2022 Moric Blaufränkisch, Austria, Burgenland. Opaquely glowing purple core, the magenta rims equally as dark and luminescent. The nose reeks of peanut shells and merde, struggle to get at the plum, blueberry fruit, some underlying spiciness, heavy and reluctant to open up. Full-bodied, fleshy if dry. Tannin has some oomph. Cleaner here and the fruit really comes forward well. Acidity is on the volatile side, puckering. Air does bring out florality. Not sure this is “natural” but seems close to me. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2010 Bedrock Syrah, Hudson Vineyard South, T’n’S Blocks. Dulled black color, opaque, bricking rims with some glow left, visually looks like an older wine (not over the hill old). Abundant roasted meats and mesquite grill smoke in the nose, lower key tapenade and cocoa, the fruit is getting plummy unto pruney, while still perfumed to a point has a heavy nostril presence. Medium-bodied with both tannin and acidity capable of add briskness. As a result that heaviness in the fruit does get relieved through the mid-palate to finish. Which some may or may not prefer. Attack is on the sweet side, more molasses and caramelized brown sugar. Something like ginger. It has aged well and offers a fair bit of tertiary development. Given the usual comparison to Rhône Syrah of such age I’d probably want more cracking acidity.
2017 Bedrock Syrah, California, “Coast to Foothills”. Purple core still has vibrancy and it’s only the rims that look aging, shifting to a more crimson cast, shine somewhat lackluster, whatever. At first the nose has more peanut shells than the takeout floor at a Five Guys, quickly orange citrus, violets and leather take hold, bit of mocha, plump blueberry, blackberry, cherry scents, not heavy at all. Medium-bodied, like the sleekness and forward momentum. Acidity level is plus and noticeably adds to the whole. Tart fruit and citrus helps the palate tingle. Mild herbaceousness. That citrus builds with each sip. Appealing consistency, start to finish and sip to sip, easy to pound. I did not sample this on release, just through the recent library release. Can’t comment on the past but in a very good place now.
2015 Bedrock Petite Sirah, California, “Drummond’s Cuvée”. Black purple core of full impenetrability, dull rust red to crimson rims, surprised the glass came clean when washed later. Oak remains formidable in the nose, the perfumed plum, currant scents help edge out the former, menthol and mocha, smells like a Petite Sirah which means throwing a burlap bag filled with crushed black fruits over your head and having someone big keep squeezing. Shocked to say it’s medium-bodied, has lost weight since tasted in June 2017. In turn the tannin isn’t out for blood. Not to say it isn’t dry. Buttered popcorn. Florality pronounced, not much citrus. The fruit becomes a mashup, more flavor than sweetness. Different than before but qualitatively a wash. Grapes sourced from Eaglepoint Ranch (Mendocino) and Palisades Vineyard (Calistoga).
2017 Bedrock Sonoma Valley, “Beduccini”. Purple core has dulled some, doubly so for the rust red rims, looks like an aged wine. Jammy, berryish nose with a broad mentholated streak, minimal oak presence, orange spice, hard to know what to expect in terms of development with about seven years behind it. While it’s generally medium-bodied it sloshes around so for me you feel it everywhere. Menthol and pine rise above all else. Here get some oak creaminess and tannin. Boysenberry, blueberry, black cherry flavors, on the sweet side. Flattens out through the finish. At times the Zinfandel personality pops out but most of the time it comes off as a kitchen sink blend. Not a bad thing but makes it hard to describe. Grapes sourced from Puccini Vineyard, Bedrock Vineyard. Unspecified percentages of Zinfandel, Grenache, Syrah, Peloursin, Petite Sirah, Negrette, Valdigue, Persan, Mollard, Black Muscat, Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Tempranillo.
