TN: 2005 Keller Riesling trocken S

Robert_Dentice · September 7, 2020, 12:37pm

As for age-ability, I’m not ready to say that the GGs need 15 years given that, for the majority of his vineyards, no one has ever had a wine at age 15. A 2010 absterde tonight will go on for many more than 5 more years and with enough coaxing the nose is beginning to show the mystical phase now.

A

I get your point that GGs as an official designation have only a limited history, but we’re now several vintages into the 15 year mark on a number of producers’ GGs, including several Keller vineyards. So, while most people probably haven’t had them, it’s definitely not no one. I’m very lucky to have had more than a few, thanks to my husband’s canning buying back in the day, and friends like Robert. As I said previously, they can be absolutely delicious younger, but those beyond 15 years have, for me, entered another gear, and have led us to put more into the deep reserve than we might have guessed.

My only point is that Keller has not had the majority of his GG vineyards for long enough to be able to try the wines at 15 years. Absterde, Morstein, Hipping, Pettenthal, schubertslay - all in his hands for less than 15 years. No one has had at that age. Who knows when the best time to drink those is. We can guess, but maybe the extra gear is at 20, or 30. Maybe it never comes. Worth holding some I think.
A

But Alex if 04 Von der Fels, Kirchspiel and Hubacker are all stunning at the moment. And especially from Sarah’s cellar. I don’t think it is a major leap of faith to think wines from even better vineyards will last 15+ years. I can’t recall which GG but I think John Gilman has a 50 year window on one. Having said that I have no problem drinking them young, middle age and older.

A_Gillette · September 7, 2020, 12:37pm

Russell - from John Gilman:

“ As readers may recall, the “RR” Reserve bottling from Klaus-Peter Keller hails from a small section of the grand cru Kirchspiel vineyard that has red soils, rather than the limestone prevalent in the rest of the vineyard. Klaus-Peter chooses to bottle this wine on its own, rather than blend it in with the terres blanches sections of the vineyard.”

Russell_Faulkner · September 7, 2020, 12:38pm

Ah thanks! I should subscribe really.

Robert_Dentice · September 7, 2020, 12:38pm

I still have one left!

A_Gillette · September 7, 2020, 12:42pm

I get your point that GGs as an official designation have only a limited history, but we’re now several vintages into the 15 year mark on a number of producers’ GGs, including several Keller vineyards. So, while most people probably haven’t had them, it’s definitely not no one. I’m very lucky to have had more than a few, thanks to my husband’s canning buying back in the day, and friends like Robert. As I said previously, they can be absolutely delicious younger, but those beyond 15 years have, for me, entered another gear, and have led us to put more into the deep reserve than we might have guessed.

My only point is that Keller has not had the majority of his GG vineyards for long enough to be able to try the wines at 15 years. Absterde, Morstein, Hipping, Pettenthal, schubertslay - all in his hands for less than 15 years. No one has had at that age. Who knows when the best time to drink those is. We can guess, but maybe the extra gear is at 20, or 30. Maybe it never comes. Worth holding some I think.
A

But Alex if 04 Von der Fels, Kirchspiel and Hubacker are all stunning at the moment. And especially from Sarah’s cellar. I don’t think it is a major leap of faith to think wines from even better vineyards will last 15+ years. I can’t recall which GG but I think John Gilman has a 50 year window on one. Having said that I have no problem drinking them young, middle age and older.

I don’t think it is a major leap of faith either. I wouldn’t be surprised if, 10-15 years from now, all of us were posting that these wines need more than 15 years. My only point is that I’m not quite sure 15 is the right number. But I don’t have much experience pre-2009. Just a random bottle here and there. I’ve basically stopped drinking the GG young, except if one shows up on a restaurant list, on the theory that they are going to need quite a while to show their best parts.
A

A_Gillette · September 7, 2020, 12:43pm

PS - what did you think? I thought the ‘18 was a huge out-performer and really wonderful.
A

Robert_Dentice · September 7, 2020, 12:43pm

There has also been a KR in prior years from Kirchspiel that did not ferment dry enough to go into the GG. It is a lovely wine.

Ethan_Abraham · September 7, 2020, 12:45pm

2017 RR is a beast. Needs at least a day open to show. Seems like at least feinherb level of sweetness. Will wait at least 5 years on my next bottle.

Martin_Zwick · September 7, 2020, 12:46pm

OK…in 5-10 years I will come to NY.

Russell_Faulkner · September 7, 2020, 12:48pm

Didn’t open it yet. Only have two so decided against it. Yet.

Mark_Golodetz · September 7, 2020, 12:50pm

I tried a google translation; it was not pretty. If you are up for it, could you please do a synopsis.

Robert_Dentice · September 7, 2020, 12:53pm

Or I come to Berlin!

Martin_Zwick · September 7, 2020, 1:05pm

Mark,

our host Michael Quentel said the perfect phrase immediately after the tasting:

“Viele Weine, selbst gute, lassen dich Lärm schmecken. Aber nur die allerbesten geben dir Stille zu kosten. Ich habe an diesem Nachmittag Stille verkostet.“
„A lot of wines, even good ones, let you taste noise. But only the best of the best let you taste silence.
This afternoon I tasted silence.“

I would say this is the best comment about KELLER wines I have ever heared and read.

Therefore points/scores are obsolete.

Mark_Golodetz · September 7, 2020, 1:21pm

Thanks. That will do nicely.