There are some vintages that define a region or an appellation. Pomerol 1998 is perhaps one of the better examples of that point. And for me, 1998 and 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape are the best of class for Southern Rhone. These are vintages that sort of straddle the ascendency of Parker and predate the warming trends we have been seeing this past decade. I no longer buy as much CDP as a result, but when I do, I stick to classic producers and avoid the so-called ripe years.
This 1998 VT is just gorgeous. A classic CDP. Quite aromatic, showing a veritable Provençal spice rack, dried red fruits and tobacco leaf. The palate is seamless, fully integrated, with warm red to dark fruits, dry earthy ground cover, spices and pepper, and a hint of citrus on the backend. Medium weight with soft structure at this age. A wine that is perfectly at apogee, and should hold this peak for quite some time. A stellar effort.
Not a textbook pairing, but gosh was this wonderful with a traditional Irish meal that my mom made for us tonight. We also had
Some Bordeaux, but this VT stole the show.
I actually consider 1998 the first year marking the new era in CdP. Many great wines were made. VT, Pegau, Charvin, Vieux Donjon (at that time a pre-Cambie wine). But others that got great scores died early or didn’t age well. I’ve always preferred 99 and 01. Of course, climate change started really hitting the area after 04 (03 was more a freak) and then even more in the mid teens. But, I remember CdP in the eighties, and it wasn’t like anything produced in the 21st century.
I know a lot less about Bordeaux in the 21st century. I love the wines from the 80s when I can get my hands on them, but I don’t know if that’s not just a matter of their being properly aged. I have less sense of climate change having turned the place upside down. Maybe it too longer there?
Ha, the Bordeaux rules on the allowable cepage has even changed to allow for more heat-tolerant grapes to be added into the mix! I will concede that you feel the heat differential more in Southern Rhone, But I have always attributed that to Grenache needing to ripen at higher levels and being more prone to exhibit heat and pepper spice.
I’m sorry, I should have said until more recently. I have heard the talk about allowing different grapes, but not until recently. I do agree that it is more noticeable in the Rhone because it’s always having been a relatively riper wine made the changes seem less disruptive. The water was already warm in that pot, so the frogs were lulled to sleep before they even thought to jump out.
I have a few of these bought at auction for only a few bucks more than current release. VT are so good on so many levels, and never heavy.
And corned beef, my wife’s favourite winter fare. Gotta have the mustard sauce though!
Agreed. Vine management, particularly canopy, was critical in ‘98. On release, there were many charming, rather lush wines but roasted flavors developed on a few. I recall Beaucastel getting a tad OTT.
I like that idea. We grow horseradish here and you just can’t beat the piquancy of the real thing! My first inclination though is to serve it with grilled steaks, but will give this a go, when the temps get back to more of an autumnal range!
Back to the wine, had a 15 recently that was just so lovely and composed. These wines drink well across a long time span.