2021 Martin Woods Cabernet Franc, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Tualatin Hills, Tualatin Estate. It would be generous to call the core purple, it’s clay red to brown coloration, broad yellowing rims, fine clarity. Pine sap, dried orange peel, cough syrup, and candied cherries are the bulk of the nose, any herbaceousness seems accidental. Medium-bodied with a velvety mouth feel, glides in a semi-sticky way. Smooth tannin, probably more there in an analytic/technical sense than what I am experiencing. Sweet cherry, dark berry fruit, hard candy concentration. Here the bell pepper shrugs off its chains to be heard. Twiggy with tobacco and loamy earth elements. Creates a big inner mouth perfume. Spicy, tingly finish. Sort of an edge case Cabernet Franc, after awhile you’d guess but you’d be wrong the first few trys. (Composite Cork: Diam10)
2022 Damiani Maréchal Foch, Finger Lakes, “Vino Rosso.” A dark, sort of rust purple core to rims, clean and has a sort of “warm” look to it. Firm base of cranberry, rhubarb and cherry in the nose, there’s leather and damp underbrush but nothing close to what I’d consider “foxy,” dissolves easily at the end. Light-bodied, puckering acidity, not overdone and mostly through the attack. The tart red fruits accord themselves well with some drop off at the end. Tarry earth and tobacco most evident here. A white citrus bite brightens the finish. This is a very credible wine, could be sipped or go with lighter dishes, maybe a Vitis riparia version of how you’d use Dolcetto? For $19 happy with it. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2023 Red Tail Ridge Riesling, Finger Lakes, RTR Estate Vineyard, “Good Karma”. Super pale green-white straw hue, perfectly transparent and imbued with an excess of surface shine. The nose dominated by orange glaze, floral musk, and maraschino cherry, openly inviting, little sense of place and none of the diesel or rubber stuff, it’s the old summer breeze makes me feel fine. Medium-bodied yet leaning towards lighter, after the mouth entry it dissolves quickly and gracefully. As in the nose tangerine and mandarin orange the cornerstone. Rose petal and honey another building block. The pear, apricot, cherry fruit toothsome yet know when to exit the stage. Acidity lacking, yet clean enough finish. This is a charity bottling and I have to suspect that it was fashioned to be likable to a broad audience. Or they hate the charity. (Composite Cork: Xpür)
2021 Red Tail Ridge Teroldego, Finger Lakes, RTR Estate Vineyard. Light violet to ruby, soft glow, more or less the same as many a wine. When you pop the cork a blast of buttered popcorn smacks you hrad, releases into pickle brine, dill nuances, wet green grass, leather, the fruit seems mixed red but it really struggles to find space. Light-bodied, close to angular, both tannin and acidity shove you about. While the winery website says aged for 17 months in neutral French barrique, tastes more like newly toasted oak. The cherry, raspberry fruit most obvious through the mouth entry. Green pepper, leather and leaf pile smoke. 2021 was supposed to have been a difficult vintage so maybe this isn’t really representative. In any event I just can’t get past the buttery oak (FWIW it went through full malo).
2022 Glen Manor Petit Manseng, Virginia (no AVA). Glowing yellow with a strong green tint, highly buffed shine, holds your gaze nicely. Fruit cocktail nose of pineapple, peach, cherry, melon fruit, pushes fruit bomb territory, vaguely smoky, more floral with time, basically fruit. Close to full-bodied, luckily has the acidity to carry it as here it is a fruit bomb. Data says 5.2% residual sugar and that seems low. But it’s not anywhere near dessert wine. Its tropical nature brings tart bite. Has a creaminess and overall soft texture. You need a hose to wash it out of your mouth at the finish. This is a match for super spicy food or a sipper when you don’t want to think, just bathe in fruit. Which at least for me does happen. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2005 Clos Floridene Bordeaux, Graves. Color has matured to a soft amber orange, has gained a block-like solidity, still has some shine left. Candied orange peel, caramel, witch hazel, pie crust take the nose in multiple directions, poached peach and apricot fruit scents, when it warms more smokiness and minerality get teased out. Full-bodied, plenty of flesh on the bones, the oak has now receded enough that the mixed orchard fruit shows more cleanly and the acidity becomes more noticeable. Kind of has a lanolin, wet wool aspect which conjures thoughts of Chenin Blanc, arguably not that far off from Sémillon when well-aged. Orange citrus shines best at the finish. Lingering breadiness at the end but to me still clean enough. My previous bottle was consumed in April 2021 and this has definitely matured past that. I like both experiences but for different reasons. 55% Sémillon, 44% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Muscadelle.
2022 Arnaud Lambert Cabernet Franc, Loire, Saumur Brézé, Clos Mazurique, “Monopole.” Basic purple to scarlet red hue, no glow nor anything to give it more “pop” than it should have, clean. Nose requires some time to release the farts and barnyard floor, after that it’s fine, mixed berry fruit, potpourri and something close to medicinal, not getting any bell pepper at all. Hard to judge but calling it light-bodied, agreeable supporting acidity yet with a round and pliable mouth feel. The fruit isn’t sweet but expresses nice ripeness. Here there is a rising bell pepper. But I don’t find it a main component. Floral again with nutmeg, clove type baking spices. Meanders through an extended finish. My only previous experience with this bottling is the 2020 and this is more polished. Credible table wine, wouldn’t age it. (Composite Cork)
1999 Conterno Fantino Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Barolo, Vigna del Gris. If black can be washed out that’s what the core looks like, broad rust red to yellow rims, hues betray its age yet it shines and has very good clarity. The nose comes at you first with peanut shells, barn floor and tar but given time traditional dried rose petals and licorice come through, a medicinal cleansing sensation, maraschino cherry, there’s plenty of power and staying power here. Medium-bodied, leaving an impression of shed weight. The tannin has finally settled into an agreeable state with echoes of former force. The fruit sweeter than the nose suggested. Tar, tobacco, orange peel round it out, no overreaching. The oak not significant to me, at this juncture probably more wood tannin than flavor. Probably could have opened this earlier but very pleased with it now.
2010 Castello di Neive Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Barbaresco, Albesani Santo Stefano. Crystal clear and resplendent in the glass, brick to clay red fading to a hint of yellow, visually doesn’t betray all that much age. A focused beam of licorice and raspberry to cherry fruit zips through the nose, however, on the whole it’s more flat than lifting, orange reduction, something close to menthol, clean and pure. Light-bodied, moves sleekly while leaving an imprint behind. Good concentration in the cherry, strawberry fruit, not too sweet. Perhaps stony but, again, clean is the guiding principle and there’s minimal earth or leather accents. Tactful, if not gentle, finish. To me more of a sipping wine than food wine. You wouldn’t want anything to upset the internal harmony.
