Thanks, Jeff!
The Cru Bourgeois were grandfathered in, when the UGC began. When a chateau changes ownership, they have to reapply, probably automatic with a Grand Cru, but not with a CB. Loudenne for instance lost its place when it was sold. I think Jeff is right, that Sociando is not an ordinary CB, and would probably be accepted if they applied.
Just back from the Toronto tasting, got through 41 wines I think (have to re-check my notes). I will try and post all the detailed notes tomorrow. I have enough energy for some generalizations today
DRY WHITES—I don’t think I’ve ever encountered more variability in style between houses than I did this year. And some atypicity too, Pape Clement being an intriguing example.
REDS — there were some reps who were all “vintage of the century, 1982, 1947” etc. I don’t like that when it’s not warranted. That said, I do think this is a good vintage for Bordeaux. Almost everything I tasted—not Langoa Barton, of course!----was more open and giving than I expected and I’d hesitantly say that if you had a Bordeaux newbie who was curious about the region, this is a vintage I might start them on.
OTOH, the wines were open to a degree that it was actually quite difficult for me to assess the ultimate bar for quality that they may achieve.
I’m quite sorry to read about your experience with it, David, because the Pichon Comtesse I tried was my WOTN and I think it was by more than a length. I admit to some PC bias—it is probably my favourite house in Bordeaux—but even with that factored in, it was terrific. I just couldn’t bring myself to part with $300 for a bottle. Even in Canadian pesos, that is a lot of money. I do think this is a vintage where the winemaker could factor into the discussion. (FWIW, I will have other differing views from yours, but that’s fine and that’s fun!)
SAUTERNES
– Pierre Montegut of Suduiraut was there and I admire and respect an honest merchant. When I asked him to compare vintages, he talked about 06, 04, 02—none of which are in the high celestial realms for Sauternes. You can skip this vintage, I think. Guiraud was best for me, only in that they understood the vintage and didn’t try to be any more than they could be. With the possible exception of 2014, the even-numbered curse (relatively, compared to their odd-numbered year cousins) continues for Sauternes.
The reps all seemed in pretty good spirits and were animatedly engaging in conversation. Perhaps they were just happy to be indoors from our -30 or so weather!
OK–enjoy the ride! 43 wines total, I think
2016 Chateau Valandraud
What a nice start! Great floral presence to bright berry and plum. It’s got some edges to fine out, but the core here is very, very tasty. A ton of sage and rosemary. Needs lamb soooo bad. Good future here. #7
2016 Chateau Pichon-Baron
Lurking tobacco, but clos-ed. Dark blackberry sifts through. Plenty of grip. Lots of mineral—iron—and tobacco around tart blackcurrant. Needs lots of time.
2016 Chateau Lynch Bages
Odd funk—almost sulphury thing in bouquet. Plum and blueberry tinges under. To taste, it’s present, with blueberry and raspberry, but rather foursquare and a little light actually. This bottle, at least, I think this has a ceiling.
*2016 Chateau de Pez
*
53% CS, 40% Merlot, bits of CF and PV. Rather sweet and lilting for St. Estephe. Sturdy, with a nice red fruit presence and tastiness. Same producers as Pichon-Lalande
2016 Chateau Pichon-Comtesse
I so love this. Just always smells of class and velvet and haute couture somehow. Rose petal, violets, lightest touch of cocoa and cinnamon, all around a core of plum. Mmmm—melts in your mouth, smooth as silk, such a dreamy wine, can get at it already but 30 years of life at least. I do confess to a certain bias—PLL is my favourite producer other than HB—but my WOTN all the same…92+?
2016 Chateau Canon
Some heady exoticism here. Touches of rhubarb around plum pie. Almost luscious—this has some feel of melted chocolate but is all gentle herbs, plum, sweet raspberry and potpourri on the palate. Already very complete but a long life as well. #5 tonight.
