TN: 2017 Falkenstein Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett (AP 12)

[Howard_Cooper]

I bought a case of assorted Grunhaus in 2015, none is 2016. Looks like I made the correct decision. Have a decent amount of 2012s. The vintage I wish I had bought more from, esp. at the Auslese level, is 2010.

[Russell_Faulkner]

There are many great 2016s. Want an amazing Grunhaus, check out the Herrenberg #17. The straight Abtsberg Kabi is a proper version too (82 Oechsle).

Keller’s wines are great (duh), As are the Lieser Doctors. I found the better wines were at the sweet end but freshness is amply available.

It’s not a vintage I’d necessarily buy blind or if my Riesling budget was very limited, but those who are inquisitive will be well rewarded.

[Lars_Carlberg]

You’re welcome, Howard. That’s true. Back then, Erich Weber only produced bone-dry Saar Rieslings. It’s about a third of the production nowadays. I hope you can uncork some bottles with your friends later this year.

Me too. Thanks. Were you pouring the Rieslingfeier when we were tasting the 2015s? I am trying to remember whether I met you there.

You’re welcome. And, yes, you met me there.

[Lars_Carlberg]

Yes, the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region was legally established in 1909. Before then, all the wine was called simply Mosel wine, though, as today, the Saar was often mentioned as a distinct subregion, hence the “Saar und Mosel Weinbau-Karte,” which was first published in 1868 (the fourth and last edition was 1906). The wines of Trier and its side valleys, as well as those in the Ruwer subregion, however, were grouped under Mosel wine. “Mosel-Saar-Ruwer” was officially required on labels from 1936 to 2006, when for marketing reasons it was officially shortened to “Mosel”—an unpopular move among most Saar and Ruwer producers.

As Alex pointed out, the producers on the Saar and most recently on the Ruwer can put their respective subregions in a smaller font than “Mosel” on the label. (On the Ruwer, there is a village named Ruwer that precluded producers from using this name as a subregion post-2006. This status changed not too long ago when the town no longer had vineyards in production.)

Most importantly to me, wines from the Saar tend to taste different from wines from the mittelmosel. And, the few Falkenstein wines I have had tasted much more like Saar wines. The Saar is always my go to spot for wines in warmer vintages because they retain their focus better than most German wines in those vintages.

For example, while I have not had any, many on this thread raved about the focus of the 2016 Falkenstein wines. Are there a lot of 2016s from German wine regions where this would be true?

That’s true. The Saar and Ruwer, while farther south, are higher up than the Middle Mosel. Along these two tributaries of the Mosel River, many of the best sites are in side valleys, which are cooler and often more exposed to winds than in the Mosel Valley. In a warming climate, this makes an even bigger difference in retaining what you call “focus.” I’m biased, but to me no one on the Saar makes wines like Hofgut Falkenstein. As for the 2016 vintage, I really liked Egon Müller’s Scharzhofberger Kabinett and Kabinett Alte Reben. But his 2017 and 2018 vintages tasted noticeably riper and rounder, if you will.

I should add that the higher elevation, especially in the side valleys of the Saar, means higher day and night temperature differences, which gives the wines a higher acidity.

[David_K2]

I also largely skipped 2016 but after tasting some, realized that was a mistake. Backfilled as most were still available. As for Grunhaus, I’m not sure the 2016 Abtsberg Spatlese isn’t better than the 2015. It’s certainly better now. Thankfully have both and it will be fun to follow them.

[Lars_Carlberg]

In my previous post, I went back and added that last line about cooler night temperatures and higher acidity. The higher day and night temperature differences, also known as a higher diurnal temperature variation, is said to preserve acidity (especially malic acids). Saar Riesling tends to have higher acidity with more apple, lime, or lemon flavors than those of the Middle Mosel.

[A_Gillette]

In my previous post, I went back and added that last line about cooler night temperatures and higher acidity. The higher day and night temperature differences, also known as a higher diurnal temperature variation, is said to preserve acidity (especially malic acids). Saar Riesling tends to have higher acidity with more apple, lime, or lemon flavors than those of the Middle Mosel.

I always struggle to differentiate Mosel, Saar and Ruwer with any firm distinctions that hold true in all circumstances. It seems to me like anytime you try to put characteristics to any of the three there is a counter-example than quickly forms an exception. But I think it’s a noble effort to try to generalize. My favorite Saar producer is Peter Lauer, and for me Florian’s wines have more in common with the wines of JJ Prum than they do with the wines of Egon Muller. I also wonder whether climate change will blur these distinctions even further. It’s a wonderful time to be a Mosel wine lover.
A

[Lars_Carlberg]

So true. The winegrowing and -making play such a crucial role. But I find very little in common between the wines of Peter Lauer and J.J. Prüm. Many Lauer wines are dry or off-dry and go through malo. But I would agree that the wines of Egon Müller are different from Peter Lauer. For one, Egon Müller has mainly residually sweet wines and mostly Fuder casks. A notable exception is the entry-level Scharzhof Riesling, which is more off-dry and vinified in stainless steel. Florian Lauer ferments the majority of his wines in either fiberglass or stainless-steel tanks. He has about six or seven casks that are used for a few of his top dry or dry-ish wines, such as the GGs or Unterstenberg.

