Saving Old Vineyards - Economics vs Heritage

Thanks, Tom, Mike, Sean, Ken, and Robert!

I think that y’all are all touching the roots of the issue here. Some of your suggestions and examples are echoed in Caparoso’s follow-up article (above) on saving the vineyards of Lodi.

Yes, some orange trees still grow in Orange County, but that’s hardly the dominant feature of the area (my brain casts back to the images of “Chinatown” and “The Two Jakes” - “This whole area used to be orange groves”).

The waxing/waning of the grape market is a strange thing that we wine buyers may never fully grasp. Consider this article from 1996…

“Old-Vine Wines: In Praise of Reds: Savoring the Taste of Tradition Among Sonoma County’s Time-Honored Wines”*
By Steve Bjerklie

"It seems probable a few of the portion of those 43 million vines from 1873 that were planted in Sonoma County might have survived. If so, they’re likely to be discovered soon. Prices for grapes from old vines have increased dramatically, especially for zinfandel. ‘When we sold the grapes to Christian Brothers for $35 a ton, my dad said we had to go into the wine business,’ remembers Harry Parducci. ‘There was no way to make money in grapes at $35 a ton. Now the price is way up there, over a thousand a ton. I can hardly believe it. But I think it does these old grapes‡ right.’"

The link in the original article reveals several contemporary examples of old-vine Zinfandel wines, as well as some other bottlings made from other old vineyard fruit. Some of these vineyards no longer exist. :frowning:

Many old-vine plantings across the state have attained sufficient public adoration to ensure their short-term future. I wonder what it takes to achieve the level of prestige enjoyed by famous sites like the Old Hill Vineyard, the Jackass Hill Vineyard, or even the Evangelho Vineyard.

How many vintages from how many wineries are needed to make a viticultural site valuable enough to keep in the ground?

  • The focus of this article is on the boom that old-vine Zinfandel vineyards - particularly Sonoma County sites - were experiencing in the '90s. A few of California’s Zin winemakers are highlighted, including Joel Peterson of Ravenswood, Gordon Binz of Renwood, Kent Rosenblum of Rosenblum, and Harry Parducci of Valley of the Moon, are featured. Even Sean Thackery, whose blends showcase non-Zin old vineyard fruit, gets to share his praise on the merits of ancient plantings.

‡ Is Mr Harry Parducci speaking of what would become the Bedrock Vineyard?

I found a cool website called Eve101, which includes several Historic Vineyard Society event reports (written by Eve Bushman or Michael Perlis):

http://evewine101.com/tag/historic-vineyard-society


Also…

From the “Winter 2017 Historic Vineyard Society Newsletter”:

“Shop using AmazonSmile, where .5% of every eligible order will be donated to HVS. To get started, visit smile.amazon.com, then search for and select Historic Vineyard Society. Every penny counts!”

I received an email from Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) with this article mentioned:

Washington Post
“How Can Producers Secure Zinfandel’s Future? By Looking to the Past.”
by Dave McIntyre
February 23, 2018

The Heritage Vineyard Project was started in 1995. Cuttings from 90 old-vine vineyards from across California were initially selected for trials in an Oakville vineyard. That number went down to 20, then finally to 4:

• Moore
• Teldeschi
• Zeni
• Lytton

“‘The differences among the four selections are subtle,’ says Joel Peterson, founder of Ravenswood Winery and one of the most famous zin producers. (He is also Twain-Peterson’s father.) And the differences seem to be dependent on where the vines grow. ‘We now know how zinfandel expresses itself and the important role site plays in that expression.’

“The answers aren’t yet definitive. ‘We believe the Heritage Vineyard Project is 20 years into a hundred-year effort,’ says Rebecca Robinson, ZAP’s executive director. ‘Our goal is that zinfandel will thrive for many more generations, even though the original vineyards will one day be a distant memory.’”

The message seems to be that all the vineyards that many people are striving to preserve will one day be gone. The cuttings from those sites will ultimately represent the region’s where they are propagated, via climate/geology/etc, nullifying any imprint of the original vineyard.

I feel a little fatalistic after reading this ashes-to-ashes article. :frowning:
LimerickLaneVines1.jpg

I dunno, seems to me that the demand for heritage vine Zin is accelerating, and the era of preservation is now. Even this thread goes a long way toward that important goal. Think if this thread reaches five people, introduces them to something like Bedrock. And those five introduce heritage vineyard wines each to five others, and so on. I only see positive!