2016 Pape Clement Blanc
Usual composed and classy self in the bouquet. Acacia, lime peel, apple and a sort of sand/hay flick. A very clear and luminous wine to put on one’s tongue. Really expresses kumquat and kiwi but in a very fresh form. Still, a most interesting Pape Clement, so different from what I’m used to as their flavour style. #10 still for pure interest
2016 Smith-Haut Lafitte Blanc
Almost dead-clear in colour. Quite different from the Pape Clement. More of a mustard seed and white pepper things in the nuzzie. Rather odd duck in the mouth—it’s not bad, per se, but it doesn’t know what it is. I’m not used to that from SHL. That mustard element is clashing some with yellow fruit. It would be worthwhile perhaps to revisit in 2 or 3 years
2016 Domaine du Chevalier Blanc
Like the Pape Clement only intensified on the tropical—dragon fruit and star fruit….takes me kinda right to Singapore. On the palate, DDC’s signature slightly oily feel and an elevated punchiness work beautifully into the yellow and green fruit. Marvelous handling of the vintage, #4 and best of the whites.
*2016 Chateau Larrivet-Haut Brion Blanc
*
It was nice to see Bruno Lemoine again after some years. 75% SB and 25% Sem. Quieter—more reserved with more classic woody/forest and apple. Le gout is very, very apple a tiny swatch of pineapple on the side. Good, if not great.
*2016 Chateau Malarctic-Lagraviere Blanc
*
I kinda like this, sprightly minty aromatics with fresh apple peel and bosc pear just a bit. Palate doesn’t quite match the nose for interest. It’s solid white, but not an extra level or gear.
2016 Chateau Olivier Blanc
Last of the dry whites. Very subtle overlay of mustard and spice on top of hay and apple here. Fairly straightforward in the mouth, but there is good balance and presence here. Spiced tart apple curls around my cheeks. I wouldn’t be embarrassed at all to serve this to company.
2016 Chateau Balestard La Tonnelle
Some of my goal was to taste Chateaux that I never have had before, this being one. Rich, meaty bouquet. Some shoe leather too. Solid presence. Not shy, but not overbearing either. Sticks to your cheeks in a good way. 14.5% and handles it well
2016 Chateau Cap de Mourlin
The owner was pouring this and the last and he persuaded me to try. This one is lighter on its feet with a mix of red and purple fruit in nose and on taste. It has more charm right now than the Balestard, though I think that one is the more serious wine.
2016 Chateau Dassault
Aroma and palate centred on ripe plum. Open-knit and maybe a trifle showy for me
2016 Chateau Clos Fourtet
Lovely, lilting baking spices waft up the glass, along with blackberry and some licorice. Composed and strong wine here—working red fruit. Time will smooth out what may be a ripe-sided classic. #8, quite entranced me.
2016 Chateau La Dominique
Almost some soy notes here. Another one that is high on power and sweetness with concentrated chokecherry and redcurrant. A big wine.
2016 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur
Wow! Dany Rolland was pouring. If I’d had another hour, I would have loved to get talking with her a bit, but there was a crowd around her. Ah, well. Another one with meat and sweetnut notes sifting through. Macerated plum and boysenberry are the foundations. Just a barest hint of diesel. On the tongue, it’s plush-sort of—but disconnected right now. I make no bones that Rolland sometimes doesn’t make or help make wines in my style. This would be one of those, though the wine after the next one is the counter-example…
2016 Chateau Gazin
Now that’s nice—swirls of violet and pipe smoke with composed blue and black fruit. A lot of grip here and a marked kerosene note, but I do like it—it’s blended into the fruit of the wine and adds interest. Great length on this.
2016 Chateau Rouget
Another I’ve never tried and also consulted to by Rolland, I believe. 85% merlot, 15% CF. 65 year vines. A lot going on in the sniffer, including a very light swathe of molasses, which works here—I do keep nosing the wine. Ahh—me, that is smooth as anything. I told the owner—like a little odalisque—round and almost-exotic plush and truly lovely. Great integrated tannins, this was irresistible to me and I ended up buying 2 bottles. #3 tonight.
2016 Chateau Cantemerle
Bouquet keeps coming for you, a little more with each swirl, there’s definite complexity with mineral and leather included. Good mouthful of ripe-ish but classic Bordeaux. Cranberry and raspberry with plenty of acidity. I’m a little unsure whether the acidity will take too high a position in the long run, but the price for this begs one to try it and see.
2016 Chateau La Tour Carnet
Light nutmeg accents to bright red fruit scents. Touches of cured leather underneath. It’s got some classicism to taste but also is a bit too demure—doesn’t grab my interest really. Some florals added to red fruit replays.
