St. Joseph has exploded in popularity the last 10 years with Jean and Pierre Gonon lifting the appellation on top of the wave of their brilliant wines. Before they became popular, St. Joseph was often overlooked and many wines were less than inspiring. Also, the region was hit hard by phyloxera in the middle of the 19th century. But now there are so many great producers it is difficult to sort out. We’ve been going to the Northern Rhone for the past 4 straight years and have learned a tremendous amount and tasted even more. Today I bring my top 10. I have starred out the producers with whom we have a direct relationship.
Jean and Pierre Gonon - The undisputed champ have been making soil-inflected, soul crushing St. Joseph for decades but only caught on in the USA when my old boss, Davjd Lillie, imported them directly to Chambers Street Wines starting with the '04 vintage. Ageable like only the best wines can be and they actually really need age. Try and find the rare VV cuvee to have one of the greatest Syrah experiences anywhere in the world. For a real thrill try the St. Joseph Blanc which, for me, is the best white of the whole appellation.
Bernard & Fabrice Gripa - Based literally across the street from Jean-Louis Chave, the Gripa family makes stunning St. Joseph’s in a structured and deep style that takes years to unwind. The cuvees here to get are the St. Joseph Le Berceau Blanc and Rouge which are some of the deepest, most complex and structured wines in the appellation. These demand age and require 5-7 hour decants when young. The regular St. Joseph is lovely and can be drunk on the young side but will age. These tend to have darker fruit than the Gonon wines.
Jean-Louis Chave - Despite only making one estate St. Joseph (not including the negociant “Offerus” here) it has to be on this list as it as majestic as Chave Hermitage. Deep, structured, dense and pure beyond belief this is a vin de garde but I don’t see it going as long as Gonon or the Gripa “Le Berceau” cuvees. It is full of flavor and character but has always seemed a bit plump to me, which makes me thing it won’t last as long as the others I mentioned above.
Jean-Claude Marsanne - The wines are bloody, characterful, soulful and dripping with dark fruits are what to expect from these classic and sublime St. Josephs. They also have great acidity and freshness. Very layered wines. He also makes a fantastic white but, for me, it needs 5-7 years of age to show well. But after those 5-7 years it is terrific. He is a huge sleeper on this list.
Andre Perret - For the elegant and mineral infused style there is no one better than Andre Perret. His regular and “Les Grisiers” cuvees are exercises in classic St. Joseph with wonderful restraint, freshness and and structure. These don’t hit you over the head but are truly lovely wines for lovers of finesse and restraint.
Emmanuel Darnaud - He makes a microscopic amount of stunning St. Joseph from a plot his father-in-law, Bernard Faurie gave to him. Very old vines and poor soils have launched this wine into a sensation amongst the wine cognoscenti. Structured and intense with old vine sap and lots of dimension. He knows it is great and prices it like that. Very hard to find.
Bernard Faurie - Faurie’s St. Joseph is an uncompromising classic with stern tannins, bold fruit and tons of gravel notes. So reliable and always great.
**Domaine de ******* ******** - For a St. Joseph to drink now for its sheer fruit and a very high degree of pleasure there is no one better than Sylvain Gauthier. Full of fruit and layers with lovely earthy/mineral tones and such vivid fruit. He also makes a tiny bit of St. Joseph “Sans Soufre” which is a rockstar and the value here (both under $30) cannot be overstated.
Domaine Habrard - Another estate that is on here for a single St. Joseph from the micro terroir St. Epine which is absolutely one of the best wines in the appellation. Ridiculous amount of fruit. Super dense and sweet. Really sweet fruit that is original and compelling. Huge amounts of mineral. The wine has a tremendous amount of character. From .6 hectare of 100 year old vines. Simply incredible.
Aurelian Chatagnier - Pure and crystal clean and a white on the level of Gonon/Gripa. Bloody, meaty, vivid, fresh and juicy style. Touch of new wood sets everything off perfectly. Amazing acids here.
Warning: I own a stake in a wine retailer that may have sold these wines in the past or may sell these wines in the future. Obviously, we will try to sell wines that we think are best in class. This is not an offer as we are not selling any of them now. If my writing does inspire you to buy these wines, please buy them from someone else. Better yet, save your money and spend it on something else. Like a nice haircut.
Does anyone else have a top St Jo list?