oak and struck match and lots of tension on the palate, then so much the better, as that surely helps keep the business model viable.
For me, it isnāt contradiction but fear and lack of confidence that wines will age anymore. I love white Burgundy and I esp. love white Burgundy that is well aged. But, I donāt have confidence any more that it will age well and so, if they are not made to drink fairly young, when are they supposed to be consumed. I would love to be able to have confidence again in white Burgundies aging, but the confusion is because after many, many years the industry has failed us. I am happy to hear you solutions as to how to get over this dilemma.
Did the same with a 16 Saint Aubin 1er Champlots last night. Popped a glass for NYE and was typical PYCM ultra reduction - quite saline taut and very closed. Bang the cork back in and left it for 24 hours and now itās a different beast, lashings of creme, nuts and yellow fruits, whilst retaining that taut reductive edge and intense minerality. Bottle evaporated!!
I was hoping to get a little advice from other members. I wanted to try a PYCM wine and the only one I could find in CO was the 18 Chassagne-Montrachet VV. I wanted to drink in on Jan 2nd. Would it be wise to open today and let it breath a bit? Another option is to just leave it for a few years and try to find his St Aubin Le Banc or something else thatās a bit cheaper. Thanks
If you can source any other PYCM bottlings, I would suggest hanging onto the 18 CM VV. If not, just watch it change and evolve with air over a longer period of time. Little pop and pour in the morning perhaps and come back to it later that afternoon/evening
I tasted this at the winery with Pierre-Yves two months ago. It is quite tightly wound, but not inscrutable. I might decant half the bottle for an hour before drinking it, and then check in on the remaining half 24 hours later. But if you can find a vintage with a bit more time on the clock, that might have more to say: 2015 Saint-Aubin Le Banc, perhaps, or anything from 2013. Realize that this might not be easy, however.
Off topic, butā¦ William, do you know the exact relationship between Thierry and Jean-Marc? I assume they are cousins of some form, but cannot find the exact relation. Also, how do you think the wines compare, or is that too difficult of a question to answer here? Thanks in advance!