I am constantly on the search for these qualities in a syrah. Do you find that smoke and meat is also accompanied by that briny/saline olive touch too - yum!! I wish it was more common - seems like I’ve found it more often in Washington syrahs and you can’t really say that it is a cool climate area.
I work with Syrah from a cooler climate and in comparison tastings with other Syrah’s, those qualities mentioned above tend to come from cooler sites. I find that certain clones of Syrah (Estrella River and Syrah Noir) produce more of those cool qualities then do 877 or some of the Alban Clones.
Not by any means only in Syrahs with stems. I’ve helped make Syrah in the past from Las Madres Vineyard in Carneros (quite a cool climate for Syrah), rarely used any whole clusters, and the wines almost always had a black olive character - sometimes it was very prominent.
Solved … As for the source of bacon in wine in general provided by science… coming from oak, sure another point of early on infection called Brett … So from an oak perspective certain drying conditions facilitate the introduction of Brett … Now that we know this , producers, brokers -importers of barrels now have another tool to dial in on the barrels , casks that have the propensity to deliver this nuance … It’s a great sales tool… (Mell maybe you can utilize this new information and implement it as a guide for your consumers) ?
Used with permission by author for education as stated in the introduction …
Trent E. Johnson
A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy
University of Adelaide Faculty of Sciences
School of Agriculture, Food and Wine Wine Science and Business Group
The nuance of bacon fat is a BRETT INFECTION … changed his love of wine lacking the Brett nuance…
Just as in how a ice wine need a crazy amount of Volatile acid to lift aroma, some would call a flaw… Some wines that utilize Brett like Syrah to deliver the savory organoleptic profile of meats , specifically bacon fat …
Buried around page 210 they find that consumers like fruits far better than meats in wine … The minority like the ‘bacon fat’ , so it’s recommended for mass markets to avoid this nuance… That said to approach hedonistic bliss this nuance seemed to be needed…
However, the absence of the third identified dimension which described an “earthy, savoury, dusty and meaty” (ESDM) character was the primary driver of their hedonic and quality ratings
The MDS solution provided 2 dimensions that are often associated with Australian Shiraz – “blackberry, plum, pepper and spice” (BPPS) and “herbal, vanilla, cedar and berry jam” (HVCBJ) characters. Wines perceived as having moderate levels of both these dimensions’ characteristics, were favourably received by the experts. > However, the absence of the third identified dimension which described an “earthy, savoury, dusty and meaty” (ESDM) character was the primary driver of their hedonic and quality ratings. > This ESDM dimension contained both positive descriptors like meaty and earthy (the latter being an ambiguous term but in this study the experts were referring to more developed fruit character (Iland and Gago, 2002)) and negative descriptors related to the (perceived) presence of Brettanomyces character, Some of the more expensive wines were perceived as having that ESDM character and this may have contributed to their lower than expected hedonic and quality scores. Of the seven wines identified by the experts as having this character, four had 4-EG/4-EP values within the range that would be considered responsible for a “Brettanomyces” fault (Chatonnet 1992). It would therefore appear that the experts were recognising the presence of this fault in some of the wines and subsequently marked down their quality and liking scores for those wines. The presence of some ESDM characters and the absence of primary fruit characters was also a detriment to higher quality and liking scores. The PLS undertaken in respect of both the liking and quality scores confirmed that the BPPS dimension was a positive factor in both scores and that the ESDM dimension was the major negative factor in both. It seemed that the experts’ technical quality evaluation of the wines contributed to their hedonic liking scores,
148
I will now need to refine my tasting notes: “Poured at ambient temperature of 72 degrees, the object itself was measured at 64.35 degrees. Slight wind out of the Northeast. The colors were a prismatic range of reds from the wavelength of light, approximately 620-740 nm on the electromagnetic spectrum. Poured in to pre-chilled, 1000ml glass beaker with pouring lip. Aerated for approximately 35 minutes. The ethyl guaiacol was in full pungent bloom, reminiscent of a freshly-tilled, fertilized hydroponic garden. The rotudone was noted as “pronounced, causing a sneezing sensation” in the testing audience.” (93.5595 pts/100)
[Please don’t spank me when you two cycling studs take me out riding!]
Ken - Las Madres is a great example. We made syrah from Las Madres Vineyard in 2005 and 2006 (did not include stems) and both vintages displayed black olive notes (tapenade without the anchovies). 05 was more prominent than 06 but still evident in the nose.
+1,000
Las Madres signature aroma for me has been black olive and it seems to surface regardless of winemaker or style although the whole cluster varieties have been more intense.