WB Burgundy Appellation Weekly Tasting - Week 2: Gevrey-Chambertin (including Brochon)

No, I actually MEANT (Flagey-)Echezeaux !
(please do not bet on my trials to indicate the correct pronounciation … the problem is not to know how to pronounce, it is how to write it down for English speaking people !)

Yes - no “s” pronounced : like “won´t” without “t”

Fourrier Gevrey Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2007

-First words, “Holy crap, that’s good!”
The wine starts beautifully light pure red ruby. The mouth was so full and yet so light, with a natural lightly sweet red wild forest fruit attack. Each sip I say, “I love Burgundy!” I notice less iron and cherry than I would expect, but more subtle spice- not Vosne-like, but close. At times the wine seems light and nimble, but it hints at supreme depth-especially for Villages, not as rich as much as full or maybe ‘bristling’. Excellent and a tad better than the Bachelet-which was in itself awesome. I probably won’t have the willpower to let some of this stay to tomorrow, but I’ll try. Highly recommended.

is this a preview of an upcoming Garagiste “mystery wine”?

OOPS! Surely you knew exactly which wine I was drinking;)

Correction made!

2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Vielles Vignes Domaine Heresztyn
A bit soft, a bit sweet and a bit oaky. Not a bat bottle of wine but not what I was hoping for. No signs of the structure or rusticity I was expecting nor any sign of greenies which I always worry about when opening a 2004.
Paired reasonably well with lamb on mother’s day.
In my VERY LIMITED experience, I have had more issues with 2004 in California than in Burgundy.
E

Charlie:

I could not agree more with your post about the 2007 Fourrier GC. I had this a couple weeks ago and it is drinking wonderfully for such a young pup of a wine, with a lovely bouquet and lipsmacking red fruits. Opened the 07 Bachelet on the same day to compare the two and the Bachelet was more closed, structured and rough around the edges. While I feel that the Bachelet will be a very nice wine in a few years, it needs just that, while the Fourrier is fantastic right now.

01 Sylvie Esmonin “Clos St. Jacques.” Wintergreen on the nose which gives a more of a feeling than taste on the tongue. There is another thread about TNs using middle school memories - bingo! Used to be a distance runner and we slathered ourselves with Ben-Gay, our addled brains thinking that might make our scrawny punker bodies scream jock.

Might be lifting off the wine, but seriously interferes with any appreciation of CSJ, let alone Burg.


A.

2002 Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vielles Vignes
Been crazy busy recently and ran into this thread as I was drinking this wine on night 2 of a bottle.
This is a village level wine that fights above its weight- great earthy texture mingled with ripe fruit- not particularly elegant, but delicious- very much Gevrey, very much 2002.

2006 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin V.V: If you deconstruct young Village Gevrey you generally are left with some minerals, cherries, meat and earth. If you then re-construct Gevrey in perfect proportion you get the 2006 Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin V.V. It is highly fragrant and has just a hint of sap and a posy of fresh Arum lilies along with all of the ‘Gevreyness’. It is beautifully pure and transparent and whilst not particularly deep you can feel all the rocky detail with every sip.
Cheers
Jeremy

Due to busy work schedule, I won’t be able to pop a Burg before the weekend, so thought I’d re-post my most recent foray into Gevrey.

1996 Pierre Amiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Combottes"
Medium maroon-red with tinge of purple and slight clearing on the edge. Sweet perfumed cherry nose with a hint of what I call vegetal (almost a stewed tomato, savory characteristic that I don’t find unappealing). Not much discernible Gevrey spice. Palate is medium body and concentration, still some cherry fruit evident, with decent mid-palate concentration, a slightly bitter finish of medium length. Medium-minus complexity and perhaps a bit muddled or clunky. Surprisingly not overly acidic, and the tannins are well integrated.

Overall, quite pleasant but not spectacular. This is probably nearing its peak. I doubt it will gain much more complexity, but it doesn’t seem to be in danger of crashing anytime soon either.

I have enjoyed this producer’s MSD 1er crus and Grand Crus for pretty, straight-forward and pleasant Burgs at a reasonable price.