Two Older Articles on the Preservation of Old Vineyards:

SF Gate
“Saving California’s Heritage, One Vine at a Time: Historic Vineyard Society’s Mission is to Stop Uprooting the Past and to Start Protecting It”
by Jon Bonné
October 29, 2012


"Old buildings have historic protections, but no such thing exists for old vineyards. Many have been plowed under into subdivisions in recent years, although conservation measures in Napa County and Livermore protect agricultural land, and California’s Williamson Act can provide tax relief to farmers.

"Those merely preserve land against development. Nothing, aside from a sense of history and potentially higher fruit prices, encourages owners to keep old roots in the soil, although the society’s board, which also includes enthusiast Mike Dildine and writer Jancis Robinson, has discussed seeking tax breaks for heritage vineyard owners.

"…'Unfortunately, it does come down to economics. A grower will look at an old vineyard of his and say, “Well, I’m only getting 2 tons per acre and $4,000 a ton,” explains [Mike] Officer. ‘So a lot of time these vineyards are being preserved mostly because of emotional attachment.’

"…Even old vineyards need upkeep…Large stretches of missing vines haven’t been replanted. Factor in the inevitable viruses that emerge - Petite Sirah is particularly vibrant with the crimson leaves that signal leafroll - and meager yields, and the economics become worrisome. Old farming families will put up with lesser returns but also are hesitant to invest in upkeep. So when the land is handed down, the next generation frequently sells it to new owners who inevitably plant something more lucrative.

“And, of course, vines can’t last forever. That’s why replacing individual vines is so crucial; it’s a common process in European vineyards - and why, in the case of Library [Vineyard], Turley created a vine-by-vine replica on its nearby property, just in case the Library doesn’t survive.”

meadranch_blog-600x400.jpg
SF Gate
“Assembly Votes to Honor Historic Vineyards”
By Jon Bonné
April 15, 2013

"Lawmakers approved the resolution, HR 9, on a voice vote, with no opposition. Proposed by Assemblyman Tom Daly, D-Anaheim, the move has solely symbolic value, but it is a significant step for vineyardists in the state who are hoping to keep antique vines in the ground.

"‘California wine is a wonderful success story that is still proceeding,’ said Daly, who introduced the resolution earlier this year. ‘And many of the backstories are still being discovered and told. It’s as rich as anything in our state in terms of tradition.’

“Given the state’s fondness for frequent replanting, it can be harder than it might appear to preserve old vineyards. In 2010, several prominent vintners, including Ridge Vineyards and Turley Wine Cellars, created the nonprofit Historic Vineyard Society, in part to create a registry of more than 200 sites throughout California that date back as far as the 1880s, or earlier. Their hope is to find incentives to keep these old vines in the ground, perhaps a tax break, but the legislature’s vote is a first official step.”

This page from my website has been dormant on my for the last year or two and i just made it active again. Hope it adds to the discussion. Even the “Alien Autopsy- quality” video of my interview with Morgan Twain-Peterson shot in low light. http://www.purelydomesticwinereport.com/historic-vineyard-society/

1 Like

Thanks, Doug!

One way that prized old vineyards are lost is through natural disasters, like the fires that ravaged many regions of California in 2017.

Mendocino Wine & Winegrapes website
by Bernadette Byrne
“Mendocino County Redwood Complex Fire Impact”
October 11, 2017
Redwood Complex Fire Oct 11 2017.jpg
I have not read much on the specific vineyard losses in Mendocino County, but I encountered a couple of articles on the recovery efforts:

Press Democrat
“Hope and Loss Mark Recovery in Fire-Scarred Mendocino County”
by Paul Payne
March 3, 2018

All [u]Press Democrat[/u] articles on the Sonoma/Napa/Mendocino Fires

There is no question that the loss of human lives is of greater importance than that of cultivated acreage. Nevertheless, if I wish to consider the different factors that threaten the viticultural heritage of America, the fires that recently struck the West Coast have a part in the story.

One unusual method of preserving an important grape growing site is to manually transplant the numerous vines to a more commercially/geographically secure location.

