2015 Château Cantemerle- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (3/29/2022)
Part of a blind tasting, writing from memory. There’s a lot of sediment, so be sure to decant this wine (mine was not decanted well).
Overall wasn’t impressed. Nose showed oak, swirling the glass brought out some freshness and bright red fruit but also had some mossy/underbrush tones to it. Palate showed a good amount of acid, basically no tannins, not much fruit either but whatever was hanging on was elevated by acid. Finish was short and nondescript.
Compared to the prior notes, this may have been an off bottle with suboptimal decanting, although blind tasting does remove a lot of bias. (87 pts.)
That’s a fair observation, but I think that is generally true of many estates. I guess I would frame it like this, maybe Citran is a $20-25 wine, and for only $10 more or so, one can get a cru classe with some history/story to it. In a world where everybody can google anything, sometimes a guest or client might be mildly more impressed with Cantemerle after looking it up, and there’s some value in that.
Maybe my recollection is off, but I thought the 2010 Cantemerle might have been a BWE WOTY once?
+1. Coincidentally, I’ve had the '15 twice: first in '19, when it really impressed me; and then in '21, when it was clearly closing-up. My hands are off for at least another three years.
I loved the '96 and enjoyed the '89. Based on the strength of those I picked up a full case of '16 in the 375 format, and based on my experience with the first bottle that may be one of my smarter wine purchases in quite a while.
Cantemerle saw a lot of investment in the 1980s and after that went into more of a maintenance phase, until now, as they are about to build a big new state-of-the-art winery. The vineyards are well maintained, quite high density at 8,500 vines per hectare, and sit in a crescent of fine Mindel series gravels around the estate. It’s all pretty homogeneous, despite being almost 100 hectares, so they don’t have inferior parcels that go into the second wine or whatever (the second wines is generally young vines). Given its location in the (warmer) south and its soils, in style it is inherently a bit suppler and more charming than some of the other wines it’s being compared with in this thread (e.g. Meyney or Citran), I venture. Winemaking is rather gentle, as the “air pulse” system was prototyped here, which is a way to disrupt the cap without doing pump-overs, and percentages of new wood are modest. When this estate gets everything right its terrific value, and they are increasingly getting everything right.
I always found the rustic character of old-time Meyney to be part of its charm. A little inconsistent, but enjoyed lots of vintages from the last century.
-Al
Wasn’t disagreeing at all, and agree that they are quite different and I enjoy both of them (although not sure I’ve had Meyney since they changed hands).