An “early admirer”, “before other critics caught on”??? You can’t possibly be serious, can you? You do know we’re talking about a producer that has been around and had acquired a serious reputation in his actual country of origin (people there know a thing or two about wine, btw, otherwise Antonio would have far less “to write home about”…) quite a while ago, to put it mildly, right? What do you read? How long have you been around Italian wines for?
Mauro Mascarello had a reputation going way back…mostly among serious Barolo lovers. I am pretty sure I first learned about these wines in the Wasserman books, which remain reference-points to this day. Sheldon and Pauline Wasserman spoke glowingly of the wines. After that, I am not sure what happened. Someone here can probably fill in the blanks. I lived in Italy between 2000-2003. Gambero Rosso was THE guide in Italy. Maybe someone here has time to go back and list all the Tre Bicchieri winners from that era. I think people might be shocked to see how different the producers names are from today! Look back at the RP ratings from that time period. Twenty years ago you could go to the cantina and buy as much wine as you wanted. Monprivato was something like 30 euros. In 2008 or 2009 Mauro Mascarello came to NYC with a vertical he wanted to pour for me. Wines back to 1961. I was so embarrassed by the amount of wine being opened just for me that I insisted on inviting a number of sommeliers to the tasting. It was at Veritas. When I started Piedmont Report and then moved over to The Wine Advocate, that’s when these wines started getting high scores and tons of visibility on a large scale. And that is also when the Italian press started to pay attention. Not just to Mascarello, but to more traditionally made wines in general, which they had largely and shockingly neglected for many years. No attempt to rewrite history can change the facts.
Sure… I think your narrative is a bit skewed and perhaps, if understandably, slightly myopic, but I get your meaning. RP ratings? Gambero Rosso? You kidding? More germane and serious ITALIAN reference points, anyone? I really think we’re talking at cross purposes here. Besides, what need is there really for you to go on claiming due diligence, justifying yourself or demonstrating your credentials? They are pretty well-established in terms of what you do and… well, caveat emptor . Fact is, there are, conceivably, I hope, other people around whose views about Italian wines are as well-founded as your own and possibly better. They, including me, happen to sometimes, often, whatever, disagree with you, at times substantially. What’s the problem?
“No attempt to rewrite history can change the facts”? Eh? Ground control to Major Tom…
Yes, in the late 90s and early 2000s, Gambero Rosso leaned very strongly toward modern-style producers. Very few traditional producers ever won tre bicchieri ratings in those days. Giacosa and Bartolo Mascarello were exceptions, as I recall. The modernist leaning was strange given that Slow Food, which celebrates tradition, was a co-sponsor of the ratings in those days, and I heard that there was push-back over Gambero Rosso’s preferences. (I have the guides from that period, but not where I am now. I’ll try to dig them out.)
John, Gambero Rosso was a commercially oriented consumers’ guide, then as now. People who knew their wine in Italy didn’t really take it that seriously.
I think we had different starting points, with my main point and assumption (based on the Langhe nebbiolo) of being cautious about 2017 as a vintage. And agree with you that there will be bottles worth having and enjoyed of course. It’s Nebbiolo after all, one of few grapes with potential to transform and surprise
Personally I find Antonio’s vintage reports to be outstanding in depth and considerations in the analysis, not sure who else provides more useful insight (Masnaghetti is a treasure)? Please share.
Reading through the less than friendly remarks I am not sure if I missed something. What I can say though is that it takes quite a bit of character to put score down an icon wine/winemaker. Not the easiest choice for sure and from reading here not done lightly.
I’ve been a subscriber to Vinous for a few years now and I’ve found the coverage to be deep, relevant, useful and meaningful, especially for Italy. Is there another source for reviews of Italian wine that go as far or wide?
Sure I don’t agree with every review, but they are always helpful.
Thank you, Trvtko C for your enlightened response. Yes , I meant “early admirer”, but that refers to the English language mainstream wine critics. I didn’t read Italian or have access to those Italian reviews, but clearly Antonio understood and admired the earlier history of this venerable domaine and their great wines. Please tell
me what highly visible critics in America were praising these wines 15 or so
years ago.
