Me too. I remember reading a quote out of Hugh Johnson’s Encyclopedia of Wine when I first got into the wine business that the “Three 'B’s” of Italy hit their sweet spots at ten years of age, and “rarely” improved after that. Now I know that isn’t true - but it did get me in the habit of drinking these wines at 10-12 years of age. Plus, I tend to purchase producers whose wines mature somewhat early anyways.
AND - I already purchase a lot of Rosso di Montalcino - so it’s not an “either or…” situation for me.
+1 to Mr. Kight and Mr. Sieber. While I haven’t tasted RdM widely, those that I have just don’t scratch that itch for me in the way that a good Brunello does. Fuligni is my go to producer, along with a handful of others. Rossos have their place as we can’t drink Riserva BdM every night (at least I can’t) but replacement would deny too much pleasure.
I’ll be the contrarian here. I rarely find RDM that is more than just decent. That being said, as stated above BDM is a minefield too. However there are 6-8 Brunello producers I feel very confident in buying. Il Poggione, Le Chiuse, Costanti, Lisini, Cerbaiola-Salvioni, Cerbaiona, probably a few more I’m forgetting. Take Il Poggione for example, I’ve never found their Rosso to be that interesting. Last fall I acquired some 2019 Le Chiuse Rosso, good, but nothing that special. The one RDM that seems to overdeliver in recent years is Caparzo, a steal at around $20 a bottle.
I’ve never understood the whole Chianti/Rosso replacement theory for Brunello. I enjoy Chianti immensely and there are some absolutely gorgeous expressions. Yet, Brunello consistently brings the goods and with Gran Selezione, there are now more than a few Chiantis pushing prices well above what Brunello costs.
On a bottle for bottle basis, Brunello has consistently provided me with the greatest expressions of Sangiovese and I feel like these tales are based on just a few bottles that hit just right as opposed to the totality. Or maybe it’s a constant Berserker thing to be provocative to go with a POV that doesn’t necessarily fit with the mainstream. Either way, my complete response to the question is:
For some of us, this isn’t a reflexive desire to be provocative. In my case, I’ve been disappointed far too much of the time and have rarely had one that lived up to its billing, as I explained in my original 2018 post.
Put me in the camp of more often disappointed by RdM than BdM. I still buy a fair amount of BdM but have mostly given up on Rosso and I generally stick to Chianti in that price range. I have certainly not tasted as broadly in RdM as in Chianti or BdM, but have had too many that tasted like inferior Chianti rather than “baby Brunello” so I’ve moved on.
Most recently a 2010 Valdicava BdM off a wine list in Phoenix was just singing.
I’ll be the contrary cat on that one, over a few good vintages like 2010 or 2016 I’ve never been impressed by Caparzo’s Rosso. It’s of the few I’ve tasted in multiple years (mostly a function of it being blown out at Costco) and at this point I doubt I have any RdM from any producer in the racks.
I concur: I bought a half case of the 2016 Caparzo RdM, which I loved, only to find the store had subbed in some '17. It was too much of hassle to return it, but the '17 was nowhere near as good as the '16.
I mean, sure? Montalcino is a drier region than Chinati, so it will naturally produce more powerful wines. Rossos will either be from lesser barrel aging or younger vines, so it’s entirely possible that your own palate doesn’t lean that way. But, overly tannic Brunello at 15+ years? I can’t get on board with that at all unless you are purposely going after the spoofy ones to confirm your feelings. There are over 200 producers of Brunello across 9 different quadrants in the grid. I find it utterly impossible that you can’t find a Brunello that delivers what you would expect.
Given your preferences on Nebbiolo, I just find this take……odd in all honesty. Given what is available in New York and your general perspectives on wine, this just doesn’t add up to me. It does feel like being provocative for provocative’s sake as the cool thing on this board is to claim Brunello isn’t all that (and it’s been a consistent theme for the nearly 13odd years I’ve been posting here).
Keith - Why do you have to keep questioning my motives in criticizing Brunello – suggesting that I’m just trying to be cool and provocative? That’s not a good approach to a fruitful exchange.
I was quite enthusiastic about Brunello after staying in the area in 1998 and 2001. The wines I bought in that period seldom lived up to my hopes, and as I said in my original post, I’ve had a lot of experiences with older Brunellos that were out of balance or defective.
And, as you can see, others like Greg, Jayson and Pat hold similar views.
Feel free to enjoy Brunello. I won’t question your sincerity.
@John Morris and Arv V, I was of the same opinion until the 2016. Anything prior to that was very ordinary. The current vintage, 2019, I feel is very solid again.
Looking over my notes, happy with the ones I’ve had over the pandemic; 97 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) was fabulous,99 and 95 Altesino Montisoli, 97 Carpazo were also lovely.
A recent 04 Il Poggione didn’t seem balanced but I don’t think they are a traditionally minded producer (the one I had two years ago seemed fine)
I avoid BdM riservas. John, any distinction in your comments between riservas and regular wines?