2004 Gerard Raphet Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes 1er Cru
Sappy and then some. Pure balanced sour red cherry fruit. No evidence of blue, black, pink or purple…the epitome of red. The loam and minerality are very subtle and an unreasonable amount of imaginative searching might reveal traces of celery stalkiness. Lip smacking attack. Excellent acidity. Tart moderately intense midpalate. Pleasing easy going finish (1ers need 10+ years? Never drink Burgs between their tender youth and maturity?). Remarkably accessible and easy to quaff. The wife gave me her “hope you have more of this” comment. Glad we do. I was wowed a couple years ago…and still am.

RT


Quick follow up on Day 2. I shared a bottle of this several months ago with a fellow wine geek. The initial reviews were consistently positive, but overnight I was told about a troubling Jack-and-the-beanstalk routine. Yesterday I witnessed a bit of it myself. The imaginary celery transitioned from fiction to fact. A disruptive difficult to describe stalky, green-ish smearing of the late midpalate and finish. Not encouraging. I’ll probably keep 1 or 2 for research but will, without hesitation, pop and enjoy the rest young.

Nice to see notes on Amiot and Raphet - two producers who I don’t know a lot about, but have really enjoyed the limited samples I’ve had. They seem to get fairly luke warm reviews - mainly criticised for lack of weight. But I think that profile - of surprisingly intense and long flavours while remaining light and ethereal - is just what I like.

Interesting TN about Amiot and Raphet.

Coincidently Pierre Amiot was almost the first producer I bought from in Burgundy, that was the 1986 vintage in 1988 … and later the 1988 …
Ok, 1986 a bad vintage … but also 1988 didn´t convince me later … so I switched to other producers.
I bought at Raphet (now son Gerard) since 2002 (but no 2004), but have purchased older vintages with his father Jean back to 1993 … always a good reliable source, and after 2002 getteing better and better …

Have you tried any more recent wines from Amiot, Gerhard ?

My wife has a bad cold, so most likely no wines this week. Here is my last Gevrey:

2000 Domaine Denis Mortet G-C Combe-du-dessus

Cork in good shape. Dark cherry red with some bricking. Red fruits and mushrooms on the nose. Palate starting to show secondary or tertiary (depending on where you stand in the great debate) characteristics to go with the red/black fruits and a little brett. Some whole cluster, I suspect, notes also add complexity to the flavor profile. Could use a push of acidity. Features the smooth texture that maturing Burgundy does so well. Slightly better than my last bottle of three years ago.

Michael,
nothing after 1996 … I´m not sure since when the son is in charge …
Pierre died seme years ago … isn´t it?

  • 2001 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (5/12/2010)
    Finally, a pristine bottle. No VA. No significant brett. The nose is a focused deeper cherry with elegant earthy notes interspersed. Good fruit and significant minerality on the palate. Very long in the mouth with excellent complexity. This is wonderful

Posted from CellarTracker

Don, thanks for posting the note on Fourrier. Nice to hear it performed well. How many of these had you opened up that were, well, different in that sense?

2 or 3 bottles out of 7 have been pristine Ray. Just a bad run until tonight.

For the tasting, tonight I opened 1996 Joseph Roty, Gevrey-Chambertin, Cuvée de “Champs Chenys.” I am not posting from CT because of the maddening fact that this wine is about 5% corked. You can taste the wine but it is like peering around an “obstructed view” at the opera. I am getting sweetness on the nose but mixed with raw mushrooms, “black pepper” – at any rate I know the corked smell and that’s it. Maddening because there is a sweet nose that is very Burgundian that is hard to describe because of the flaw.

On the palate Burgundian flavors, a sweetness and some fruit – but diminished because of the cork.

I have to say this wine is enjoyable with sautéed chicken tenders with shallots and baked potatoes with tzatziki. But it could be better.

Fortunately I am not a supertaster of corked wines. Louise is much better at perceiving the corked odor and she is also finishing her glass. SO it is a tiny taint but definitely there.