WB Burgundy Appellation Weekly Tasting - Week 2: Gevrey-Chambertin (including Brochon)

What is it about the wine being a little corked that makes it anti-ct?

Update on the Fourrier.
This one really has an explosive finish now.
Persistent.
This is what I had hoped for when I purchased these.

Not really surprising here.
I had several bottles of the Clos de la Roche 99 which were delicious.
Wished I had been a patient guy in many ways.
However you can’t say bad things when a wine tastes great.
I can only imagine this.

Ryan.
This sounds so fabulous.
Lucky guy.

What I like about CellarTracker is that it makes a tasting note eternal and widely available.

I have not been good about posting TN over my many decades of drinking good wine, and belonging to a wide variety of wine boards, partly because I thought that there was not much point because the TN were ephemeral and not widely available, not a real public record. For example, think of the massive number of TN on eBob which now, most of us can not view.

But when a wine performs in an anomalous manner, it doesn’t seem to call for that kind of preservation. This is not what the wine “really” tastes like. If it had been massively corked I would not have bothered posting a note at all. As it is I felt compelled to write about it, but didn’t want to leave a record in CT.

I had the 2006 version of this today at luch Nice wine, a little funk on opening almost a touch of reduction but with a swirl it was really quite nice and offered nice fruit framed with nice acid. A bit fuller than I expected, and paired well with a dry aged ribeye sandwhich with some mushrooms and onons and some mac and cheese.

just posted a thread about 2000 Ponsot (Chezeaux) Griotte Chambertin. Very nice wine!
alan

Serafin Pere et Fils Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers – 2004
Raspberries, slightly confected cherries, and sweet strawberries with cream and lightly salted butter. There was a slight funkiness and the strawberry turned into strawberry rhubarb at one point which added a welcome bit of tartness to this intoxicating nose. The raspberries make the journey to the palate, but there they became more sour and less distinct. The red fruit almost fizzles in the mouth. Some metallic flavors were detectable but they remained totally unobtrusive. Musty log and crispy chicken skin flavors were also present, but I was hoping for more pronounced secondary characteristics, especially because the wine isn’t bringing notable power or focus. When I cheated and added some cheese, however, this was a different beast. With some Delice de Bourgogne and the Saint Marcellin in particular, the palate became a waterfall of candied rose petals and lavender. I’m usually only seduced by complexity, but this wine was quite delicious, super silky and woven together seamlessly. If additional complexities were to appear and everything was cranked up a bit, this wine would be really good. People seem enamored with this bottle on CT, but the scores seem a little exaggerated. Maybe my second bottle will yield more. 90

2001 Fourrier CSJ
closed, as agreed upon by a palate at a fine wine store in NYC.
i think it will be great in 5-10 years, but can’t tell at present as I never know how to judge a closed wine. i leave that to the experts.

And whoops. I thought this was going to be a note about a Domaine Guillard Gevrey ‘Les Corvees,’ and how it had put on some flesh since last tasted. Instead, it’s a note about another Guillard 05 - the 1er Cru Gevrey ‘Les Corbeaux.’

Guillard is a tiny Domaine. A virtual one man show of a winery that makes rustic, old school Gevrey. There are 60-some cases of this wine produced in a given year. I stumbled across this winery in 04, where the wines seemed to avoid that fatal flaw…

And there’s nothing flawed here. Deep, rich notes of blackberries, with a hint of top soil, flowers, cedar and strawberry preserves.

Generous and round, with broad Gevrey shoulders. Vibrant, but there’s lovely richness in the middle and finish. Good, rustic intensity.

Hiding the rest of my stash, to avoid a repeat error!

Pierre Amiot 05 Combottes on tap for the weekend. Also trying to find Leclerc Clos Prieur.

How do people feel about Gevrey? Maybe it’s because my first great Burgundy experiences were Gevreys, but I have a soft spot for this village. Yet it seems To me Gevrey doesn’t get the same level of love as Vosne or Chambolle.

Thoughts anyone?

Hey Jim,
I really do enjoy this village as well. I biased though.

As it goes at times, I hit so many that are just too young. Very pleasurable wines for sure. But this is a village that is tricky as it shows so ‘well’ young that I drink them before they develop secondary notes. Having a mature 1er cru can be eye opening. Chambolle is similar in this. Vosne shows a bit more of what is to come, from what I have seen. Reading notes from some on the boards makes me cringe that I have drank so many bottles too young in general.

Jim, which producers did you first fall for? Any specific vineyards?

Yes I think so - from what I can gather Jean-Louis and his brother have been in charge for quite a few years.

I did visit Jean-Louis a couple of years ago - I think he was showing the 2005s which I thought were pretty good (but then again lots of people did well with them). I must confess my French was not good enough to understand much about the changes that have happened.

