2012 Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs- Germany, Nahe (7/31/2016)
Absolutely glorious showing for the 2012 Halenberg GG. The nose is almost painfully intense without being hard-edged in any way. A wave of lemon curd, savory herbs and spices, and a wet, stony minerality that carries through to the expansive and choral (yes, like a choir) palate. There is lovely balance here, and harmony of flavor and texture. I challenge anyone who finds GG’s to be hot or too acidic to find those elements here! Many of the words I’m trying out as I write this imply sweetness, and so I’m rejecting them because there was nothing here that would make you think sweet. Fruit in abundance, to be sure but so deft and delicate that it makes you forget the power behind that delicacy until you can’t anymore because it just hit you like a gust of air from a passing train - makes you catch your breath, almost. My only criticisms at this point in its evolution are a slight wateriness in the mid-palate, which I think will fill out with time (and might have with air had we given it enough, but it was so drinkable, we couldn’t keep our hands off), and a finish that is just slightly shorter than you’d expect given everything else. This is the first out of a case for us, and I have high expectations for the remaining 11.
That surprises me quite a bit, Bob, as I think you would really like the style and Moore Brothers carries them. I think of Keller, Emrich-Schonleber and now Schafer-Frolich as the Holy Trinity of dry wine producers. I have a preference for Schonleber’s Halenberg over Schafer-Frolich’s, though both can be epic wines, and we buy both. To me, Schonleber tends to be more powerful and deep, whereas SF’s is lusher and brighter. Schonleber’s Halenberg can also be a bit standoffish, though, and some vintages take a good deal of time. It’s also gotten more expensive in recent years, sadly.
I’d be curious to hear from others on that question myself. I haven’t had them side by side before - that would be a great comparison!
Yep. You used to see these priced roughly the same as Shafer-Frohlich, which usually got discounted after the current vintage hype, but in recent years Emrich-Schönleber has been high and higher.
Emrich-Schonleber was one of Lyle Fass’s favorites, if I recall. He brought a few to a dinner we had about 8 years ago and they were outstanding. I specifically remember a halbtrocken that was out of this world, but in CT it looks like they do not make it, or perhaps do not bring it into the US, any more. I tried to find it after that dinner but gave up after a while.
The two versions are very different. Emrich-Schönleber Halenberg GG is usually fairly accessible when released, then closes down after one or two years and opens back up after seven or eight years. Schäfer-Fröhlich is very difficult to assess within the first seven or eight years. The Schäfer-Fröhlich GGs (all of them, actually) usually have a very wild spontaneous fermentation stink, which in my view is the most extreme you can find in Germany. It’s more extreme than Prüm and Schloss Lieser combined. You can sense the quality in the Schäfer-Fröhlich example by its electricity in the mouth, but the nose is very difficult to read for years.
Personally, I very much prefer the Emrich-Schönleber version, which is great almost every year. Its signature “aromatics” are (like you write) lemon, spices (in my view, particularly ginger), sometimes hay and wet stones. I like Schäfer-Fröhlich, too, but I prefer wines from other vineyards: Bockenauer Felseneck and Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg above all others.
Thanks Steven. I appreciate the compare/contrast and my tastes are very much in-line with yours. I have a strong preference for the Schonleber Halenberg, and like other SF GG’s more as well.
Big fan of Schonleber. Visited there a few years ago and I’m a fan of the wines throughout their range. The basic Mineral trocken should not be ignored if you love the GG. I’m holding on to a lone bottle of the '11 GG that Werner Schonleber sold me from his personal stash because the 12s were not yet for sale; if anyone has views on best time to open the '11 I’m all ears. Sarah, if you ever get to visit they have a lovely tasting room with great huge photos of Halenberg and Fruhlingsplatzen that they use as visual aids as they lead you through the tasting. Fun stuff.
Thanks Alan - my husband has visited there, but I never have and certainly will when we go next. It’s one of our largest Riesling holdings, and we are huge fans at every level.
We actually have no GG’s from 2011, not sure why, so I can’t help you there. Have them back to 2003 and spatleses back to 2001.
I’m not sure. I suspect the dinner was sometime between 2006 and 2008. He brought a couple of them. It was the first time I had E-S wine. I vaguely recall a 2001, but I do not recall if that was the Halbtrocken. He brought a few different ones.
Schönlebers Halenberg is consistently one of Germanys, and the worlds,finest white wines. Especially in 2004, 2008, 2010, 2012. I am sure also the recent vintages were stellar too in Monzingen.
They make the qba halbtrocken Lenz every year, since 2004 I believe. They also previously made both Halenberg and Frühlingsplätzchen in halbtrocken versions. I have some from the 90’s.
Sarah, did you try the Halenberg R? Its a gem.
Claus - I have not had the Halenberg R. I will look for it, thank you!
I have on only bottle left of the '08 Halenberg GG, which I hope I can keep from drinking for a while. Agreed on that, and the other vintages you mention. We also very much enjoy the Frühlingsplätzchen. I like just saying it, too.
YES, Claus is right…Halenberg R with a little bit of RS is magic.
Sarah, if you have time…come to Berlin on 2nd september. We will taste Halenberg/Frühlingsplätzchen GG from 2003-2015 in Berlin with the winemaker Frank Schönleber. 25 bottles. Claus is also there.
Thank you Martin, very kind. That sounds like a great event. We sadly have no plans to be in Germany any time soon, but it will be on or calendar at some point for sure and I will reach out.
