Neal Martin posted an article today in Vinous contrasting the 1988 and 1989 Bordeaux vintages from recent tastings. Good reading for those with subscriptions. In this particular set of wines, he favored the 88’s. I’ve always loved the Bordeaux 88’s in an @Robert.A.Jr type of way (and I mean that in the most complimentary fashion). They tend to underscore the tasting adjective “lovely”.
Edited to add that I interpreted that he preferred them, possibly incorrectly - see RF’s post below and my reply to RF. Maybe @NealM can comment.
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Lovely vintage!
Have had the Lalande, Latour and Magdelaine 88 over the past year. Really loved these classic, leaner, crisp wines. I think 2014 will evolve this way. Have to admit, though, the 89 LLC that I had on Saturday night was smokin.
Not a subscriber tho would love to read this article.
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- 1988 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (6/21/2024)
High toned, zippy acidity. Feels very fresh on the palate. Very savory, with a hint of cedar and graphite, some green bell pepper, and an undertone of dark, brambly fruit. A little austere when popped and poured, but benefits greatly after being in the decanter for several hours. The tannins are not particularly drying or astringent at this point, though I would not say they are fully resolved. They still provide a touch of grip. Delish.
Posted from CellarTracker
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1988 took twenty plus to come round. I have been really enjoying them lately. Recent ones, DDC, Pichon Lalande and Rauzan Segla have been excellent, but the only wine that earned more than a 95 was a stunning bottle of Lafite out of magnum.
1989 is just a great vintage.
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My thread on the 1988 Magdelaine, which Brad even posted on!
I need more 1980s Bordeaux!
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I searched for posts and your decade old tasting was one of the few.
Another fan of 1988 here. This was one of the young vintages on which I “cut my teeth” when I started drinking wine in 1995, and while I enjoyed them- I did not buy very many given the flashier presence of 1989 and 1990 plus my close following of ratings at the time since I did not yet have the confidence or experience to better understand what I really wanted from wine.
In their youth and middle age, the only real concern I had in some cases was that often the finish was a bit clipped compared to other top years. But while they never really stood out, I always enjoyed them.
Fast forward to the past decade and 1988 is a personal favorite. For my palate, Lafite and Magdelaine are the ultimate luncheon clarets. And I mean that as a great compliment- they are sturdy and classic but also harmonious and understated making them ideal for an extended meal with simple fare like a good boeuf bourguignon or steak frites.
I have also found Mouton, La Mission and Pichon Baron to be quite impressive- and now that they are fully mature and open, they can be serious contenders even in a crowded community tasting event.
But best of all for me has been Petrus. For 20 years it has been in a perfect place and I love how harmonious and relaxing it can be coming from a chateau that typically is geared to stun and impress, which makes for a memorable wine but not always a team player in a seamless evening of great food, great wine and great company.
One critical thing is to give them plenty of air in advance- even today I think an hour is mandatory and 2-3 is ideal. 1988 Burgundies are even more demanding- 4+ hours is often essential or you completely miss out on how great they can be.
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I am not sure how it is faring these days, but about 20 years ago 1988 Leoville Las Cases really dazzled me the one time I had it. 2008 is the only other vintage I have found so personally compelling- but that one has been a bit more reluctant and is just now starting to really strut its stuff after extended airing.
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I love 1988 Bordeaux but I can’t think of many Chateaux that in my experience are better in 88 than 89.
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Brad, I hate to disagree with you, but in today’s article Neal absolutely did not prefer the ‘88s. In general, he scored ‘89s (and preferred them) higher. In most cases (Haut Brion, LMHB, Petrus, Pichon Baron, Lynch Bages, etc.) much higher. There were a few notable exceptions (e.g. Lafite). Neal’s general point of view was that, while ‘89 is the much more highly prized vintage, to the point of nearly ignoring 1988, there were still many fine Bordeaux from 1988. And in some cases (Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron. Leoville Barton) very fine aged Bordeaux could (in 2024) be purchased for a fraction of the 1989.
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The reason I started collecting wine was because of a supper generous friend bringing an 88 Margaux to a tasting back in 2015. I savored the pour I had for 1-2 hours, and still remember how the nose was different almost every time I went back to it.
Any thoughts/experience on 88 vs 89 sauternes?
I have found Sauternes pricing often follow reds. So the 89s cost more but for my palate the 88s are as good or better (Suiduraut, Lafaurie).
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This was very true of the '88 Lalande. I was a little disappointed when I tried it after opening, but boy, did it sing after a couple of hours in the decanter.
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Just Yquem- and while the 1988 remains a fantastic vintage evolving at a glacial pace, I have found the 1989 to be getting a bit overblown and oaky for my tastes. Certainly not a bad wine, but I would rank it third now in the famed 88-89-90 trio, and by quite a margin.
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I guess technically you are correct. I’m not much of a points guy. And I love the vintage and find the 88’s emotionally appealing every time I drink them. So his final statement kind of led me in the “preferred” direction, which may just be what I wanted to read 
. “My takeaway from these dinners was to drink more 1988 Bordeaux.”
I haven’t seen the article but I can imagine having a similar sentiment. In my experience 81 and 88 have been nice vintages that have been relatively overlooked. If you like the style, they can be very good deals. The wines may not hit the heights of 82/85/89/90 but can be excellent.
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Both 1988 and 1989 are very good vintages, but generally 1989 turns out better on the right bank and Graves (and at Merlot dominated producers) while 1988 seems to be better in the Medoc/ with Cabernet Sauv.
Hard to beat 1989 Conseillante, L Evangile, Angelus, Haut Brion ( but also Montrose and Palmer), while I prefer 1988 Mouton, Lafite, Latour, Rauzan Segla to 1989 -
however I love more 89s than 88s - the latter often lacking really ripe sweet fruit, laying more on structure
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“These wines exuded an increasingly rare sense of classicism that is becoming a valuable commodity in the glaring light of global warming.”
Come on, what’s Neal been smoking?!
Many 88 Left Bank are great (most of the Righties are a little joyless), but in almost every side by side comparison, I prefer, often strongly, the same chateau’s 89.
Let’s name an 88 we prefer to the same chateau’s 89. I can’t think of any, even for my favorite 88s (Lynch, PLL, Haut Brion, Rausan Segla, Meyney), I prefer the 89.
Ok, I think the 88 Meyney can match the 89 (and might have aged better), but what else? Maybe Gruaud Larose?
That nit picked, I really enjoy many 88 LB; along with the 86s, the 88s are the ultimate steak wines for me.
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Gruaud Larose is the only that comes to my mind, but I haven’t had too many of both. I do enjoy 88s but I think more in the vein that Mssrs Reddick and Frankel suggests.
I read Neal’s 2014 report and realized how our palates have diverged. This only confirms it.