Would recommend Noble Rot (both branches), 67 Pall Mall, 110 Taillevents and Planque for interesting wines by the glass (lists are available on website or on Star Wine Lists which are quite updated).
Cheers Mike, one of the rare aged burgundy whites with relatively good access in Singapore due to a retailer with a huge cellar of back vintages and always a treat!
And agreed about the Tirecul, same person who brought the Marcoux as well so it’s rare I haven’t heard of two producers at the same time!
Mainly northern Rhône lunch with a star-studded line-up. Fantastic meal and service at La Trompette, glad to have ticked this off the list and met a fine bunch of WP folks.
2016 Domaine Nowack Champagne La Tuilerie Extra Brut- France, Champagne
Similar to previous impressions of this producer. Ripe but lean citrus fruits, I am a fan of his new-school style that has tension without being too strict. (91 pts.)
2018 Domaine du Pélican Chardonnay Arbois Grand Curoulet- France, Jura, Arbois
Thought this could have been a Burgundy at first but it became more nutty with air. Not too complex and an easy-drinking white, didn’t quite hit the heights of the best Jura producers.
2017 Ramey Chardonnay Rochioli Vineyard- USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Quite a divisive wine. On paper this was supposedly one of the most Burgundian Californian whites but it wasn’t the case here. Some reductiveness on the nose, oak influence was palpable on both nose and palate, round tropical fruits. Didn’t mind this as I thought it was quite well-made without being soulless but some didn’t like it so much. (92 pts.)
1998 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Blanc Les Rocoules- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
A treat to have tried one of the top Rhône whites. A slight sherry character with almond and nutty notes. Aroma was quite different to the floral notes of young Rhône whites that I have tried before. Guess more than 20 years is a good time to open Rhone whites, the fruit was quite expressive and not shut tight as I have read that Rhône whites can be disappointing in their adolescence. (92 pts.)
1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
My first Chave Hermitage from the generous host. This was Gerard’s wine I believe with the restraint and elegance, a very silky and sensual palate for a Rhône. Very pretty red fruit. Was the best wine of the lunch for me but not by a huge distance as one might expect. (94 pts.)
2006 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Quite a contrast to the Chave alongside, a more international style but not anonymous like most Chapoutier reds that I have tried. More power and a darker fruit profile than the Chave, drinking well at the moment. (92 pts.)
2006 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Another producer that I don’t normally seek out but I thought this was the second best wine of the lunch. Heard from another friend before that this might actually be Rostaing’s best wine and on this evidence I do agree. Great poise and balance, lots of depth to the dark red fruit. Agree with the previous taster that this was still quite youthful. (94 pts.)
2005 Bernard Levet Côte-Rôtie Les Journaries / Maestria- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Agree with the previous taster again that this might have been flawed. No discernible fruit and lots of chalky tannins, mildly corked? NR (flawed)
2006 Clusel-Roch Côte-Rôtie Les Grandes Places- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
My contribution and first time trying this producer. Nose was the one that stood out among the wines with an appealing kirsch note, but on the palate it was clean and understated without much trace of alcohol. Very much in my style, my number three for the lunch. (93 pts.)
1995 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Thought this was similar to the earlier Chapoutier but further along in its ageing curve, but not sure it being softer can be attributed to the appellation or its age. (92 pts.)
2006 Alain Voge Cornas Cuvée Vieilles Fontaines- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Similar to the Chapoutier in terms of style but a little more rustic. Tannins are coarser and needs more time to mellow out. Glad to have tried this producer as I don’t think I have had it before. (91 pts.)
Had a couple of wines that seemed like bargains off restaurant wine lists but unfortunately I think their provenance wasn’t the best. Restaurant wines
2009 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape(18/6/2022)
Saw this off a wine list in Provence for less than 300€ but unfortunately not the best bottle, probably saw a little heat damage somewhere along the way. Rather dark red in colour and showed some stewed raisin notes with a bitter finish, no Rayas elegance here. Took the bottle home but no improvement over the next two nights.
2016 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie- France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie(20/6/2022)
At Le Bistrot de l’Oustalet since the restaurant was closed during the days that we were there. Similar stewed qualities to the Rayas, and surprisingly soft without structure for a young Jamet. Again, not bad but not what I expected probably because of poor provenance.