I think that this poses an interesting question about what to do about posting on flawed wines (particularly on an aggregator like CT)? Because on one hand you want to warn people if there is a particularly high incidence of flaw, but on the other you don’t want to establish that the anomaly is the norm. I tend to think posting the wine as “flawed” is the way to go, but what really bothers me is when someone posts a terrible score for a flawed wine, and particularly when the flaw appears to be related to storage/transport issues or even to age. I don’t really care what you would score the wine if you stored the bottle outside in your backyard for seven years. I guess this only bugs me because I tend to use the CT scores as shorthand (more to gauge evolution than actual quality I think).

Interesting note on the Serafin Gus, good cheese choices (I buy the Delice de B all the time because it is so nice but not too funky for a diverse crowd) but rather than being “cheating” they probably better illustrate what the wine can do. Maybe I’ll grab some for my own Gevrey entry tomorrow.

TN: 2006 Trapet, Gevery-Chambertin

Had this with dinner at Turlock’s in Ft. Lauderdale. Wed is half price wine on all bottles. Paid $77 which I thought was very reasonable for the wine at a restaurant. This village wine’s nose was somewhat muted, but still pleasant. A young burgundy that showed itself well as it got some air. The palate demonstrated some earthiness, dirt, slight oak and had a nice balance of acidity and fruit. Gained a bit of weight over the 1 hour it took for us to consume this botttle. The finish was very long in my opinion. Wine pleased the entire table and was a truly enjoyable find on the restaurant wine list. A typical burgundy that should age well for next 10 years, but is rather enjoyable now although no secondary flavors exist.

2004 Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Fonteny -
I had low expectations based on producer and vintage. It was interestingly quite good, dark red ruby color with red fruit profile, mushroomy, some herb and asparagus notes that made it interesting for me. Bing cherry flavors, bright acidity and minerality, and decent finish. Paired well with some beef bourguignon using some of this wine in it.

Frederic Esmonin in the 95 vintage. Not the greatest producer, but his 95s were solid wines that really showed me how distinctive the difference between the various levels (village, 1er and Grand Cru) and also between various Grand Cru terroirs. I really fell in love with Griottes over the years, plus the various “St. Jacques” 1ers.

This is an interesting question, and I hope there will be some discussion of it.

I love Chambolle-Musigny above all other communes, as my very favorite wines are those that are exquisitely delicate in texture and yet intense in fragrance and flavor, with grip and persistence. Chambolle when it is “on” does this better than any other commune IMO. I love Volnay for the same reason.

I think of Gevrey (and Vosne) as more solid, more masculine in texture and shape, but no less complex. Gevrey is fertile hunting ground for great wines, nine grand crus, plus Clos Saint Jacques which is equivilent to grand cru IMO, plus upper-tier 1er crus such as Cazetiers, Combottes, Combe Aux Moines, and Saint Jacques of the Lavaut and Estournelles persuasions. And then 20 more 1er crus beyond these top ones… IMO it is very exciting to explore among them, searching for the differences, the similarities, the values.

I am waiting for Kevin Harvey to fill me in on Brochon…

One thing I find interesting about Gevrey vis a vis Chambolle and Vosne is that the Grand Crus are much more varied in quality. Vosne’s top Grand Crus are in the hands of a few producers, and DRC owns outright the best two, and dominates several others. La Romanee is a monopole. Yes, Grands Echezeaux and Echezeaux are more fractured, but the “best” examples of Vosne Grand Crus come from only a few sources, most of which make top wine.

Musigny is much the same - there’s a limited number of dominant producers.

Chambertin and Clos-de-Beze, on the other hand, provide many more versions, and it seems to me like the gap between best and worst is wider than any non-Flagey Grand Cru in Vosne. I wonder how much that affects perception?

I think the different characteristics of Gevrey’s best Grand Crus vs. the “lesser” Grand Crus is fascinating.

For me, Gevrey’s best 1ers outshine the 1ers of Vosne and Chambolle, with the possible exceptions of Amoureuses and Cros Parantoux. That seems to me where Gevrey’s strength lies.

I really like Frank’s take on not skewing scores. I hate when I see really low scores on wines that are more than likely flawed. However, I do like it when people post flawed wines, just so I can maybe pick up trends if they exist.

A couple from last night:

2007 Domaine Denis Bachelet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin (5/13/2010)
Very fresh, almost a beaujolais like combination of crunchy pure fruit and rocks with just a hint of game lurking. Middleweight on the palate but the fruit is perfectly ripe and in perfect balance. Could be more complex but I think this is a pretty big success for 07 and is a very enjoyable drink. Reminds me of Fourrier’s 07’s to some degree.

2001 Domaine Heresztyn Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru (5/13/2010)
At first hints at Gevrey typicity with some iron, game and dark fruits but the wine is quickly overwhelmed on the nose by brett, and the palate is unfortunately stripped with a metallic, bitter finish. Gack.
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