As absurd as one might think this strategy, it has been done. One hundred year old vines in the Contra Costa city of Oakley were dug up, trucked a few blocks from their original home, and carefully replanted in a spot that was not at-risk for development in the foreseeable future.

East Bay Times
“Oakley Finds New Home for Century-Old Grapevines”
Rowena Coetsee
February 22, 2011

"Council members recently agreed to use a 5.7-acre parcel on Walnut Meadows Drive near the Vintage Parkway subdivision to preserve these [Alicante Bouschet] vines; on Tuesday, they voted to lease the property to a farm-management company that cultivates grapes.

"…It makes more sense to preserve the remaining vines in town than replace them with buildings and try to mitigate that loss by buying farmable acreage outside city limits, said
[Kevin] Romick, a member of the council’s agriculture mitigation subcommittee.

"…Once it has signed the 10-year lease, Mulehead Growers will have to act quickly; the vines will remain dormant for only another month,
[Alan] Lucchesi said.

As the days grow warmer, the plants become more sensitive to the shock of being uprooted, he said.

About 20 percent of grapevines that are transplanted don’t survive, and it takes at least one year for them to produce fruit again, City Manager Bryan Montgomery said."

Kevin Romick’s Blog
“Saving Oakley’s Heritage”
March 31, 2011
image18.jpg
This overview of the transplantation of the old DuPont site’s Alicante Bouschet vines to the new Walnut Meadows Vineyard provides a more specific breakdown of the project.
image7.jpg
image2.jpg
image522.jpg
Romick in Oakley blog
“Harvesting 100 year Old Vines”
September 19, 2012

“…Although there was a small harvest in the first year, about 2 tons, this year’s bounty was around 9 tons.”

Do I believe that transplantation of an ancient vineyard is a viable, broad-scope solution to the problem of overcrowding due to residential/commercial development? No.

In fact, I never thought this sort of thing was possible before I read the articles and watched the video of the project!

A recurring theme in the struggle to preserve family-owned old vineyards is the question of sustaining a legacy.

As folks try to pass on the torch to the new generation, often there is a reluctance among the children to adopt responsibility for a precarious source of income that accompanies a high level of work for ever-diminishing returns. It appears that it is becoming easier for the kids to seek a living somewhere else in a different field of labor.

Once a multi-generational chain of vineyard ownership/management is broken, the future of an ancient plot of grapevines is cast to the winds of fate.

Will the land be passed on to a new owner who wishes to protect the aged vineyard, or will it be purchased by an individual or company with different plans for the land?

Growing up in Northwest Louisiana, my best friend’s family owned many acres of cotton fields, admittedly only since the early 1900’s. The children were not interested in living out their days on the same property that they were raised. Though each sibling had spent years learning the in’s and out’s of the trade, the great big world was calling out to the three of them.

Though the number of small American farmers has been continually shrinking, some youths remain proud of carrying on the legacy of their forefathers, or are pursuing agriculture for the first time:


The Press
“Growing a New Generation of Farmers”
Amy Schrader
January 16, 2014

"…When [23-year-old Larry] Gaines, who started Brentwood’s Community Garden, met FGF’s [First Growth Farmers] co-founder Alli Cecchini, a fourth generation traditional farmer, the idea of combining traditional farming with urban-organic farming methods grew roots.
52d823eb7117e.image.jpg
"In October of 2012, Gaines started Brentwood’s Community Garden through his nonprofit organization Thirdeye Coalition. The garden space was donated to them by a nonprofit youth center called The House, located at 130 Sunrise Drive in Brentwood.

"In June of 2012, Gaines and Cecchini started FGF on 10 acres of land donated to them by Cecchini’s family.

"The Cecchini family started farming in Lucca, Italy in the late 1800s. When they moved to California in the early 1900s, they started growing asparagus. Bob and Barbara Cecchini, Alli’s parents, are the last asparagus growers in Contra Costa County.

“‘We want our community to be involved with growing its food and helping its local economy,’ says Gaines. ‘We are losing too many farmers and think this is a great outlet for people of all ages to get connected not just to dirt and food, but to each other, the environment, society, agriculture, heritage, learning and teaching.’

"…The goal is to create a local community food system while growing a new generation of farmers. They not only cultivate and harvest organic specialty crops, but also teach people how to farm.