2016 Chateau Gruaud-Larose
The Cordier funk is quite in the background as expression. A darling tobacco element to the aroma. Dans la bouche, sturdy wine—a vin de garde for this vintage. Really good, actually, all the stuff is there, but one would need to be patient.
2016 Chateau Branaire-Ducru
61% CS, 27% merlot, 9% PV and 3% CF. 35 year vines. Meaty and smoked meat whiffs here. On the palate, tremendous presence—still hiding plenty, but gobs of acidity, blackcurrant and chickoree. Almost juicy. Will be another one to reward patience and should show a lot over the course of an evening. #9, very intriguing stuff.
2016 Chateau Langoa-Barton
One of the women of the family was there to pour, so lots of fun to talk to her. Herbs of the finest. But there’s a crabapple side to the black fruit as well. No surprise—allow time. Shrivels your cheeks with the tannic power. Serious, serious wine here.
2016 Chateau La Couspaude
75% merlot, 20% CF 5% CS. Unfortunately, Vanessa Aubert was not on hand this time, I enjoy speaking with her. A fun cookie dough thing around redcurrant and plum bouquet. Tasty—and yes, more accessible than usual. Good structure and tannins. Just a fine glass of wine. #11
2016 Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot
No Caroline Becot this time, but I asked after her and she and her baby (now probably 2 years old) are doing well, was glad to hear. I think this was 80% merlot, 16% CF and 4% CS. The fruit thrums at you in the nose—plum, boysenberry, rhubarb. Absolutely pretty as a picture on the palate—open right now, and beautiful harmonious red fruit and spices. A gorgeous wine, had to buy one of these. #2 tonight.
2016 Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere
After missing him 2 years ago, I was very pleased that Comte Stephan was here again. He talked about the vintage in an interesting way—with a slash of 14 to 2010 as his comparator. This has interesting swirls of plum, mincemeat, a little beef blood and some violets. Sedate and very polished wine (no surprise from this Chateau), core of red fruit takes over. Like the Beau-Sejour, nothing out of place here. Another winner for this place. #7
2016 Chateau Haut-Bailly
Florals and minerality in the forefront here. Some nice smokiness. Mineral-driven on palate too. Still some exuberance but needs time to come into focus.
*2016 Chateau Les Carmes-Haut Brion
*
Pretty. That’s the word for this bouquet. Real leather component with black raspberry and black plum. Compelling. What a nice change of pace—very fresh indeed with tannins and acid well integrated. Cranberry and redcurrant, lots of interest and a chance to grow into something very good (although the price, at C$375 a bottle is a bit crazy now).
2016 Chateau Suduiraut
As is usual for me, about 2/3 or so of the way through, I switch over to shock my nose and palate and run the Sauternes and Barsacs all at once. It was a pleasure to chat with Pierre Montegut again and ask after Jessica, who took such care of us at the Chateau a few years ago. This is sooo lifted and light. Touches of their signature orange (Pierre and I discussed the distinctiveness of the house style) but a lot more fresh melon. Very accessible dans la bouche and very flavourful, but missing complexity and depth. 06, 04 and 02 are his vintage comparisons.
*2016 Chateau Clos-Haut Peyraguey
*
Also that lighter aroma. Pleasant, with pineapple and pear, but nothing really to see here.
2016 Chateau Guiraud
More cinnamon-apple spice on this aroma. To taste, that’s actually pretty good—they’ve taken the vintage and maxed out what they have without trying to be something it’s not. Spiced pineapple and the sweet white tofu/bean curd you sometimes get at Chinese restaurants—some of that—and it has some vibrancy.
*2016 Chateau De Fargues
*
Has the most botrytis presence—almost to a truffle oil level. Coconut aplenty. Quite concentrated for this vintage, with quince, kiwi and vanilla, but still short on levels and complexity and length.
*2016 Chateau La Tour Blanche
*
The wine I call the “fairy princess” does have some aromatic sparkle. Pretty to put on the tongue too, with an initial yellow fruit presence that mists away, it’s another that is not trying to be anything it’s not. Still, short-ish finish.
2016 Grand Puy Ducasse
Whoa! The tobacco is sweet and mesmerizing—along with a potpourri element, swoonful nose. Nice balance on the palate, potpourri and red berries. It’s maybe a touch shallow, but no crime for the overall product here.
