A testament to Gruner, screw caps, or both? TN- 2012 Biohof Pratsch Gruner Veltliner

I had an interesting wine that, while quite humble, I think would be of interest here. My local shop found this in the back, and given that it’s an 11 yr old entry level Gruner, marked it down from $20 to $4.99. This is the sort of wine that I would expect is intended for consumption within a few years, and yet, it was fantastic! I did have a 29 yr old Gruner once that was wonderful, but I usually don’t think of it as a varietal that is known for aging. So I’m not sure if this wine is a testament to the ageability of Gruner or the benefits of screw cap. Probably both. Anyway, here is my TN:

I knew this was a winner from the moment I opened it. Pale straw and little green in the glass. On the nose: super fresh white flowers, grapefruit flesh, grapefruit pith, fresh lemons, and chalky white stones. It smells so refreshing. In the mouth, the wine is fresh, lively, very high in acid, and has a slight prickle of residual CO2 that I don’t mind at all. Flavors of lime, underripe pear, very floral/aromatic, and a touch of pyrazine greenness. It is super clean and fresh, like a crisp cold stream. And while I haven’t had a young version, I do think there are some deeper subtle caramelly complexities that the wine has gained from age. My bet is that this is evolving in a positive direction despite its humble label and that it will easily last to 15 years old and be the better for it. What a great surprise. If only I could find another…



GV ages extremely well. @Otto_Forsberg had tasting notes on aged Grüner sometime in the last year.

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What a cool experience and thanks for posting it. Great use of five bucks, as well!

Re: aging Gruner…It’s a variety that ages really well, but to me it also ages glacially—both under screwcap and cork, so it’s definitely the grape, not the closure. I’ve had great luck with aging even basic wines from Brundlmayer and Gobelsburg, and the single-vineyard wines are tremendous with some serious bottle age. Ten years is (for me) when you start to notice secondary notes come through, and I’m holding my “more serious” examples for ~15 years before even starting to get into them.

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For ageable domestic gruners, check out FiddleHead Cellars in the Sta Rita Hills - her gruner from the Fiddlestix Vineyard is one of the best domestics I’ve had.

Cheers

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I’ve still got some late 1990s Brundlmayer Grüner Veltliner Alte Reben bottles, and they have always been fantastic. Had a 1997 last year that was great.

Austrian Grüner Veltliner can age fantastic when made properly … 13% alc. showes this has been harvested ripe and 2012 was a very good vintage with low yields … so why shouldn 't it be good

Had a 2016 Carlisle GV last night and it was delicious.