“…‘Small family farms are becoming less and less prevalent in this country,’ says Ron Enos, a fifth generation farmer in Brentwood. ‘They are in the early stages of extinction.’"[/i]


This article doesn’t tell of young men and women who are dedicated to viticulture, but there is a small population of Americans who are celebrating the heritage of grape-growing.

I was astounded at the story of the owners of Mendocino County’s “Poor Farm”.

Also, on social media, it is possible to see the promising signs of newer vineyard owners establishing new legacies in vineyard ownership and, in turn, preservation.
:slight_smile:

The economic aspect of growing winegrapes sometimes is not about heritage, a traditionally romantic lifestyle, or anything else but survival.

Western Farm Press
“Bulldozed Vineyards Yield Way to Almonds, Other Crops”
by Dennis Pollock
November 23, 2014

"Once again, bulldozers are rumbling through Central Valley vineyards in California taking out thousands of vines, just as they did a little over a decade ago.

But the mood is different this time around after a year in which wine grape growers with long-term contracts fared far better than those without.

"…The reasons: Higher land values and increased equity put owners of vineyards in a better position. And other crops - led by almonds - afford growers of wine grapes better alternatives.

"Several speakers made those points at a forum presented by the association in Fresno, where attendees also learned that the University of California has made or is in the process of making several significant hires in the viticulture research and advisory arena.

"Jeff Bitter, vice president of Allied Grape Growers, said the number of dozers in the vineyards could simply be due to eagerness by some to switch to almonds or another crop. He said Allied estimates between 15,000 and 25,000 acres will be taken out this year.

"…Bottom line: The net was $4,500 for almonds, $2,550 for grapes.

"…A virtue of wine grapes grown under contract, he said, is price stability.

“‘It’s one of the few areas where you can lock prices in under a long-term contract,’
[Rory Robertson, executive vice president and CEO of horticultural crops with Westchester Group Investment Management] said.

"He fully expects almond prices will decrease, but admitted, ‘I’ve been wrong about that before.’

"…Competition was particularly tough in the low-priced wine range of under the $3 a bottle or even $7, said Matthew Towers, chief operating officer of O’Neill Vintners and Distillers.

“In that category, Towers said, ‘Consumers don’t care where a bottle of wine comes from.’ That, he and Bitter said, makes it hard for California producers to compete with imports in that category.

“‘We need to find ways to insert our wine into bottles selling at higher price points,’ Bitter said.”

I know that one typically doesn’t consider the Central Valley when reflecting on the presence of old-vine grape plantings in the West Coast. This region is primarily a commodities market.

What baffles me is the bevvy of contradictory advice and information on the value of winegrapes, a crop - like almonds - that requires years of waiting for a viable return on one’s investment.

Short of posting the entirety of this article, I am sharing only the link and a couple of pertinent graphs…

Ceres Imaging website
“Stable acres, shifting varietals: Allied Grape Growers’ Jeff Bitter on wine economics in 2018”

bitter1.jpg
bitter4.jpg

There was a post several years back about moving the whole DRC vineyard to a more northerly locating to compensate for global warming. [wow.gif]

I read through the whole post, quite well written. Some one pointed out to check the date, April 1! blush

I can’t speak for Europe, but I did see this today:

FarmLandGrab.org
“Californians, Chinese Scooping Up Farmland in Washington State”
NBC News
July 31, 2015


"‘We’re getting a lot of interest where they want to move out of California into Washington, Oregon and Idaho,’ said John Knipe, president of Knipe Land Co. in Boise, Idaho. ‘Often they have to sell the California property to do that.’

"Knipe said water availability is seen as ‘a very big factor’ when potential investors are looking at farmland.

"Portions of Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana are currently in severe or extreme drought conditions, according to the latest U.S. Drought Monitor. The Drought Monitor released Thursday stated that ‘the lack of mountain snowpack has contributed to record and near-record low-stream flows across much of the Pacific Northwest, with tinder-dry conditions resulting in the closing of the forests in northern Idaho.’

“Statewide, Washington cropland increased in value by an average 5.8 percent last year compared with the year prior, and is up more than 36 percent since 2010, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s 2014 Land Values report, which will be updated next week. Oregon cropland was up an average 4.2 percent last year and has risen 13 percent since 2010. By comparison, California cropland increased an average 2.8 percent in value last year but lagged the growth in values from states in the nation’s heartland.”