2016 Chateau Clerc Milon
This too, is nicely lifted scent-wise. Pipe smoke is in the background to blue an black fruit and a swirl of sandalwood. Still a young, young beast. Needs a ton of time and not sure even then. Savage red fruit! Check back in 15 years.
2016 Chateau Clarke
Closed still—mocha a bit, cedar, red raspberry. I’ve liked this value Chateau but this one is a bit stiff. There are the building blocks but a ceiling as well (which I didn’t get with their 2010 version)
*2016 Chateau Fonreaud
*
Coffee liqueur here. Plum and blueberry too. This is 52% CS with the rest Merlot and 4% PV. Underlying florals peek through as well. In the mouth, this is nice too. Some bitterness, but I want that in a Bordeaux. The rep says he prefers these a little earlier than some Chateaux, 5-10 years out.
2016 Chateau Phelan Segur
Neat and curious chocolate note in bouquet. To taste, good, but rugged. Needs time. Blackberry and perhaps some nut skin element. A lot of acid to get integrated.
2016 Chateau Giscours
75% CS, 20% merlot, 5% PV. Most fragrant Giscours I can remember—so much mystery here a whole garden of delights, each sniff brings a different impression. Very young, but just takes the fragrance and runs with it. Really promising example, #6 for me tonight.
2016 Chateau du Tertre
60% CS, 20% CF, 15% Merlot, 5% PV. More forthright, this is, roses and flowers and sure red fruit with touches of grilled herbs. Softer, tastes of the perfume, not quite married up, but may get integrated with some more time.
Nice notes, Mike. When I get my notes transcribed I’ll post to my blog and stop in here with general comments. Your notes reminded me that I missed tasting Gruaud Larose and Cantemerle!
Thanks for the additional notes, Mike!
Thanks, guys - these are fantastic. Now if only Specs would tell me when my order of 2015 Bordeaux will arrive, I would be even more excited to hear about 2016!
Bryce, I received my 2015 Spec’s order 6 months ago. Not sure what you ordered, but you might want to call (if you have not already).
It depends on the negotiant. Sherry Lehman’s 2014s arrived at least a year and mostly a good deal longer than other 2014s arrived in the US. Zachy’s 2015 Canon arrived in the fall, the case I ordered from Sherry has not arrived and when I called customer service they had no idea when it was due.
I’ll add my notes to this thread from the UGC tasting in San Francisco. As I always say, it’s difficult to judge a large number of wines in such a short time, particularly when they’ve just been opened. No matter how much time you try to give your palate to recover, it’s not the same as sitting with a wine that’s had plenty of air and sampling it a number of times over a few hours. What I think I can say is that 2016 is a very good vintage. I found most wines to be fresh, not like 2015 where everything seemed a little more tired and slightly lighter bodied. 2016 seems less tannic and difficult to taste than 2010, not as ripe overall as 2009. The real classicists will have to hunt a bit for their wines, but for mainstream tastes, it’s hard to go wrong with almost anything.
I tend toward left bank, Cabernet-driven wines, but some of the right bank Merlot wines are extremely delicious this year.
A note about scores: I put scores on wines, mostly for myself, and because I think it conveys something about how much I like a particular wine, on top of written descriptors (which are limited just as much as scores in conveying personal reaction to a wine). There’s another recent thread about the proliferation of ultra-high scores, so I’ll say my piece about that here: I find it ridiculous to score a young wine 100 points. Beside the fact that there is no such thing as “perfection”, that leaves no headroom at all for evaluating wines once they reach maturity. For me, I use 95 as the absolute top score I’ll give a young wine, which is exceedingly rare. There are none here, partly because I didn’t find any that I thought deserved to be at that level; and partly because, without tasting the absolute top wines (First growths, Cheval Blanc, etc.) it’s a little presumptuous to elevate these wines to that level.
2016 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - medium dark, medium body, slightly lighter style, very nice dusty dark red fruit, has richness but maintains some elegance with good acidity, some fine rocky tannins, almost a volcanic note. Leaning more lush and modern but quite delicious. (92 pts.)
2016 Domaine de Chevalier - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Dark medium body, very nice deep red fruit, good acidity, moderate fine tannins, hint tobacco, tasty. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Haut-Bailly - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - slightly more lush, rich, though good balance, bit modern but tasty; 2nd taste later showed a bit darker and more brooding, classic. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Pape Clément - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Medium full body, medium rich, touch ripe, hint oak sweetness, a bit too lush and forward, has a slight bitter note on the finish. (89 pts.)
