We are at a point where the premium for critic favorites are extreme. Producers like Rousseau, Mugnier and Roumier, for example, make great wines but there are a number of other producers who, IMHO, also make great wines from the same appellations that sell for a fraction of the price.
For example, Rousseau Chambertins go for about $1500-2000. Those from Rossignol-Trapet go for $200-300.
Roumier les Cras sells for $300-500 or so. Barthod for $150-200.
Mugnier Fuees sells for $250-300. Jadot for a bit over $100.
Great, thoughtful first post here, Martin (praise for me aside ). I hope youâll stay and contribute more.
Part of the difficulty is that these wines are made in tiny qualities, and few if any of us get to try (or, frankly, have tried) them extensively as they move from youth to middle age to full maturity. Your point about the 99 LSJs is one that I have raised on occasion - certain producers were deemed as âoveroakedâ during that era and vintage. Mortet being one, and Perrot-Minot certainly being another. I have not been able to track Mortet much past 05, but I have been able to taste the evolution of Perrot-Minot from the mid-90s until now, and there has been a significant evolution in style from (by Christopheâs own admission) from genuinely over-oaked and extracted to much more gentle handling now (I would say 04 forward, with 06 being a more certain breaking point). However, most consumer-based criticism of P-M discusses the style of a different and earlier era.
I think itâs worth approaching great wines like these with less certainty about any hierarchy. It has served me well in exploring.
I do think deliciousness and authenticity overlap. I happen to think some of the misguided professional criticism of DRC stemmed from (pun somewhat intended) being hard to approach young. Rousseau is, in my admittedly limited experience, been among the most approachable early of the âgreatâ producers.
What makes âtraditionâ in Burgundy seems like a minefield (h/t RMP) - though a fun one if no one takes differences of opinions personally.
Also, while my Rousseau experience is largely limited to Chambertin/Beze/ClosSt.Jaques, every Rousseau Iâve had has been pretty damn amazingly delicious.
Totally agee ⌠if it is what bungundy lovers are look for : pretty dam amazingly delicious; but⌠âŚPierre Damoyâ Bezs and Chambertin âŚare wines for conptemplation
As Roussseau is one of the best Domaines in all of Burgundy, Iâm not sure how they can be overrated?
Anyway, at a personal level, when I think of all of the peak or epiphany moments Iâve had over the years with red Burgundy, the Domaine that has provided the most of those is Rousseau.
Whether they are good QPR or what percentage of the âRousseau experienceâ you can get cheaper from other houses, seem like different questions to me.
If we change the original topic to âoverpriced by U.S. Consumers,â do we have perhaps a more useful discussion?
I went out with my younger brother a few nights ago. He was wearing a custom Isaia jacket, vs. my more mundane Canali coat. He paid about 20 times more for his jacket than mine (I guess?) - and Iâm sure it was finer. No one cared except him.
Could this also be the case that because of âreputationâ, the estate will always be âhighly ratedâ, regardless of whatâs âinside the bottleâ? That certain producers in Burgundy are âgiven the benefit of the doubtâ with regards to perhaps a wine ânot showing well so it must be shut downâ versus another producer, who in the same case would be panned for their wines showing the same way? We know that happens here all of the time. There is a âself fulfilling prophecyâ so to speak . . .
Reminds me of when I worked for another winery - and our âbest lotsâ would always go into the tanks for fermentation that we considered producing the best results. But what if some of the âlesserâ lots when into these - would they then become âbest lotsâ?
You can look at current threads and see people enjoying wines that they did not enjoy young - but âkept with them because of producerâ - whereas others that did not show well when young were âwritten offâ.
Nah, Charlie. That is way too reductive and silly. This is, in theory, a discussion between people who experience Grand Cru Burgundy with some regularity. Letâs put that talk into the proper context. We should, in theory, all be able to discuss quality and value on the topic without heading off to Trader Joeâs for trash for no good reason.
Yet youâve avoided the question at hand. Is Rousseau over rated by critics?
Price doesnât come into consideration when ârankingâ wines for quality. Regardless, nowadays you canât get 6 Trapet Chambertin for 1 Rousseau Chambertin. Itâs closer to 1:2/3 on release. Critics exist in a vacuum where they are ranking wines without consideration of price.
I think others have covered all the bases, but I will chime in to say- based on personal experience- I do believe that Rousseau is truly one of a handful of consistently great producers that regularly achieves that extra bit of âspecialnessâ which merits the incredibly strong demand for the wines.
Disagreeing with some, I would further say that praise is deserved across pretty much the entire portfolio (with the caveat I have very few TNs for either the Mazi or the Charmes.) The Ruchottes is a particular favorite of mine.
Further, Rousseau can really make knockout wines in so-called âoff vintagesâ. The 1994s were quite good, and one of my fondest memories of the past decade was a brilliant 1986 Chambertin at full maturity and in full cry- so to speak.
Oh, if you want me to be blunt, I can. No. Theyâre genuinely great wines. Again, Iâm not discussing 2BC - thatâs your thing so farâŚ
Itâs when we pretend thereâs some massive qualitative gap between Rousseau and Trapet that I think these discussions get silly. Thatâs where I buy the critics a little more than the consumers, because, as you note, itâs the consumers who have to pay up for the qualitative difference, and if you think that paying a lot more for Rousseau doesnât extend the payerâs hopes and faith in the wineâs qualities, and if you think thereâs not a small group of buyers that collectively reinforce that groupthink, wellâŚyou arenât moderating this board (or buying Burgs for 20+ years).
Not saying that Rousseau might not be more inherently pleasing. Glad to hear that Trapet has closed the price gap. Nice guy.
I really do agree with this thought. We want what we like to be âthe bestâ, and when a good/ great winery becomes popular now it seems to go beyond
what is in the bottle.
Roulot and Clos Rougeard are both wines I have loved a long time. But both seem to have developed into wineries where reality blurs a little bit these days.
That said, Rousseau has provided me with more of my superlative Burgundy experiences than any other Domain. I wish my sample group was bigger but they are my top Burgundy producer.