I personally bought some ‘97 Ca d’Morissio and several vintages of Monprivato, especially the 1999 ( when no Ca d’M was produced, based on Antonio’s reviews.
I respectfully disagree . Cernilli ( now at doctor wine ) was a very important figure in italian wine and even experts paid a lot of attention to him then .
I don’t think Antonio’s ability are in question . I don’t wanna speculate on why and how sometimes certain producers are put purposely in a bad light. I think we pay too much attention on what these critics are sayin and while they are often right when they are wrong people have the right the use their voice.its unfortunate that the wine in question is scarce and expensive but I really struggle with Antonio’s reasoning and thats my opinion . Monica’s review of ester canale for me is another debatable one to say the least . These guys have the ability to change ones producers life at least economically they can make mistakes , following them blindly for me it’s just wrong .
I haven’t had the wines in question, can’t add much to that. Yes, think his ability was on question
Personally I don’t pay too much attention to one specific critics scores (try to take an aggregated approach in that case), I rather read the impression and I think that many times says enough. I’m with you there Lorenzo, once you built up enough confidence and experience the scores doesn’t add that much (ball park direction might still).
The one critic I look as much to the scores from is Julia Harding (JR), she is mostly spot on in descriptions and scores, have the feeling she really taste with an open mind. Only issue is that she is not writing enough, in addition to not covering Italian wines
Exactly ! What I love about these type of forums is that there are plenty of either professionals or wine lovers that can have their own opinions and can disagree with what the critics write
After all, If you have enough knowledge and experience I rather listen to someone who quietly consumed the bottle in question that someone who had 167 wines beforehand
This is an incorrect and irresponsible statement. If you want to make it, how about posting your full, real name? I don’t put anyone purposely in a bad light. When the wines are good they are good, when they aren’t they aren’t. Pedigree, price, expectation etc are irrelevant. The same article that has the 2012 Ca review that bothers some people has a glowing review for the 2016 Perno that is conveniently omitted from this discussion.
It is true that some critics’ opinions have financial implications. Serious critics take that seriously. Very seriously. That’s why we taste, re taste and taste again. It is a double edged sword. When my review of the 2007 Monprivato came out, the winery sold out of that wine in the fastest time ever.
As for the number of wines tasted, each person is different. Just because I can’t bench press the same weight as someone else does not mean what they can do is impossible. The critic who did the biggest Barolo tastings that I know of was Steve Tanzer. Two vintages at a time, because that was how his coverage was set up. I don’t know how he did it. I couldn’t do it, and if I could, I wouldn’t want to. Look back at his notes. They are almost always spot on.
There is no joy in writing a negative review. I would much rather tell our readers how great things are. These are small, family-run estates. Over time, you get to know people’s parents, kids etc. Before I was writing about wine full-time, my NYC tasting group wanted to organize a vertical of Monprivato and other Mascarello Barolo. We did it at my first apartment on the Upper East Side, and I invited Mauro Mascarello. I hired a private chef, we had fantastic tasting/dinner. I just write what I think. That’s it.
Antonio, mine was a general statement in that specific remark. I’m fairness it didn’t come out right so I apologize. I m not trying to point the finger at anyone’s just to make things clear . But I m entitled to my opinion .
My wife and got married in 2017. I’m in the market for a few cases with the plan to open a bottle a year as we celebrate our anniversary. Barolo holds a special place in our heart and is our go to celebratory wine. What are your thoughts on the long term (i.e. 20-30+ year) prospects of the 2017 vintage in Piedmont? Any specific producers or crus that you would recommend? Based on your report I am looking to Serralunga and/or Monforte.
. Fact is, there are, conceivably, I hope, other people around whose views about Italian wines are as well-founded as your own and possibly better. They, including me, happen to sometimes, often, whatever, disagree with you, at times substantially. What’s the problem?![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
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