[Russell_Faulkner]

I’m quite sure Alex isn’t cross comparing different prädikat or styles Lars.

If anyone can without error identify wine raised in old fuder, stainless steel or tanks I’d love them to teach me.

[A_Gillette]

I’m quite sure Alex isn’t cross comparing different prädikat or styles Lars.

If anyone can without error identify wine raised in old fuder, stainless steel or tanks I’d love them to teach me.

Russell has me right. Lars, I don’t drink the technical data. I meant that the kinship between same pradikat wines of Prum and Lauer, based on the way the wines taste and smell, outweighs the kinship between Lauer and Muller for wines of the same pradikat, notwithstanding the fact that Lauer and Muller share the Saar while Prum does not. But I’m happy enough for someone to disagree with me on my premise in any event. If someone said they don’t see any similarity between a glass of Lauer spatlese and one Prum, I wouldn’t be so shocked. These things affect people differently.
A

[Lars_Carlberg]

To be fair, I haven’t tasted the 2018s of either J.J. Prüm or Peter Lauer, much less compared their Kabinetts or Spätlesen side by side. But I see your point. Perhaps their residually sweet wines are more reductive than those of Egon Müller.

Although no one is allowed in the cellar at J.J. Prüm, it’s pretty certain that the wines ferment spontaneously at cool temperatures in stainless-steel tanks, though some insiders say that the wines are vinified in fiberglass. The size and material of a vessel affects the taste of the wine, even if it can’t always be identified blind.

[Russell_Faulkner]

Of course it affects the wine. As does pretty much every vineyard method and other winery practice.

[Lars_Carlberg]

That’s true.

[Matt_Iverson]

AP 12 is also from old vines, even if only the one Euchariusberg Kabinett (AP 8) is designated as “Alte Reben,” because it is made from a plot of ungrafted, old vines. The parcels for both Kabinetts adjoin each other in the prime Großschock sector—the original south-facing slope of Euchariusberg (ca. 4 ha), which was highly rated in the 19th century and colored dark red on Clotten’s 1868 Viticultural Map of the Saar and Mosel.

Speaking of Krettnacher Euchariusberg, I’ve really been taken with Stefan Muller’s wines from that site as well! He has a few different bottlings, but at least one is an alte reben also from the Großschock section; Lars, I imagine you’ve tried it, anyone else? My German friend Oliver was stoked to see the wines in the US.

Really, the quality coming from the Saar in general right now, I think it’s hard to beat. A short term positive side effect of climate change, perhaps?

[Russell_Faulkner]

I opened two 2019 Stefan Millers this week, thoughts:

Krettnacher Altenberg Kabinett (09 20) is all red fruits, energy and sherbet, slate and lime in the background, light Spatlese in style but Kabi crispness.

Niedermenniger Sonnenberg Kabinett Alte Reben (08 20) is similar, peach puree rather than red fruits, softer.

A nice early check on 2019s, these were €10 each and indicate 8.5% alcohol, excellent value though not attempting the ‘old fashioned’ Kabi style I adore.

[Lars_Carlberg]

AP 12 is also from old vines, even if only the one Euchariusberg Kabinett (AP 8) is designated as “Alte Reben,” because it is made from a plot of ungrafted, old vines. The parcels for both Kabinetts adjoin each other in the prime Großschock sector—the original south-facing slope of Euchariusberg (ca. 4 ha), which was highly rated in the 19th century and colored dark red on Clotten’s 1868 Viticultural Map of the Saar and Mosel.

Speaking of Krettnacher Euchariusberg, I’ve really been taken with Stefan Muller’s wines from that site as well! He has a few different bottlings, but at least one is an alte reben also from the Großschock section; Lars, I imagine you’ve tried it, anyone else? My German friend Oliver was stoked to see the wines in the US.

Really, the quality coming from the Saar in general right now, I think it’s hard to beat. A short term positive side effect of climate change, perhaps?

To be honest, I last tasted Stefan Müller’s wines from cask. It must have been his 2017s. Yes, he acquired a 0.37-hectare old-vine parcel lower down the prime south-facing slope a few years ago. His other holdings in the enlarged post-1971 Krettnacher Euchariusberg are on other hillsides.

[Lars_Carlberg]

Thanks for your tasting notes, Russell.

[Jayson_Cohen]

Might as well plant another note here. Lars said this wine (AP 23), recommended to me by Nathan V, won Feinherb of the Year for vintage 2017.

[Lars_Carlberg]

Vinum Weinguide Deutschland awarded the 2016 Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb AP 3, 2017 Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb AP 23, and 2018 Niedermenniger Herrenberg Spätlese feinherb AP 21 as the best Riesling feinherb of the vintage. That’s three consecutive vintages that Hofgut Falkenstein was voted tops for an off-dry Riesling in Germany’s leading wine guide. The new edition comes out on November 2.