TN - 2019 Oddero Barolo - a real gem

[John_Morris]

@Tom_Reddick

I have made many a happy discovery trusting the Rosenthal import label. That is about the best guaranttee of a good experience as there is.

If Oliver represents a producer (on the West Coast), that’s also an excellent recommendation!

[John_Morris]

@Mikael_OB

Many Barolos in the Eastern part of Barolo (like Seralunga) are tougher in youth so that might play in.

Does Poderi Oddero have any vineyards in Serralunga apart from Vigna Rionda?

[Oliver_McCrum]

No, John, just the Rionda.

They have an unusually detailed website, oddero.it, for anyone who’s interested.

Thank you for the compliment!

[Rob_M1]

@Tom_Taylor

I’ve represented Oddero (Poderi) for a couple of years now and I just haven’t been moved by the wines. The only exception being the Barbera Superiore. I know they ideally need a lot of time, but I just find them to be unexciting in their youth. Looking forward to the 2019 Barolo “Classico” spoken of here, maybe this will be the wine that changes my opinion.

What I also must share is the distorted view, at least IMO, the supplier has of these wines. During her last visit in when speaking of Oddero she stated, “This is a top 10 Piedmont producer today”. I know, certainly a biased and very subjective opinion, but also a statement I can’t imagine many Piedmont lovers would agree with? Curious to hear others thoughts?

I sat with Oddero at La Festa this year and was really impressed with the two wines they brought, the 2013 Mondoca and the 2016 Brunate. The '16 Brunate is probably the best wine I’ve had from Oddero. The narrative that quality had slipped but in the past few years has increased a lot seems to be endorsed by the winery as well as critics, although I haven’t had enough bottles to say myself.

I think the wines remain a touch rustic and very old school. Tasting the 2016 Oddero Rocche after the 2016 Vietti Rocche, for example, was pretty wild on release in 2020 - the Oddero wine having so much less obvious fruit, more masculine and savory. But I think they are good to very good examples of classic Barolo.

I do think the pricing is maybe a touch high and the wines can be a bit tough to find in the U.S., especially the Brunate which is a small production. For example the '16 Mondoca is a gorgeous wine but is at least $110 in the U.S., and I don’t think it is at quite the same level as the '16 Vajra Bricco delle Viole or '16 Elio Grassos, which at least on release were available quite a bit less than the Oddero.

[Mikael_OB]

John, you’re of course right, among the single MGA that’s a no. I on the other hand figured that anyone who tried the Vigna Rionda and didn’t like it…

In general younger Barolo is not that easy to assess and it’s often really depending on luck and the moment you taste it (I know you know). +10 years something and things becomes more clear usually.

[Yule_Kim]

The narrative that quality had slipped but in the past few years has increased a lot seems to be endorsed by the winery as well as critics, although I haven’t had enough bottles to say myself.

I’m curious about this narrative. Please correct me if I’m wrong, but my general impression is that the Fratelli Oddero wines of the 50s and 60s were considered “great” wines, but there was a slight dip in quality in the 80s and 90s.

I remember back when the '04 vintage was released that Oddero had a very strong return to form (as reported by posters like Levi Dalton and Gregory dal Piaz). But, then the brothers broke up (in 2006? is that correct?) and Giacomo changed Fratelli Oddero to Oddero Poderi e Cantina and Luigi took his share of the Oddero vineyards and created Luigi Oddero.

I heard that the transition was particularly difficult for Luigi Oddero (the winery), especially after Luigi died, and that quality did not return until Dante Scaglione got involved. Was there a similar dip in quality at Oddero Poderi after the break-up, or is the “return in quality” people talk about referring to the 2004 and subsequent vintages.

I am also curious about the history because I have some older Oddero wines (an '04 Oddero Poderi Rocche and an '04 Luigi Oddero Vigna Rionda) and am curious whether those wines were made when the brothers were still together and whether they just put different labels on the same finished wine because they had broken up at the time of bottling.

[Tom_Taylor]

The split occurred in 2006. My impression of Oddero has long been of an underachiever. Admittedly this is not based on a ton of personal experience, more based on other’s opinions I respect. In the last 2 years I’ve had 2017 and 18 Barolo “Classico”, 2014 Vignarionda Riserva and 2019 Barbaresco “Gallina”. The one wine from Oddero I did like very much was at Galloni’s La Festa event focusing on the 2015 vintage, I believe it was their “Rocche”.

[Tom_Reddick]

@Rob_M1

I do think the pricing is maybe a touch high and the wines can be a bit tough to find in the U.S., especially the Brunate which is a small production.

The 2019 Brunate is showing available at a few places in Europe per WS, but when I checked in with the US distribution chain, word came back they usually get the wine as a library release- with 2011 being the last vintage they had carried.

Not sure if that applies across the US, but I am planning to source Brunate in Europe.

[Kevin_Diffley]

@Oliver_McCrum

the Barolo village wine comes from a few different holdings consistently, several in La Morra near the estate, and Bricco Fiasco in Castiglione, which for most producers is a cru in its own right.

I visited last spring and had the ‘18. It’s normally comprised of 2 vineyards in La Morra, 1 in Castiglione Falletto, Bricco Chiesa, Bricco Chiaso and one other. ‘18 was a little unique since not many single vineyards were made because of the rain, but it also included fruit from some of the single vineyards - Villero and Bussia.

I was most impressed by the ‘15 Bussia Vigna Mondoca I tasted.