2016 Domaine Bertrand Stehelin Gigondas- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas(19/6/2022)
Dense purple fruit, garrigue, very correct for Gigondas but not my kind of wine. (88 pts.)
Tasting at Clos du Caillou
Pegau and Becaustel weren’t available so we went to Clos du Caillou where Cecile took us through a nice tour and tasting. The entry-level wines were good value for the price but nothing compelling, the Domaine de Panisse wines were interesting in that it showed a more northern Rhône profile.
2020 Le Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône Reserve- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône(20/6/2022)
Was very impressed by the 2015 before and this was similar in terms of crunchy red fruit with lots of concentration. Very good and will beat many CDPs (but of course it is one).
2020 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape(20/6/2022)
From prime plot of Pignan beside Rayas, this was tightly coiled and had more structure than the Quartz. Also had a more obvious new oak signature and a darker fruit profile, best to leave this for 10 more years.
2020 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz- France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape(20/6/2022)
Best of the 2020s shown during the tasting. Wouldn’t have been in CDP for this, very fresh and lighter styled for the region. Loved the elegance on this. Took a bottle home to have with dinner and this put on weight with air to become a more classic expression.
The man in the picture is Joel Durand who runs a great chocolatier in St Remy de Provence, really delicious and glad we tried it. Enjoyed the smaller villages much more than the more touristic cities of Nice, Cannes and Monaco the last time that I was in the south of France.
2001 Vieux Château Certan- France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Stunning nose which is not something I say about Bordeaux often. Seductive plum fruits, long and expansive finish, such a seamlessly integrated wine. (95 pts.)
2005 Château Montrose- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Didn’t show as well as the VCC alongside, similar to the previous note from a couple months back with the animal funk and brooding fruit being the primary characteristics of this wine.
2014 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot- France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Light and elegant style, charming red fruit with a silky texture but slightly underpowered for a grand cru. (91 pts.)
2010 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato- Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
I think the only reason to pan this wine is because it is so approachable for a vaunted vintage, possibly without as much stuffing as expected. Very similar to the 2008 Ca d’Morissio I tried earlier this month but softer, had the producer signature of ethereal red fruit and aroma of rose petals. Tannic bite at the end. (94 pts.)
2018 Donatsch Pinot Noir Unique- Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Bündner Herrschaft, Malans
Not as impressive as the 2020 tasted last week, this was riper and sweeter in a new-world way. Nonetheless the depth and concentration of silky red fruit were still very impressive. (91 pts.)
And that’s a wrap! Glad to have finally returned to Europe after five years away, glad it still feels very much like home
I find it hard to expect that restaurants in Provence, no less, serving high quality, pricey wines would not take careful measures in storing and serving them. I understand that bottle looks does not tell the full story and wines can be damaged and stewed upon serving.
Did you take up the wine issues with the restaurant(s)?
Ah, La Trompette. Fond memories evoked of my two meals there. Food and service are indeed top-notch. Sorry to read about the damaged Rayas, but lots of other fine wines looks like. Next to HB and Pichon-Comtesse, VCC might be my favourite Bordeaux producer, though I’ve had only a few bottles to try.
The first seemed like a small traditional restaurant who did put the wine in an ice bucket to cool it when serving, and I didn’t take it up with the restaurant because they seemed really nice and they said the wine was amazing so I took their word for it and brought the wine home to see if it would get better, but it didn’t.
The Jamet was at the bistro not at the restaurant whom I believe would have taken utmost care of the wine. The wine shop was closed when I was there but I did see bottles by the window and I’m not sure if there was AC within the shop so didn’t fill me with confidence about the bistro. But of course may be other factors at play here!
Appreciate the input Patrick, will try them if I get the chance - though I seem to have bad luck with the Rayas stable, just realised I have tried the 08 Fonsalette a few years back and think it was corked!
I enjoyed Barbary too. Pretty casual but good vibe.
I really liked Medlar in Chelsea, very assured cooking and top notch service, well priced too for the quality.
The Ledbury in Notting Hill still excellent.