Sicilian wines

WINE TALK
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Man, what a bummer! [wink.gif]

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Seen a few Grillo around town of late so picked up the 2020 Roceno Grillo , Sibiliana. Very good producer I think. Sicily, increasingly the source of interesting mid-priced and elegant white wines of character.

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So, we have returned from our trip. 17 days of the trip were spent traveling around Sicily after 3 days at WA’s Matter of Taste in Zurich and a day in Milan. 17 days is not enough time to see Sicily, nor is it enough time to drink all of its wines. We unfortunately, missed out on Occhipinti, Frachetti, Terre Nere and skipped Marsala pretty much altogethe. We also missed Calabretta, whose owner Massimiliano Calabretta was very helpful assisting us with planning the tail end of our trip, despite not being able to accommodate us since he was out of the country. We did however at least get to have some Occhipinti at 2 restaurants and a bottle of Marsala that traveled with us a bit and a sbs comparison of Calabretta’s 2011 & 2012 Vigne Vecchie on our last day.

We did 4 tastings and each was very different.

Gulfi was excellent and we were able to purchase wines as far back at least as 2002. The 2002 neroMaccarai was unique and showing pretty well after 20 years. We were lucky enough to get a chance to speak the owner Raffaele Catania, whose passion for wine was evident and inspiring. My favorite among the Gulfi wines was the the 2011 neroSanlore, which we actually had at a restaurant the night before arriving to Gulfi, back in Agrigento. The 2017 neroBuffalefi was possibly next on the list, but we tried about 15 Gulfi wines and enjoyed each immensely. Gulfi also has a solid Etna Rosso called Reseca which I had not known about prior. We will be stocking up on some more Gulfi!

Donnafugata surprised me with 2 very good Nerello Mascalese from Etna. One of which named Marchesa, unfortunately does not make it to the US but the other Fragore does although it appears pretty scarce and about 80% more expensive than in Sicily. I may still end up with a few in the cellar. Then of course Ben Rye! which we drank not only at Donnafugata but everywhere else we could on the trip, including Zurich and Milan. There was also their Mille e Una Notte, which is excellent but a bit too oaky for my preferences to enjoy young. I would give the 16s until at least 2030 before touching them.

Firriato’s Cavanera Etnea Resort was a beautiful place to stay, but the wines are not quite my preference. For the price point, their Cavanera Etna Rosso is solid though.

Frank Cornelissen’s tasting included a short drive up Etna to about 900m in altitude to see the Contrada Barbabecchi (BB), where Magma’s grapes are often picked. The tasting was down in the cellar with the fiberglass containers which the wines age in. It was our first time trying wine directly from such containers before the wine is even finished aging. The VA (Vigne Alte) was the most expressive of the few wines we tried there, but CR (Campo Re) showed lots of potential as well. The highlight was later that day though as we purchased a bottle of the 2016 Magma at the restaurant of the agriturismo we were staying at. Sadly, we drank most of it too quickly. As I started to feel it become more nuanced about halfway through the bottle we decided to put aside the opened bottle for a few hours and then revisit. It was much more complex with a few more hours of air. The wine is excellent and a really pure expression of Nerello Mascalese, but I think the price tag is a bit too high.

Between the 2 Calabretta Vigne Vecchie my wife and I both went back and forth. The 2012 is 16% abv yet somehow doesn’t come across hot. Sort of mind blown about that still, but leaning very slightly towards the 2011 as my preference. The 2011 is more rustic, the 2012 is more expressive. We will probably buy the 2 in equal amounts and continue to ponder which we prefer over the next 5-8 years.

Long post, but hopefully it is interesting to someone other than myself.

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Last Saturday’s wines. I had taken formal notes on the 2 Gulfi wines but sadly, those notes are nowhere to be found. This is all from memory, which is still fairly vivid. Some of these I have had multiple bottles.

2018 Franchetti Passorosso - solid wine, clean expression, softer than expected, but I was hoping for a bit more fruit at this age.

2011 Calabretta VV - WOW… I am now several bottles deep into this wine. Previously each bottle had a bit of a funk to them that I brushed off as I still enjoyed them immensely. This bottle did not have that funk and it was incredible. A totally different animal. Would easily pay $90 for a wine tasting like it did and feel good about what I paid.

2019 Calabretta Nerello Cappuccio - first time trying a pure Nerello Cappuccio. So much fruit, a bit darker fruit than Mascalese, but so light. Easy drinking, not sure how this grape ages.

2018 Feudo Montoni Nero d"Avola - great qpr, great for pairing with a variety of foods. Carries some darker fruit.

2016 Gulfi neroBufaleffj - This is the most expressive of Gulfi’s Cru, coming from the plot of land with the most diversity. It is Gulfi’s wine with the broadest appeal. The 16 is so potent, that it can be enjoyed by those who love almost only Zin, CdP or Amarone, or even those who love jammy Cali cabs. So much fruit, but it is the only of the Cru that really shows clear signs of the 2 years in *500L barrels, with vanilla pushing through the powerful fruit. The acidity is strong enough to also keep the attention of those who are almost anti jammy Cali cab. Excellent wine, and should only get better over the next 5-10 years, maybe more.