[Yule_Kim]

I believe the Barolo Classico normally has Bricco Chiesa and Capalot from La Morra and Fiasco from Castiglione. I’m not sure if San Biagio is included (maybe Oliver knows).

As you noted, '18 also has Villero and Bussia.

[John_Morris]

@Yule_Kim

I believe the Barolo Classico normally has Bricco Chiesa and Capalot from La Morra and Fiasco from Castiglione. I’m not sure if San Biagio is included (maybe Oliver knows).

As you noted, '18 also has Villero and Bussia.

According to the Oddero website:

Vineyard
Location: La Morra, Santa Maria Bricco Chiesa, Plot 18, Sub-plots 503, 553, 443, 442, 552, 444, 483, 445, 612, 461, Capalot, Plot 21, Sub-plots 336, 348, 347, 560, 577, 575.
Characteristics: 200 meters above sea level, southeastern exposure, 2.7 x 0.9 meters spacing, 4,000 vines/hectare density, Guyot upward-trained vertical-trellised training system.
Age: varies, with the oldest being 60 years old
Size: 2.7 hectares
Yield: 70 quintals/hectare

Location: Castiglione Falletto Bricco Fiasco, Plot 7, Sub-plots 35, 36, 37, 38, 134 Characteristics: 250 meters above sea level, southwestern exposure, 2,70x0,90 meters spacing, 4,000 vines/hectare density, Guyot upward-trained vertical-trellised training system.
Age: varies, with the oldest being 60 years old
Size: 2.5 hectares
Yield: 70 quintals/hectare

[Markus_S]

I thought they had improved originally back around 2004-06, when there were changes afloat that brought them up a level? Those years were good ones, so if they have improved from that stage they must be competing along the likes of Rinaldi, etc.

[Glenn_L_e_v_i_n_e]

Any specific questions cognoscenti here want addressed?

[Todd_Tucker]

Markus, I think the improvements were much later than that. The family split was in '06. I really did not enjoy their wines in the 90s, 00s, and from then up to '11-'12 to the point where I stopped visiting them as I was pissed they were messing up such beautiful fruit. I am not sure when the barriques were ditched, but it was if I were to guess it was in '13. I tasted some of those and they were better than previous vintages, but also were '13s, a vintage I love. I did not go back for '14. A friend rec’d I retry them in the '15 vintage and they were marvelous. Since then they have much more clarity, depth and sense of place more than producer, and I mean that as a high compliment.

Also regarding a previous post, I am pretty picky and try to stay away form hyperbole, but I would not balk at the up thread statement that they are now a top 10-15 producer in the Langhe.

[John_Morris]

@Todd_Tucker

Markus, I think it was much later than that. The family split was in '06. I really did not enjoy their wines in the 90s, 00s, and from then up to '11-'12 to the point where I stopped visiting them as I was pissed they were messing up such beautiful fruit. I am not sure when the barriques were ditched, but it was if I were to guess it was in '13. I tasted some of those and they were better than previous vintages, but also were '13s, a vintage I love. I did not go back for '14. A friend rec’d I retry them in the '15 vintage and they were marvelous. Since then they have much more clarity, depth and sense of place more than producer, and I mean that as a high compliment.

I tasted the '06 Vigna Rionda Reserva there in 2016 – not yet released, as I recall – and that was spectacular.

[Todd_Tucker]

John, Different strokes I guess. I did not love it. I tried the 99, 04, and 06 Rionda there in '16. Here’s my notes on them.

2006 Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)	5/11/2016	cct
Deeper menthol and perfume. The fruit turns toward plum. There is a richness/glycerol mouthfeel and expansive texture, but it lacks precision and focus and comes off fat and polished. It is structured, but does not carry the structure well for me, and the lines seemed to be blurred. (837 views)

2004 Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)	5/11/2016	cct
Better perfume and with much more freshness than the '06. menthol- balsamic notes and truffle. Good balance and texture, with some subtle power. This is significantly better than the 06 tasted immediately prior to this for me. This wine should be the same wine as the Fratelli Oddero and Luigi Oddero 2004 Vigna Rionda

1999 Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)	5/11/2016	cct
Lovely perfume. More developed and savory than the younger versions served ahead of this. Not effusive but comes together very well. Hint of broth. Elegant but with power, and with a more savory progression than the 04 and 06. Excellent balance. This should be the same wine as the '99 Luigi Oddero and Fratelli Oddero Vigna Rionda (2233 views)

YMMV

[Tom_Reddick]

@Glenn_L_e_v_i_n_e

Any specific questions cognoscenti here want addressed?

Will 2019 Brunate come to the US market now or later? Understand if that is not a question you feel comfortable asking. Enjoy the tasting! Look forward to notes.

[Glenn_L_e_v_i_n_e]

Tom, assured it’s “on the sea” and Astor & Flatiron will have bottles once the journey is over.

[Oliver_McCrum]

I have been dealing with Oddero for about 5 years, as I recall, and I agree with your comments, Todd. We visited the estate about two weeks ago, I was very happy with their 2019s, a tricky (warmer) vintage.

I had the '14 Rocche di Castiglione recently and it was outstanding.

(I import Poderi Oddero for some markets.)

[Tom_Reddick]

@Glenn_L_e_v_i_n_e

Tom, assured it’s “on the sea” and Astor & Flatiron will have bottles once the journey is over.

Great news- thank you!