2016 Château Smith Haut Lafitte - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Medium body, bit of tobacco on the nose, has some restrained richness, medium dark red fruit, at first more elegant then turns tannic and a little backward; definitely needs age. (91 pts.)
2016 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Fabulous nose, some grass but plenty of other things going on, excellent flavor and depth, nice balance, so tasty, slightly softer than the best, cooler vintages, but very nice. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Very nice, slightly lush bright red fruit, excellent fine structure, a Merlot lovers wine for sure, needs time. Very tasty. (93 pts.)
2016 Château Canon - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Nice, slightly dusty/tobacco nose, more lush than some, medium somewhat brighter red fruit, a bit rich through the finish, softer tannins, quite forward and modern. (90 pts.)
2016 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - fairly lush but very tasty, softer fine tannins, for 85% merlot shows deeper red fruit, less brightness; not classic but showy and delicious. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Pavie Macquin - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - rich, brighter deep red fruit, quite nice balance with good freshness, a somewhat more restrained Macquin, quite tasty! (92 pts.)
2016 Château Valandraud - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - quite dark, deep, deep red fruit, particularly for a Merlot dominant blend, 100% oak not prominent, rich but balanced. Very tasty, this could be a high quality Napa wine. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Clinet - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Dark crimson color, deep red fruit, excellent balance and structure, quite masculine and deep for a Merlot dominant wine, beautiful wine for the long term. (93 pts.)
2016 Château Gazin Pomerol - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Deep red fruit, has the slightly brighter Merlot notes, perhaps due to somewhat less (50%) new oak? Still, has weight and depth, not the more feminine lightness this wine can have. Very nice. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Brane-Cantenac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Medium depth red fruit, a bit softer and more forward than most in the room. (90 pts.)
2016 Château Kirwan - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Medium body, very nice, elegant, good balance, slightly lighter style as this wine tends toward, tasty and a wine for earlier consumption. (91 pts.)
2016 Château Rauzan-Ségla - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - has a lushness, yet retains freshness and elegance, good balance, just a touch soft, though very tasty. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Beychevelle - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Elegant, medium body, medium dark red fruit, good balance, delicious. One to drink a bit earlier. (91 pts.)
2016 Château Branaire-Ducru - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - nice medium deep red fruit, straight arrow, good structure. (91 pts.)
2016 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Rich, deep red fruit, excellent acidity, fine structure, touch lush but excellent overall balance. (91 pts.)
2016 Château Gloria - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - quite dark in color, good medium dark fruit with a bright note, touch softer, somewhat forward. Good value. (90 pts.)
2016 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - touch riper than some, deep red fruit, quite tasty and forward, quite drinkable, more modern. (90 pts.)
During our conversation, the proprietor at the Lagrange table showed me this excellent video he had made of the region and his vineyard:
2016 Château Léoville Barton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - 85% Cabernet Sauv this year due to warmth of the vintage; fairly dark, wow, deep, rich, but controlled, dark red fruit, excellent fine structure, delish. (93 pts.)
2016 Château Talbot - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - fresh, brighter red fruit, nice acidity, lighter on its feet, tasty. (90 pts.)
2016 Château Saint-Pierre - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - starts out with some nice, medium rich red fruit, but falls off a bit fast, missing depth and length. (88 pts.)
2016 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Medium depth red fruit, touch softer, elegant, decent structure. (91 pts.)
2016 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - medium rich, good deep red fruit, excellent acidity, moderate fine tannins, very tasty. (93 pts.)
2016 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - Medium rich, deeper red fruit, medium fine tannins, medium finish, tasty, slightly reserved medium depth. Classic Baron, though I found the 2014 actually more interesting. (92 pts.)
2016 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (1/28/2019)
UGC SF - bit darker than most, medium body on palate, medium dark red fruit, hint of brightness and elegance, fine tannins, quite fresh and approachable now. (92 pts.)
Thanks for all those, Alan—did you taste any other white besides SHL? I see by your note order that you went in a much more orderly fashion around the tables than I did, darting from here to there.
