Venice has the reputation as something of a culinary wasteland. It is not a place one associates with fine dining, certainly not when compared to other regions of Italy such as Emilia Romagna, Tuscany and Piemonte. There is much truth to this observation, and more so when one realizes that many of the restaurants in Venice exist for the sole reason in feeding masses of tourists quickly, many of whom will never be back. There is little incentive, then, for restaurateurs and chefs to take pride in what they serve. The irony, of course, is that Venice and the region of the Veneto is rich in food products, most notably fish and seafood from the Lagoon and Adriatic, and vegetables from the islands. Rather than take advantage of this bounty, cynical restaurateurs have for many decades resorted to using, among other abominations, frozen fish imported from Asia and frozen and canned vegetables that can come from anywhere. Indeed, a seemingly dire situation for those interested in a good meal.
Can one eat well in Venice? Yes, if one is resourceful and does the requisite research. Some twenty-five years ago, a number of concerned restaurateurs and chefs met to discuss the state of Venetian cuisine. They were, of course, well aware of the sad reputation of their beloved cuisine. Ideas were discussed, and after much back and forth, the Ristoranti della Buona Accoglienza (literally, “restaurants of good/excellent welcome/hospitality”) was born. The twelve to fifteen restaurants that belong to this organization vow to preserve the integrity of Venetian cuisine, using excellent local products, good/great wine lists, a good price quality ratio, and warm hospitality. The visitor in search of true Venetian cuisine can find brochures of the Ristoranti della Buona Accoglienza in tourist offices (one of which is in the Santa Lucia train station), tobacco shops, and in the member restaurants themselves. It can also be found online.
The culinary ethos of Italy centers on impeccable products cooked simply so the natural taste of the ingredient shines. Vegetables, for example, are often dressed with nothing more than a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and a dash of herbs. Treated as such, a zucchini tastes like a zucchini, and a tomato like a tomato. Grilled fish is treated in the same way. Italian cuisine does not attempt to transform a product, save for the Michelin starred places in Italy that offer a more international style of cooking.
The bounty from the Venetian Lagoon and Adriatic is astounding for its variety. Go to the Rialto fish market early in the morning and see the range of fish and seafood caught the night before. One evening at Alle Testiere, I asked Luca if he could find razor clams for the following evening’s dinner. He said he would try. The next morning, I saw him at the Rialto fish market, choosing, among other things, razor clams. He saw me, smiled, and said “for your dinner tonight.” Priceless. The razor clams were quickly sauteed in olive oil and garlic, and finished with a dash of parsely. I can still taste it as I write it.
With so much fish and seafood on offer, the white wines of the Veneto and neighboring Friuli are recommended. Winemaking in the region has improved over the years, and if one drinks local wines, they are often quite good and affordable. Don’t forget Prosecco, grown in Treviso in the Veneto region. Vini da Gigio, a member of the Buona Accoglienza, has an astounding wine list that features not only the wines of the region, but strays farther afield if your tastes run to Toscana and Piemonte.
As a caution, not all of the restaurants listed in the Ristoranti della Buona Accoglienza live up to their guarantee all of the time. Fiaschetteria Toscana, for example, can provide rude service because they are always full. Their wine list is not updated regularly, the cooking can be tired, and their quality price ratio tips in favor of price.
Avoid the restaurants in the vicinity of the Piazza San Marco and Rialto that advertise tourist menus. The menus are written in five or six languages, and the tariff is relatively cheap. If it sounds too good to be true…
And then there is Harry’s Bar, the former haunt of Hemingway and Orson Welles. Mostly everyone who visits Venice at one time or another either has a drink there, eats lunch or dinner, or sticks their heads in so they can say they went to Harry’s Bar. It’s been coasting on its reputation for decades, and why not, when the lure of Hemingway or spotting a celebrity fills the imagination of those for whom Venice has a romantic appeal. I went twice during my first ever trip, once to drink their famed Bellini (invented at Harry’s Bar) and once to eat dinner. A proper Bellini is made using the puree of fresh white peaches and Prosecco. White peaches are in season in Spring and early Summer, and I doubt Harry’s Bar uses it when it is cheaper and faster to use canned peach juice. The latter is what was used when I went in winter. Not only was it expensive (for a small glass!), but tasted pedestrian. Dinner was, let’s say, not memorable. If you have euros to spare and feel like getting fleeced, have a meal at Harry’s Bar. Recent reports by friends confirm that it has not changed its ways.
Other than tips I received from the locals, the Buona Accoglienza has always been my guide to culinary nirvana. It’s worth consulting.
One can, after all, eat well, indeed, very well, in Venice.
The next post will detail the darker aspects of commerce in Venice.