IF important vineyards are to be preserved, the general wine-drinking public must be aware of their existence.

Yes, the Historic Vineyard Society hosts an annual tour of ancient vineyards, but most of the attendees are already converts of the cause.


This is a vineyard tour business I found moments ago: Touring & Tasting.

From the website:
"Here are just a few amazing things you’ll receive when you book a tour with Touring & Tasting:
_- Fully customized and flexible VIP itinerary. Areas served: Bay Area, Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Lake County, Lodi, and Livermore Valley;

  • Upgrades, perks, and enhanced experiences at select businesses, courtesy of Touring & Tasting;
  • Scenic ride in a new, safe, top-rated vehicle (more details below);
  • Complimentary copy of Touring & Tasting magazine;
  • Free Touring & Tasting Preferred membership — no strings attached;
  • Friendly, safe, and knowledgeable Tour Director;
  • Optional airport and out-of-area pick up and drop off (additional fee may apply)."_Why on Earth would I advocate this sort of thing?

The more wine drinkers have a chance to cast their eyes on their preferred alcoholic beverage’s place of origin, the greater the odds that the vast blur of anonymous vineyards will transform into individual, personally significant sites that folks will remember. Photos of tour sites, coupled with the tour organization’s literature (to assist wine-fogged memories), may be shared with friends, both in-person and via social media.

I identified this particular touring service because it offers patrons the opportunity to visit viticultural areas off the beaten path.

Check out this tour from 2015. How many of the sites you recognize?

“Lodi’s Legendary Vines”


*** EDIT ***


Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) recently developed the Zinfandel Trail.


Wine Industry Advisor
“Zinfandel Advocates & Producers Launches the California Zinfandel Trail”

April 5, 2021


The California Zinfandel Trail website features many Zinfandel-producing wineries. While arranged tours are available, the site also is useful for independent trip planning, with profiles of Zin specialists and regional maps.

Featured Routes:
· Alexander Valley

· Bay Area

· Lodi

· Murphys & Calaveras County

· Napa Valley

· Paso Robles

· Russian River Valley

· Sacramento Valley

· Sierra Foothills

· Sonoma Valley
California Zinfandel Trail website:

Zinfandel Advocates & Producers website:

As I try to juggle my “research” on the various threads on regions (Contra Costa, Santa Clara/San Benito), grape varieties (Mourvèdre, hopefully a Carignan thread, too), and this topic, I occasionally hit dead ends.

Recently, the Lodi blog has been stressing the “Economics vs Heritage” topic heavily - with good reason.

The total acreage of old-vine Zinfandel in the region have been threatened by current wine trends remains unknown, but it is apparently very high.

While I continue to track down info relevant to other threads that fascinate me, I (sadly) remain able to rely on the struggles in Lodi to provide material for the “Economics vs Heritage” topic.



Lodi Wine blog
“Heritage Oak’s Blends are Crafted for Sophisticated Red Wine Lovers”
by Randy Caparoso
March 26, 2018


"…The big producers have always made their grape buying decisions based upon ongoing trends. This inevitably has a huge impact on the Lodi wine grape industry – by far the largest in the U.S. Thirty-five years ago it was all about growing more Chardonnay and less Chenin blanc or Colombard. Twenty-five years ago, it was Carignan (a grape used to produce generic ‘Burgundy’) that had to go, and Merlot that needed more planting, and pronto.

"Just this past fall (2017), an estimated ‘thousands’ of acres (exact figures still to be determined) of Zinfandel have recently been torn out of the ground in the Lodi wine region. Maybe the old vine plantings are not so venerated after all. But why? Because sales of White Zinfandel as well as value priced red Zinfandel ($12 and under) have recently taken a dive. The big producers are demanding more Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as more black skinned grapes such as Petite Sirah to use in, of course, more red wine blends.

"These same marketing realities, needless to say, trickle down to Lodi’s smaller, artisanal producers. For instance, while known for single-vineyard Zinfandels, McCay Cellars has been producing a red wine blend called ‘Paisley’ over the past five years. ‘Paisley has its fans,’ says owner/winemaker Mike McCay, ‘and so we have to keep making it.’ Oak Farm Vineyards has been tinkering with a ‘Corset’ blend for going on three vintages. Teeny-tiny Markus Wine Co. – the current favorite among geekier Lodi wine lovers – is virtually all about blends as opposed to varietal bottlings.