I, too, use a score only if a wine pushes me to that extra level of descriptor. A 92+ for the Comtesse will put that wine at least at the outskirts of my WOTY discussion for this year. My #2 and #3 (Beau-Sejour Becot and Rouget) would probably be 89+ for both of those. When I grade, I don’t grade easy.
Your note on the Lynch-Bages along with the others really makes me think I did get an off bottle to try.
Salud,
Mike
Mike, I did not. Was leaving whites until the end, and by then I was pretty much out of time. I didn’t necessarily taste everything in the order I posted, though I typically try to taste the regions together. Notes go into the booklet, then I just post to CT in order of the book.
Love this thread! Very helpful!
FWIW: for people lamenting the high prices of some of these wines that hit some serious highs in 2016, Total Wine Concierge sent out an offer today that included Lalande at 185, Canon at 135, Rauzan Segla at 85, and baron at 160. probably the last time we’ll see some of these wines at that price based on the notes I’ve read in this thread.
I got that email and waffled, and then chuckled, thinking wow these are double the 2014 prices. Funny how we have become immune again to pricing. I passed, but admit to being tempted, but ultimately, I really do not need any 2016s that require 20+ years. Were I 40, I would do it.
I figure at 30 years old and fairly new to wine buying it does me no good to lament the fact that prices today in 2019 are higher than they were 5 years ago. don’t think I’m ever gonna live to see that kind of pricing. with that in mind, I try to tell myself that the price increase trend will probably continue, and I will never see a 2016 Canon or Lalande for this price again, since they’re already lower than most of wine-searcher! but, it doesn’t sound like these are wines for drinking soon thats for sure!
Sorry I meant 2014 vintage pricing.
And at your age, and money, I’d buy like crazy. Not sure your vintage preferences, but I’d buy even more 2014.
My thoughts from the UGCB tasting in New York…
First, I will say that I have never been terribly excited by young Bordeaux and rarely understand when people gush effusively about a new release Bordeaux. I enjoy Napa cabs as well, but even there, I typically prefer them with some age. Overall, it’s a well balanced vintage. I didn’t find the wines to be super showy and big, but more restrained yet with excellent concentration. The wines I didn’t like were definitely an exception than the rule.
Yet, the flip side is the pricing. And I really don’t find the wines to be so incredible that I’m rushing out to buy at these prices, especially the ones inflated beyond EP prices. But, as I said, I’m not one who gets excited by young Bordeaux. I’m likely going to be waiting on the next vintage with 2014 pricing to buy deep, with the exception of some value wines. Disclosure: I bought a little bit of Beychevelle, Calon-Segur, and Leoville-Barton on EP. Double Disclosure: I don’t know diddly-poo what I’m talking about
The tasting
A couple asides: I really focused on the reds, though I did like Doisy Daene the most of the Sauternes I tasted. Also, the Chanel people - not the most generous pouring lot.
Pessac/Graves
Somehow I missed Carmes Haut Brion. I thought Haut-Bailly was the class of the appellation. It had very promising length with nice stony notes on the nose. Nothing showy about it, but H-B just felt very complete. Domaine de Chevalier was more open and fruit forward, and had a more delicious factor to it for current consumption. Pape-Clement was also really excellent. Perhaps a touch cleaner in feel than the others. Smith Haut Lafite almost felt tropical. Not a big fan, especially for the price tag.
Pomerol
For me, Gazin was by far my favorite from Pomerol. It was a little burlier and structured side, but super balanced/reserved yet with excellent concentration and length. Clinet I just found hard to get a bead on, but I did get a little more feral/funk which I liked. The others were just not for me. Beauregard was quite fruity, Le Bon Pasteur rather bitter and unpleasant, Rouget was hot, and La Cabanne was actually not bad for the price/appellation, but ultimately left me unexcited.
Moulis
My favorite wines for the money came from here: As you’d guess, Poujeaux and Chasse-Spleen. I think I prefer Poujeaux here as it showed more structure and depth, plus a little more of that wet stoniness on the palate. Comparatively, the Chasse-Spleen was more open and fruit-forward on the nose and palate, but still really well balanced. I will be picking some up when they land.
Haut-Medoc
I was most excited by La Lagune, but also very confused. It has a wonderfully fresh bouquet on the nose, a little herbaceousness that I enjoy. Excellent balance and structure. But on a second tasting later on, I started getting some bitterness which I strongly dislike. So, basically, this is a wine you’ve got to taste and spend time with before going deep on it, I think. Cantemerle was structured, but noticeably light in body and color.