2019 Praesidium Abruzzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, “Riserva.” Impenetrable, as dark as purple can get without turning black, razor thin blood red rims, not clarified nor filtered but who can tell. As expected there is barnyard funk initially in the nose, swirling and air bring out plum/prune fruit, cocoa and floral dew, overall it’s thick like paste. Full-bodied and gushes all around, then the tannin starts hoovering up the liquid. Still, that same plum and cherry fruit has considerable force. Kind of tastes like those Terry’s orange shaped chocolates, strong citrus infusion. Feels like the earthiness would come out more with added bottle time. Tangy finish. Never had this producer before and it’s made a positive impression. Not saying it’s at the level of Valentini but for $30 for a Riserva no complaints. Has upside.
2023 Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Langhe. Garnet-purple, consistent core to rim, deep with perfectly nice clarity. Fruity nose of strawberry, blueberry, blackberry fruit, ginger root, candied orange peel, maybe, just maybe some tar, insofar as it applies to this category of wine it’s a fruit bomb. Medium-bodied, not that tannic, has a caramel aspect that is out of place. Fruit more sour here, same general profile, perhaps cranberry too. Sweet start to finish, no drying up at the finish. OK, maybe the lightest astringency. This is generally recognizable as Nebbiolo but to me, just. Global warming, who the hell knows. This is tasty as things go, nothing close to a traditional entry level Nebbiolo. Price is still right even as the price of the basic Barbaresco gets stoopid.
2023 Tiberio Pecorino, Abruzzi, Colline Pescaresi. The darkness of the golden color gives it depth in the glass, not quite dull, just full. Quite spicy nose, orange and lemon zest, pineapple, guava type fruit scents, momentary herbaceous bursts, sea salt, not angular but no soft corners either. Full-bodied and on the bottom heavy side, difficult to get it moving. Acidity moderate, feels like it adds more bite to the fruit than trim up things. Albeit there’s more peach and apple here too. Can be alternately nutty or briny. Square finish with a citrus twist. Haven’t previously had too many Pecorino from Tiberio, this was underwhelming.
2021 Poderi Colla Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Nebbiolo d’Alba, “Drago”. Light violet to cough syrup red, transparent, while light the coloration pushes fully into the rims. Bright candied cherry, raspberry fruit scents, burst of earth and grass, orange peel, anise, very nice purity. Light-bodied with a good deal of firmness for its weight. And tannic bite. That said, the fruit sparks things well and it doesn’t come off as too dry or offputting. The orange zest and licorice tick up a few solid notches. Tough finish, in the right way. This isn’t super tough but it isn’t easy drinking. Kind of a nice throwback inexpensive food wine. Composite Cork: Diam10)
2022 Scions of Sinai Pinotage, Stellenbosch, “Atlantikas Maritime Bushvines”. Minor purple darkening at the core, mostly red dirt and brick hues, light and transparent. The typical leathery, earthy notes ably met by candied strawberry scents and white grapefruit zest, quite open and breezy. Light-bodied, matches up with the nose in demeanor. Acidity on the blunt side but ever present. Toothsome strawberry, raspberry fruit. Grapefruit stronger here. Clean enough that you almost forget it’s Pinotage, hah. More savory through the finish. Smooth drinker even with a hint of volatility. The three of you who like Pinotage should give it a whirl. (Composite Cork)
2021 Itxas Harri Navarra, Vino de la Tierra Tres Riberas, “Beltza.” Dusky purple core, more of a pinkish scarlet than ruby, rims sort of washed out, maybe gauzy. Nose mixes volcanic soil, leather with fresh rhubarb, strawberry fruit, there’s smoky “burnt” notes flitting about, sand and gravel. Light-bodied, round and soft through the mouth entry and then sheds weight steadily. More citrus tones here, the red fruit sappy throughout. Don’t find it particularly tannic nor acidic but would lean towards the former. The more you sip it the sweeter it seems, accrues on the tongue. What’s interesting here is that it does connote a sense of place or terroir while still keeping the spotlight on the fruit. Not a hardcore geek wine but something they’d drink with those who are not geeky. 50% Garnacha, 50% Tempranillo. (Screwcap)
2019 Lectores Vini Priorat, “Classic.” Seamless purple to sunset red, rich coloration that doesn’t go too far, good shine, attractive. Llicorella makes me think of licorice so I smell that, density in the mixed berry scents, leather and wild scrub, light menthol, no lift, makes a clenched fist. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied plus, as in the nose it moves at a crawl. Fruit well layered, not too sweet, supplemented by floral musk and orange peel. Tannin throws a muffling blanket over the whole. Pushes then retreats from herbaceousness. Getting something like caramel. It has its flaws but I hesitate to call it “modern.” Having been to Priorat I will allow myself to romanticize that this is a wine a “camperol” would drink. 70% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 5% unspecified other.