"Even the larger Michael David Winery – while nearing 1 million-case production, still small-fry compared to behemoths like E. & J. Gallo – has added on extremely successful red wine blends to their ubiquitous ‘7 Deadly’ and ‘Freakshow’ labels, complimenting their original Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon varietal bottlings under the same monikers.

"The last thing anyone would ever say about Heritage Oak owner/grower/winemaker Tom Hoffman is that he makes wines for the simple-minded. If anything, Hoffman’s wines are the opposite: They are for wine lovers who fancy subtlety, balance, a touch of elegance along with some Lodi earthiness. But if you prefer the ‘obvious’, or more one-dimensional tutti-fruitiness, Heritage Oak wines may not be for you.

“The thing about blends, says Hoffman is that ‘blending brings out different flavors, often something you wouldn’t find if you were sampling the wines components separately. If one wine gives you Flavor A and another wine gives you Flavor B, logically you’d expect to get Flavor A+B, but what I see after the wines are blended is something else, Flavor C.’”



Even in an article that seemingly highlights the work of one winery (Heritage Oak, in this case) developing blends that appeal to changing consumer tastes, the author has to make mention of the near-apocalyptic degree of vine uprooting taking place. In order to accommodate the shifting focus of drinkers, corporations tailor their contracts with grape growers to hone in on a moving target.

It has been a bit of a running joke - true though it be - that one primary reason Zinfandel aficionados are able to savor wines from ancient plantings is due to the timely popularity of inexpensive, sweet bottles of blush. I would not have thought that this is still the case.
:neutral_face:

What steps are winegrape-growing communities taking to save pre-existing vineyards?

I have asked myself this question several times (at least) over the past couple of years, yet I have not found many promising answers.

Firstly, a county or city must be dedicated to actively working directly with the growers/landowners. Legislation that merely states that old vineyards are important or special doesn’t do anything in the real world.

Secondly, the landowners must have a desire to embrace any protective measures provided by legislation. The final decision is up to them.


Here are a few opportunities for vineyard owners to utilize, should it be a priority for them:



​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​State of California’s Sustainable Agricultural Lands Conservation Program (SALC) website

"The SALC Program complements investments made in urban areas with the purchase of agricultural conservation easements, development of agricultural land strategy plans, and other mechanisms that result in GHG reductions and a more resilient agricultural sector.

​"The program invests in agricultural land conservation with revenue from the California’s California Climate Investments (CCI) Fund​, made available for projects that reduce greenhouse gas emissions while providing additional benefits to California communities. CCI is derived from quarterly cap-and-trade auction proceeds, which are administered by the California Air Resources Board.

“The Department of Conservation works in cooperation with the Natural Resources Agency and the SGC to implement the program.”

​​​​​​

California’s Strategic Growth Program SALC website

Sustainable Agricultural Lands Conservation:
Protecting California’s Agricultural lands from development”

SGC: “Vision

Protecting California’s Agricultural Lands from Development: The loss of prime California farmland is a threat to the economic vitality and environmental sustainability of the state.”
salc-info-capntrade.png
"Combatting Sprawl

"The SALC program simultaneously supports California’s food security and encourages infill development and low-carbon transportation to curb sprawl.

“Urban sprawl not only increases greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution, as people have to drive further to get where they need to go, but also encroaches on agricultural lands that both store carbon and sustain our economy.”

salc-info-easemnts.png
“How does the SALC Program encourage climate-smart development?” (PDF file)


Contra Costa Agricultural-Natural Resource Trust: “Our Work

“Sometimes, land that isn’t public is still in the public interest—a centuries-old family farm, a working ranch that includes important wetlands, or development areas with creeks and protected species. We work with landowners who would like to preserve the value they derive from the land while also honoring its value to the community. As the Trust’s portfolio of protected land grows, we continue to direct our attention towards the sustainability and stewardship of these areas by providing resources to landowners on conservation and stewardship practices and requirements. We reflect our commitment to the sustainability and maintenance of the lands we protect with every action we take.”

