I noticed a solid uptick in the complexity of this bottling in the last few releases. I’ve attributed to vine maturity.
Yes, I think you’re both right - the Clos Guillot 2016 impressed me a lot more.
When did you last taste the 2016?
In October 2022 - it was great apart from the brett!
I think we need a new data point soon then!
Think I have 6+ 2016’s at home, so I will put one in queue.
Continuing the Baudry conversation … Just had a glass of the 2020 Clos Guillot.
On open some subtle funk (reductive and/or Brett); after an hour in the decanter, quite clean and floral (violets). Inky purple. Med- body. This is quite elegant and Burgundian. There are lovely blue fruits and some nice spice that builds into the finish (including a bit of pyrazine). Also something mineral in the finish.
This isn’t the most complex Baudry I’ve had and I’m not sure that it’s built the for the ages but it is really nice and complete … Somewhat weightless and very fresh with everything in the right place.
Good to know, Andrew, thanks! I enjoyed two crisp reds this week:
Catherine and Pierre Breton - Clos Sénéchal - Bourgueil 2016
and
Mélaric - Clos de la Cerisaie - Saumur Puy Notre-Dame - 2015
Very similar, they could have come from the same address. Both had lovely floral noses, full of peonies and other spring flowers, with gorgeously pure bunches of cherries on the palate. Very fresh, crisp and elegant, quite acidic but not too much, Both cost 21 euros. Trying them side by side, the Mélaric just won - with slightly more depth and body, but both come highly recommended.
Got around to open a 2016. I wouldn’t say that it lacks complexity. Initially it feels more fruit forward than La Croix Boissée, but it certainly hides a decent complexity under the fruit. Everything I would expect is there, just more subtle maybe. Decent length, but maybe it lacks a bit here compared to La Croix Boissée.
In regards to the vintage, then the 2016 is already drinking very well. It is a great vintage. All elements are very well balanced. I think this will age well.
Really enjoying it.
I had the 2020 Baudry Guillot yesterday and wasn’t thrilled, low levels of brett which didn’t play well with the acidity or fruit profile. On the other hand, a 1996 Breton Bourgeuil Clos Senechal was glorious. In contrasting 2017s a Chevalerie Bourgeuil Galichets was cloudy but that did nothing to impair its enjoyment while a 2017 Joguet Chinon Dioterie was disappointing, marred by both VA and EA. I didn’t really get notes on a 2012 Thierry Germain Marginale or 2019 Guiberteau Chapaudaises as they were paired with the Breton which drew most of my attention but I recall liking them. Finally, I liked the 2018 l’Ecu Mephisto, refreshing with red fruit and a little natty tang but clean.
Sounds like Guillot to a T. Thanks for the note!
2020 Baudry Grezeaux:
We drank the first half of this bottle late last week. This was poured from a 750 to the brim of a spare 375 screw cap, and this note is from day 5.
On the nose explosive cab franc aromatics, charred poblano, Virginia tobacco, green olive, bit of Brett funk, bit of red fruit.
On the palate medium grained tannins, mouthwatering acid, medium finish. Somewhat odd combo of silky mouthfeel of the liquid itself with tannins that leaned just a touch rustic. Crunchy red fruit and savory tones in line with the nose.
A very fine Loire red. On pop and pour this had more fruit and proportionally less savory characteristics.
Mai & Kenji Hodgson VdF O Galarneau
Haven‘t seen this mentioned here. Apparently a poster couple in the natty scene, better known for their Chenins.
100% Cabernet Franc but it could be something else. Volatile acidity is strong in this one. A slight fizz in the background, with rough edges and metallic and acetic notes. Earthy notes, licorice, graphite, fruit free.
Better left to hardcore „natural“ wine aficionados.
On the up side, the cork has a (fantasy) bird on it.
I bought a few Hodgson wines a few years back.
Both were horribly acetic and mousy.
A lesson was learned.
I had one Chenin from them a few years back. Never bought more…
Ouch. Thanks for the warning guys.
Sounds flawed. Thanks for tasting and posting about it, so we don’t have to.
Thanks all - good to know about the Hodgson - I’ve toyed with the idea of buying some but never have - now I probably won’t.
Three very nice reds this week:
Château de Villeneuve - Le Grand Clos - Saumur-Champigny 2002
Confirmation of last year’s revelatory bottle - this is a monster of a wine, the antithesis of the lunchtime lightweights that most Parisians think Saumur-Champignys are (to be fair, those served in Parisian bistros normally are). Full bodied, broodingly powerful, blending mature blackberry, dark raspberry and black cherry, still some way to go before full maturity so I’ll try and hold off for longer next time. 93 pts
Domaine Frédéric Mabileau - Les Coutures - St.Nicolas de Bourgueil 2010
Such a beauty - red cherries and peonies on the nose, then a savoury blend of wild strawberry and red cherry, with a little rosehip and redcurrant, and a long, persistent finish where the blackcurrant gives it just enough crispness. Silky elegance, effortless class - impressive though the Villeneuve was, this was clearly more attractive on the night. 93 pts
Domaine Frédéric Mabileau - Eclipse - St.Nicolas de Bourgueil 2017
The Coutures inspired me to try this, since it’s still available. Much darker than the Coutures, with darker fruit - this one is dominated by blackberry and blackcurrant, like the 2015. Still a work in progress, but already very impressive indeed, this is classically styled, with none of the crunchy fruit their other wines sometimes have, it’s more savoury than precociously fruity, with wonderful texture - creamy yet light enough to retain elegance and finesse, all the while wielding impressive heft. Perfectly balanced and a mere 13°, as usual for this domain. Probably 92 pts for now but 94 or more in five years.
I’ve probably said this before, but I really recommend that any Loire CF lovers try the Mabileau wines. They’re all extremely impressive, but the best cuvées are Coutures and Eclipse. The latter is only produced in top years - 2017 is the last so far; before that there is 2015, 2014, 2010, 2009 and 2008 (plus seven more older vintages). They’re excellent value - the Coutures costs around 18€, the Eclipse 28€, so the Eclipse is now cheaper than Alliet’s Coteau de Noiré for example, or the Joguet wines, and around the same price as Baudry’s Croix Boissée, for an (at least) equivalent level of quality.
Sadly, Frédéric himself was killed in a flying accident in 2020. His widow and son have taken over and so far seem to be making wines at the same level of excellence.
Just opened a 2021 Baudry Clos Guillot.
This is quite different than the previous vintage.
Pours purplish garnet. Decanted for an hour. On open big expressive nose. Florals and brambles and a touch of earth. Tiny Brett note on open.
In the mouth, fresh with raspberries and blackberries and a touch of sour cherry. Some minerality - iron. Some earth. There is a lot of bright acidity and some velvet tannins. Medium body.
Finish has some assertive bitterness on top of minerality.
This seems to be a much more persistent and likely complex Guillot than the 2020.I think this is also going to age much better. That said it also needs some more age for things to come into balance.
My guess is that 2021 is going to prove to be a fascinating vintage in a lot of France for reds (have not had enough whites to know) because of the freshness of the wines. Will be for people who like older styles of wines and not so much for the bigger is better crowd.