Margaux
Brane-Cantenac was the class of the appellation in my opinion. Fine depth and balance, good structure. Dunno if it’s got that “Margaux perfume”, but as a general wine in this Bordeaux tasting, I thought it was really good. Cantenac-Brown, which I tasted next to Brane-Cantenac, had a little much of that sweet oak. Giscours is another property that I think did really well. It was probably the most open of all the Margaux, and had wonderful balance to it, maybe in a slightly more forward style. Kirwan was little too oaked for me, and lacked depth. Lascombes had a slight bitterness on the finish. Rauzan-Segla was elegant and clean, but maybe that’s because I had so little wine in my glass.
St. Julien
St. Julien as a whole I thought was pretty solid across the board. Beychevelle was my favorite of the tasting. It was also just so open on the nose, it had by far the most exciting aromas of the tasting. Really explosive. On the palate it was very elegant yet also very layered in a way that many of the others weren’t. It might be just a luck of the draw thing when it comes to how well a wine shows, as I don’t know if it’s necessarily a “better” wine than the others, or it just had a good day. But bad wines can’t show this well, right? ![[shrug.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/4/48636ebda2a440a43ad8d24c83be20ac20c53420.gif "shrug"){kind=small}
Gloria was just ok, Branaire-Ducru, Lagrange, and Gruard Larose were solid to very good. Langoa Barton I thought showed better to me than the Leoville-Barton. The Barton was more impressive in scale, perhaps was the “biggest” of the St. Julien. A lot going on but also with some new oak showing as well. I assume it needs time to settle in, but I’m a little more mixed on the Barton than most it seems. I actually preferred the Poyferre here, which was one of the bigger St. Julien, but felt better integrated.
Pauillac
These felt a little more closed to me, so I don’t get all the hype as to how well these showed at other tastings. None of these were exciting to drink right now. That said, The quality of both Pichons and the Lynch Bages were quite evident in their structure, depth, and relative complexity. I think the Baron showed best. This is where I think the vintage has gotten a little overhyped, though I don’t have the tasting experience. Based on what little i’ve tasted of 2010, I think I’d rather have the 2010s compared to what pricing I’m seeing now for the 2016s.
Anyways, GPL was good, but like Cantemerle, was quite light in body. I’m all for elegance, but it just felt light, rather than elegant. Silly enough, I may have mixed up Clerc Milon and d’Armailhac notes. I think I really like D’Armailhac and thought the Clerc Milon was a little simple… but thinking back, I’m not so sure.
St. Estephe
Heard good things about this commune in 2016, but the UGCB doesn’t really have all that much to offer. Wasn’t impressed by any of these. Phelan Segur was oaked and slightly astringent. Not about to pay $50 to see if I was wrong.
St. Emilion
I like Valandraud, though a bit clean. Pavie Macquin had a weird sweetness to the fruit, almost like cherry cough syrup. Found it hard to coax much of a nose from the meager Canon pour, though it did seem like it had really nice tannins and length. The tannins seem really super fine, almost powdery, and super elegant. That profile seems to be a hallmark of Nicholas Audebert, as I got the same feeling from the Rauzan-Segla. We’ll see what the wines are like when they age. In general, the wines from this commune I liked the most were also absurdly expensive and quite frankly, not offering much value (to me).
The bottom line (for me): Really good, balanced, low alcohol vintage. A lot to like here, but I don’t understand how it’s gotten 2010 level hype. This may be just my palate speaking, but I’ve been more impressed by the 2010s, so I don’t see myself paying close to 2010 prices. Plus, I thought everyone agreed that 2010 pricing was an abomination? It almost feels like everyone has been clamoring for so long for “restraint” and “low-alcohol”, that suddenly we’re awarding an extra 4-5 points just for not being big, monstrous wines.
yeah, I stretched the timeframe a little bit with my comment I guess. I do like '14s for more classic style and good value. I like 08 for some of the same reasons. those moderate vintages followed by two good ones. thats the key! haha
Funny — yes. I bit on the Pichon Baron, albeit at $149; only futures I’ve ever purchased. Expensive? In my book, yes. Buuuuuut, this really does drive home how much value Bdx still has to offer when compared to Napa Cab. Yes, I realize they are different beasts, but still …