ANRTEasements 101

"IN THE LAST 30 YEARS, THE BAY AREA HAS LOST 217,000 ACRES of agricultural land to sprawl development—a total area equivalent to seven San Franciscos. Contra Costa County agriculture contributes $225 million to the local economy. Yet the county has had nearly 20% of its agricultural land paved over since 1990, and much of what’s left is still threatened by imminent development pressure.

​"Close to urban areas, Bay Area farmers and ranchers are under more pressure than their counterparts in more rural areas of the state. The cost of land and other inputs is higher and the potential for conflict with urban uses is greater. To stay in business, agriculture in this region must overcome these competitive disadvantages.

"WHAT IS A CONSERVATION EASEMENT?

"A conservation easement is a voluntary legal agreement by which a landowner chooses to limit certain uses of his or her land in order to conserve some value it provides. Land placed into a conservation easement still belongs to the landowner, and the landowner retains the rights to sell the land or pass it to heirs.

“Most landowners with conservation easements continue to live on and manage the land for farming, ranching, timber, recreation, and other uses. These agreements are tailored to meet the needs and long-term goals of each landowner. ANRT ensures that the mutually agreed-upon terms and conditions of the conservation easement are honored, and acts as a resource for landowners as they work toward these goals.”

ANRTMitigation/Conservation Efforts

"California is now the nation’s most populous and fastest growing state. But the popularity comes at a price. In the last 25 years, California has paved over more than a million acres of land, much of it prime farmland. What’s worse, the state’s urban areas contain less than 10 people for every acre developed – the very definition of low-density urban sprawl. If current trends continue, another two million acres will be lost by 2050.

"Mitigation Conservation Easements are easements that are required in order to help offset expected adverse impacts of development on loss of farmland, habitat or riparian areas. These are paid for by the developer or mitigating group.


Santa Clara Valley Open Space Authority: “Santa Clara Valley Agricultural Plan

“The Santa Clara Valley Agricultural Plan (Plan), an innovative approach to agricultural preservation that will reduce future conversion of local farmland and the associated increase in greenhouse gas emissions while growing a vibrant local food economy that contributes to our quality of life.”

BACKGROUND

Santa Clara County has a rich agricultural history and was once recognized as the ‘Valley of Heart’s Delight’ famous for its orchards and canneries. Many are not aware that the County still has 24,000 acres of farmland that generates 8,100 jobs and $830 million in economic output. However, in the past 30 years alone, the County lost 21,171 acres of farmland and rangeland to development and an additional 28,391 acres are currently at risk of being developed. If we lose more of our farmland, it would not only diminish our local food source, but also result in a loss of the iconic rural character of Santa Clara Valley, important jobs and farms central to our agricultural economy, and would generate significant greenhouse gas emissions.

“To protect California’s irreplaceable croplands and rangelands, the State of California launched the Sustainable Agricultural Lands Conservation Program (SALCP) in 2015. The Plan is funded in part by SALCP which provides cap and trade funding to protect agricultural lands in order to reduce greenhouse gas emissions to meet California’s climate change goals. In partnership with the cities of San Jose, Morgan Hill, and Gilroy, the Authority and the County are mapping agricultural lands in Santa Clara Valley for conservation and identifying the regional greenhouse gas reduction potential.”

• First Growth Farmers website


As I have pointed out in the “Contra Costa Wine Heritage” thread, some landowners are reluctant to participate in vineyard conservation steps that require the establishment of easements.

While I might not agree with that decision, the City of Oakley’s work in saving its vineyards is an ongoing project. The Oakley issue is a race against time that, sadly, may continue with vineyard losses left and right.

Alas, another ancient vineyard is suffering from housing needs to accommodate population growth…this time, in Mendocino County!


Ukiah Daily Journal
“Ukiah Declines to Support Ag Protection for Lovers Lane Vineyards”
By: Justine Frederiksen
March 10, 2018


"The Ukiah City Council Wednesday declined to support barring development on more than 100 acres of vineyards along Lovers Lane.

"'One hundred and 33 acres is a lot of land … and forever is a long time,’ said Vice-Mayor Maureen Mulheren, referring to an agricultural conservation easement that would have forever blocked development on the property owned by Mendo Farming Company, which includes Paul Dolan and his son Heath. ‘I’m concerned about tying the hands of the community to a piece of agricultural land that 10 years from now might be determined to not be as fertile or as necessary.’

