I would probably avoid 1985 Lynch Bages 1985. Two very different bottlings, one superb, one so green it is undrinkable, and I don’t mind a bit of green. The other one that is problematic is the 1985 Heitz Martha’s which has a good deal of bottle variation.
We did a 1985 California versus Bordeaux tasting. Here are the notes:
Chateau Lynch Bages
A Jekyll and Hyde wine, when it is good, it is very, very good…This one, luckily, was very, very good.
A really old fashioned claret, just ripe, offering a mélange of dark and red fruits, with an underlay of green herb. Gorgeous wine; it suffered a little from being the first wine, and as I kept going back to the glass, I kept raising the score. At its apogee, but no hurry to drink it. 95 points
Shafer Hillside Select
Very ripe bordering on overripeness. Texture was heavy, soft and quite rich, it was a little dull on the palate. Lacked definition, but a pleasant enough wine. 87
Chateau Cheval Blanc
Cheval 1985 has always slipped under the radar, and yet ultimately has proven to be the best wine made by the estate in the 1980s. And on the night, it was for me, also the best wine there. The aromatic complexity bordered on overload, harness leather, cigar and cedar alongside the cool black fruit. On the palate, it was profound, easy layers of flavor and extraordinary length. A magnificent wine. 98
Chateau Mouton Rothschild
This vied with the Lynch as my second favorite Bordeaux of the night. A really superb wine with great complex flavors, of dark fruit, licorice, lavender and the slight earthy mushroom flavors of a wine approaching full maturity. Great finish-beautiful 95 points
Groth Reserve
An interesting pairing, served with the Mouton. This wine, when it was first released proved to be another landmark for California, garnering Parker’s first ever 100 point score for the region It showed well, still young and heavy with lush, dark fruit. Not much complexity to the wine, and while it has softened, it has not changed much as it has matured. 92
Phelps Eisele
From one of the finest vineyards in Napa; this is an extraordinary wine. Rich, full bodied yet still retaining a lightness and an energy. Showed beautifully, along with Ridge the most complex of the California wines. 95
Ridge Monte Bello
Ridges of this era are very distinctive, and a wine that is quite easy to guess blind. It has a particularity of iodine and oyster shell, backed by fruit and wood smoke. My favorite California wine of the night, and so good, I was on the net the following day to secure a few more bottles. 96
Chateau La Mission Haut Brion
From magnum. This was not quite fully mature, but still showed the sexy character which one associates with top flight Graves: tobacco, cedar and brick dust. Also, the only the wine that could have used another few years. 94
Chateau Montrose
A tale of two bottles; the first lovely, the second (from the same case) far more evolved and showing signs of being a little tired. The better bottle was rich, with plenty of spicy dark fruit, a creamy seamless wine on the palate with a lovely finish 94
Stags Leap Cask 23
Almost certainly the best wine made at Stag’s Leap. A very impressive showing, plenty of chocolaty fruit, cedar, an overlay of oak, the tannins still plentiful but beginning to integrate beautifully into the wine. 95
Chateau Trotanoy
Also served from magnum, and the first time I have tasted this vintage of Trotanoy. I have to say, I had hoped for more, It was a perfectly pleasant wine, would have graced most dinner tables, but it lacked concentration and seemed to be missing its final gear. What it did show was some nice cherry fruit, some earth and a floral underlay. 87