2016 Gulfi neroSanlore - It is amazing that these 2 Gulfi wines (as the other 2 neroMaccarj & neroBaronj) are made of the same grape, and exactly the same way yet taste so incredibly different. Sanlore comes from the plot nearest the ocean, from soil with lots of minerals. There is a lightness to the wine when compared to the other Gulfi Cru. It is incredibly expressive still but the wine is almost asking the drinker what they think as compared to Buffaleffj, which is telling the drinker. As I originally was writing notes I couldnt help but feel that all of my thoughts were more visual. Buffaleffj is like a big party with so much, so loud but really special, like a more modern version of the wedding at the start of the Godfather or perhaps a nightclub with some really nuanced electronica playing from amazing speakers. Sanlore on the other hand reminds me of being at Gulfi, looking out at the fields of what I believe were yellow African daisies, and hearing only the wind, with a few birds. It is more subtle, showing minerality, but still lots of fruit. Very excited to have these 10-15 years post vintage. Probably my favorite of the Cru if I had to choose.

2018 Donnafugata Ben Ryé - Zibibbo’s Passitos quickly became 1 of my favorite dessert wines alongside Barolo Chinato, Recioto della Valpolicella & Sauterne. Ben Ryé so far has been a complete stand alone. It is almost purely the acidity that makes this wine special, offering so much fruit though apricot dominated, and offering the aging potential that it has.

*edited I thought I recalled 225L barriques, but the Gulfi site states 500L
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Has anyone had Ferrandes Passito di Pantelleria?

Curious to get anyone’s thoughts.

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That 2016 NeroSanlore is a pretty nice wine [cheers.gif]

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I think he’s the benchmark producer of traditional Pantelleria.

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I am surprised that Planeta hasn’t been mentioned. I just came back from a week cycling in Sicily. We had dinner one night at Planeta and their wines varied from good to great. I echo the love for Gulfi and Occhipinti.
I really enjoyed the Tasca Nozze d’Oro with a shrimp course and the different Franchetti Passopisciaro Contrada wines. Overall the food was excellent and even the cheap wines were at least good.
Thankful I rented an e bike because the hills were brutal.

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From what I’ve tasted, most Planeta wines have ranged from decent to meh. Nothing particularly bad in any way, but nothing I’d mention specifically. Especially their Etna Rossos have been quite clumsy compared to the best producers the few times I’ve tasted them.

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Maybe it is just me, but I think the Palari Faro is pretty magical.

I had a 2004 Palari Faro from magnum recently, and it was a lithe, dark-fruited swirl of elegance and beauty.

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Over the course of a few days leading up to that picture above, I was trying some more affordable young Nerello Mascalase. The winner of the 4 bottles was a Planeta, but it still did not quite hit the mark to where I want to buy more, so I am still searching for a more affordable wine that I can drink young. The 4 wines are below and ordered by my preference.

2019 Planeta Sicilia Nerello Mascalese Eruzione 1614
2018 Passopisciaro Vini Franchetti Etna Rosso Passorosso
2019 Terra Costantino Etna Rosso de Aetna
2018 Benanti Etna Rosso

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I’ve tasted only the entry-level Etna Rosso of Planeta and I don’t know anything about that Eruzione 1614. I wonder if that is a flagship bottling or single-vineyard of the winery’s Etna range? If it is, the competition here is pretty unfair, seeing how all the other three wines are the entry-level reds of their respective wineries. If I had to choose between Planeta’s entry-level Etna (which I’m familiar with) and those other three wines, I’d go happily with any of the other three.

It also might show something about the quality of Planeta if their flagship Etna wine is among the “affordable” wines, because with most other producers their top Contrada labels can get a bit pricey! :smiley: But then again, it’s nice to hear if their flagship wine is both affordable and of good quality.

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It is in fact there most expensive Nerello at around $30 here in NY. Made at about 800m in Feudo di Mezzo near Passopisciaro.

I still have to give Franchetti’s Contrada G a try, but as of now I am leaning towards buying some Fragore and maybe some Cornelissen VA. I want to drink some young, and generally that price range is not what I am looking to pay for something to have so young, so I may still end up buying some more Eruzione still. Not quite sure yet.

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personally, I think the Franchtetti/passopiascaro wines need a lot more time in general than the Cornelissen’s, although they are also a little more consistent/mainstream. I enjoy Planeta’s wines, and think they are a real bargain.

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I think most of my favs have been mentioned, one of the best Etna Rosso qprs is probably the basic Terre Nere followed by Tascante. Both are around $20 and can be found for less from time to time.
Planeta is on deck for tonight. Less of a qpr but still nicely priced just under $30.

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We just got back from a couple weeks in Sicily.

We didn’t make it to that many wineries but did manage to go to Gulfi, valle d’accte and a few other interesting wineries that I need to look up the names.

We went to firriato’s Etna winery which was unimpressive.

Overall I thought the wines, especially Nero d’Avila and blends were interesting and very different in character with very good qpr. I wasn’t a fan of most international varietals there but one petit Verdot was interesting.

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I’ve just shared a little gem on my blog about Sicilian wines. Anyone in search of a virtual stroll through the vineyards, feel free to check it out. :grapes::wine_glass:

If you have suggestions or curious thoughts to share, put your expertise to good use.