"“This is an opportunity for the Ukiah Valley to preserve farm land and to bring a million dollars into the county,” said Ann Cole of the Mendocino Land Trust, which requested and received a conditional award of $1.17 million from the state to pay the owner of the property for agreeing to forgo future development.

"However, Cole said the award was contingent on both the Mendocino County Board of Supervisors and the Ukiah City Council passing resolutions of support.

"‘This request tonight seeks to sugarcoat the destruction of the Ukiah Valley Area Plan,’ said Phil Baldwin, describing anyone who was ‘divorcing’ the conservation easement from the planned housing development on the remaining 23 acres owned by the Dolans as ‘not dealing with reality.’

"Baldwin said in his view, the easement ‘seeks to bamboozle all of us to achieve a dangerous precedent for paving over farm land whenever the economically powerful claim a housing crisis.’

"‘I’m certainly open to considering this at some point if the project for the housing doesn’t go through, or even if it does go through,’ said Council member Steve Scalmanini. ‘But as it is tonight, I’m very reluctant to support half a loaf, when the whole thing was there at one point. I’d rather go for the whole thing.’

Scalmanini was referring to Lisa Ray’s assertion that three years ago when the easement was first suggested to her by Dolan, all of his 156 acres and her 150 acres to the west were being considered for protection.

"‘I withdrew my application (when I learned some acres were being excluded) because I believe it is in the community’s best interest to include all of the agricultural land in the conservation easement north of Lovers Lane, not just a few,’ said Ray, describing some of the 23 acres being considered for development as ‘heritage vines that were planted over 50 years ago, and they should be preserved, not plowed under.

Cole stressed that the housing project proposed by Guillon, Inc. should be seen as a wholly separate project, and 2nd District Supervisor John McCowen agreed.

"‘The project in front of you is the project in front of you,’ said McCowen, adding that the Board of Supervisors had unanimously approved the easement as an ‘absolutely non-controversial’ item on its consent calendar. "If you don’t approve this project, you’re unlikely to get another project that will include additional land.

"‘This project preserves a large chunk of valuable agricultural land, brings a large amount of money into the community that will further support agriculture, and will relieve many city of Ukiah residents who are immediately adjacent to the property from being subjected to a large development without adequate traffic infrastructure,’ said McCowen, referring to the possibility of many more acres than just the 23 being turned into housing.

“‘I would not be supporting this if it weren’t just those 23 acres set aside for housing,’ said Council member Jim Brown. ‘I can’t even imagine 133 acres of housing out there. I think those buffers are necessary in preserving the integrity of the valley’…”

Thanks for bringing the Lovers Lane issue to our attention, Drew - I had not heard this news.

Unfortunately, old vines in Mendocino County have largely gone unrecognized and unappreciated in comparison to those in Sonoma, Napa, and even Lodi. There are lots of old vineyards in Mendocino, especially old Carignane plantings. But since the fruit from these sites doesn’t tend to be put into bottlings from the more celebrated advocates of old vines (I noted how few Mendocino wines were poured at the recent Historic Vineyard Society tasting in San Francisco), situations such as the one noted above are likely to keep coming up, and old vines will continue to be ripped out without much notice from the wine community.

It looks like the old Lovers Lane Carignane vineyard that Bryan Harrington has sourced fruit from may be one of those in danger now that the proposed agricultural conservation easement was voted down. Carignane tends to be a tough sell - no doubt part of the reason why the loss of these old Mendocino vineyards can so easily go un-noticed.

I wanted to hear your thoughts on this matter. Thank you, Ken!!

It is uncontestable that the majority of Mendocino’s wine grapes are sold to wineries outside of the county. The local pride/awareness of its old-vine cultural treasures should not be dependent upon where the grapes end up, IMHO. Just as Contra Costa fruit is often fermented and bottled elsewhere, the effort to save the ancient vineyards is a local concern (albeit a late one).

Mendocino’s work in promoting the quality of its grapes (both from newer and older sites) eclipses that of many other CA appellations. There are informational websites, tourist attractions, festivals, frequent newspaper highlights of growers’ stories, etc. To what degree residents care about the destruction of the vineyards is a whole different creature. Are many jobs dependent on the welfare of Mendocino’s viticulture? Does wine-themed tourism drum up local business sufficiently? Are gnarled, wizened vines solely aesthetic pleasures on the drive home?